neonsurge Posted August 8, 2006 Report Share Posted August 8, 2006 I'm about to replace the standard kill/lights switch block on my bike with a Yamaha-type 2-wire kill switch, but can't for the life of me remember how to wire it up (apart from the earth connection!). I'm a bit of an electrical disaster area so the last time I did this I wrote everything down and drew diagrams etc.... predicatably, I've lost that piece of paper now. I'd like to remove all of the superfluous lighting gubbins while I'm at it so if anyone can remind me what needs to be disconnected where and what needs to be wired to what, I'd appreciate it. BTW, I eventually managed to get that nasty standard switch unit working semi-reliably by disassembling it, enlarging the holes that the buttons go through slightly with a needle file (to eliminate the sticking problem), and sealing all of the contents in place with silicon. Thing is, I want (need!) a bar pad so the standard unit's got to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the addict Posted August 8, 2006 Report Share Posted August 8, 2006 (edited) Neon, I ve still got the standard button on and the bar pad, not had any problems with it getting in the way Edited August 8, 2006 by Betarev3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fordson major Posted August 8, 2006 Report Share Posted August 8, 2006 The standard kill switch/lightblock does make it hard to put the barpad on. My killswitch isn't too bad but the lights have completely stopped working now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neonsurge Posted August 8, 2006 Author Report Share Posted August 8, 2006 Well I'd sure like to know how you managed to get the bar pad on 'cos I can't bloody do it! Maybe thinner foam is required... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fordson major Posted August 8, 2006 Report Share Posted August 8, 2006 Nope, just shove part of the inner foam and outer pad through (under the fork brace) then pull through from t'other side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the addict Posted August 8, 2006 Report Share Posted August 8, 2006 Neon, you can see the bar pad and switch on the pic mate, just put the foam on and roll the cover around, works fine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neonsurge Posted August 8, 2006 Author Report Share Posted August 8, 2006 OK, OK I believe y'all. Just me being an eejit as usual. Anyway: about this kill switch wiring... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pa. Posted August 9, 2006 Report Share Posted August 9, 2006 One wire from your new kill switch is attached to the frame. You could use the Triple Clamps but then you are relying on getting an electrical connection through the grease and bearings in the Headstem. The other wire joins into the wire running to the coil. This should be normally Black and may have a white trace. I will check this tonight. You should be able to find the wire running to there currently and just unplug that wire and connect the new wire. No the major problem. The Bar Pad is easy to fit. 1. Loosen the bolt from one side of the cross brace. 2. Remove the bolt from the other end of the cross brace. 3. Tilt cross brace bar up. 4. Slid cover over cross brace. 5. Replace cross brace back into holder and replace bolt. 6. Tighten other bolt. 7. Have a beer and wonder why you couldn't figure this one out. Some people shouldn't be let near spanners. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neonsurge Posted August 9, 2006 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2006 Y'know I really wish I hadn't mentioned the bar pad thing! My main reason for wanting to do this is the unreliability of the standard switch unit, honest! 7. Have a beer and wonder why you couldn't figure this one out. Some people shouldn't be let near spanners. Ain't that the sad truth Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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