Jump to content

Sherco 200 Clutch Dragging


social climber
 Share

Recommended Posts

A friend of mine recently bought a 2002 sherco 200. On our last outing he binned it and lost all the pressure in the clutch. We got it home and tightened everything up and re-bled several times so there is absolutely no air in there, but the clutch still drags significantly. Fully in, the bike still creeps forward. We adjusted at the lever and still no good.

I think there were new clutch plates in just before he bought it, so do you think these need bedded in? or is there a shim or something missing at the actuator end?

help please.....

Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

HI social climber

we have a 2002 sherco 200 and thats the same,but only when it's been stood a while, ie overnight we have tried everything short of changing the clutch,we found starting the bike let it warm up,lift the back wheel put it into gear,go through all the gears to 4th then pull and release the clutch lever a few times and this stops the drag also the oil we use is very light pj1 clutch tuner in all the our bikes except the sherco 290(motul)

i hope this helps

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

I've got the same problem with my 2003 290. The only problem was when I was showing it off to the wife (I only picked it up on Saturday, first trials bike) put it in gear, without thinking, and ended-up getting dragged around the drive by the bike much to my wife's amusement :)

Peter

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

I am on my third Sherco and they all have some clutch creep, especially cold. This is not to be confused with the Sticking of the plates after sitting a few hours (or days).

My 1.25 is the worst about creep. I inspected the plates and found some warpage in the steel plates. I asked around thinking this was abnormal and got differing responses. They appear to be stamped out of steel and there may be some warpage induced in the manufacturing process or be done that way to allow for more progressive engagement. I never did replace them as it is minimal after warmup, just a bit annoying. I need to look at some new ones I suppose.

As far as the sticking goes, always try to break loose the sticking plates by placing the bike in gear and rocking the bike back and forth with the clutch in to release them before starting the bike and putting in gear while running. The alternitive is to be sure the bike is pointed at the softest and cheapist thing possible when placing into gear immediatly after startup, as you may run into it!

After sitting about a month during our summer break here in Texas, (it's Hot), the clutch on my 2.9 would not release at all until it finally broke loose after about five minutes of riding, even after putting the front wheel against a tree and about killing myself with the bike wanting to climb the tree! It finally unstuck, bingo!

Cheers! :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

Thanks guys....... just seems very odd that a bike in such great shape would have such a crap clutch action. It's a pain in the 'arris having to hold it on the brake with the clutch fully in, especially in a section....

but if they all do that, then who am I to argue?

Has anyone modified the clutch to prevent this though?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

Not sure you're talking about the same levels of clutch creep here. I must admit I was all GasGas before the 2004 Sherco, but mine (a year old now) has no clutch creep whatsoever.

I would say you certainly shouldn't have to put the brake on to control it.

I would put up with the tickover dropping a little in gear, but anything else must be 'sortable' surely.

Does it make any difference at all if you let the clutch bite much further out?

I probably tend to have mine biting further out as I have hands like shovels and fingers like sausages.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 
 
 
none of our other sherco's do it 04-290,03-290,02-250 just the 02-200 is the only one that we have had any trouble with the clutch  :)

Oy Billy two sheds - you're just showing off now ;)

only one big shed ,me and my mates keep our bikes with his,

you very funny guy i kill you last

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

Landrover, it only takes a few seconds(4 screws) to take the clutch cover off with the bike on its side and ck to see if the main clutch(pressure)plate is moving the same distance as the other bikes when the lever is pulled in, around .050 travel as I recall. That will tell you if the hydrolics are OK.

Next pull the six bolts with springs and the clutch plates will come right out. You may need to use a bent paper clip or something to hook the edges and pull them out.

Check them for warpage on a flat surface. My metal ones were the ones that were warped on the 1.25, the fibre plates were fine.

Maybe Ishy or someone knows for sure how they look when new as I am still curious.

I am sure Ryan Young would know, but I have been too lazy to call and ask as mine is not that bad.

Cheers! :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 
  • 7 years later...

I dont know if this will help but i had a YZ 250 that done this, what i was told to do was the night before your ride out pull the clutch lever to the bars and zip tie or tape it to the bars all night. Next morning it was fine. Hope this helps :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
 Share

×
  • Create New...