Sherco
Started by Stilly, Oct 26 2010 05:44 PM
10 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 26 October 2010 - 05:44 PM
Hi all readers I need advice on what to do next I have put new friction plates in my sherco 250 04 model but it still slips in 4th gear when you give it a fist full engine oil is ipone and I cleaned the steel plates they looked ok but it still slips any ideas what to try next ???
#2
Posted 26 October 2010 - 06:33 PM
Are you sure the master and slave cylinders are not "sticking" , I know nothing of Sherdco clutches , it may be that pushrod is too long, could it be that the springs have lost thier force... Regards not starting hot could be simple as a new plug or as painfull as mains seals, best thing is to go through the relatively cheap/obvious things first, plug coils, clean and set up carb. You can be sure of plenty of help and suggestions from Sherco owners on here.
#3
Posted 26 October 2010 - 06:33 PM
check the free travel up at clutch lever, make sure its not to tight.did you change the springs they could be week.we had a 07 290 at one time ,we tried everything.in the end it was the push rod between the clutch and the slave cylinder.we removed it ground of about 1/8th of an inch refitted and it worked perfect. let me know how you get on willie.
#4
Posted 28 October 2010 - 03:23 AM
This does seem a bit unusual for the bike to slip in gears 4 and 5 with a full set of six springs fully engaged to the basket. There has been no history or reports of weak springs.
Nor reports of long pushrods really, either!
I think I might start by ckecking for gunk under the pushrod boot where it enters the master cyl to insure the piston can return fully and open the return pressure port and not apply residual pressure to the clutch. Another way to insure this would be to crack a line fitting at either master of slave and ck for a slight pressure release.
Once all pressure released off the hydro side, a quick ride of the bike (using no clutch and a push off)through the gears should tell if it really slips under load.
Nor reports of long pushrods really, either!
I think I might start by ckecking for gunk under the pushrod boot where it enters the master cyl to insure the piston can return fully and open the return pressure port and not apply residual pressure to the clutch. Another way to insure this would be to crack a line fitting at either master of slave and ck for a slight pressure release.
Once all pressure released off the hydro side, a quick ride of the bike (using no clutch and a push off)through the gears should tell if it really slips under load.
Ride it Like it was one of your old Girlfriends, If you still remember how!
#5
Posted 28 October 2010 - 12:36 PM
Try using a Non-Synthetic oil - some full Synthetics will cause clutch slip
Do you have enough free play at the clutch lever?
Do you have enough free play at the clutch lever?
#6
Posted 28 October 2010 - 06:56 PM
we have had to file down 2 push rods upto now.
#7
Posted 29 October 2010 - 03:06 AM
My 05 does the same thing. I have no pressure on the clutch plates, tried what was said up above. Never looked at the push rod. I placed washer under the clutch springs to place more pressure on the plate. This has the clutch working now.
#9
Posted 30 October 2010 - 04:33 AM
jaysktms, on 29 October 2010 - 03:06 AM, said:
My 05 does the same thing. I have no pressure on the clutch plates, tried what was said up above. Never looked at the push rod. I placed washer under the clutch springs to place more pressure on the plate. This has the clutch working now.
Yet, see in this case, if the rod was the culprit, placing any amount of pressure against the springs would not offset it, as things are limited by the length of the rod and will not move further. You kinda get back into the worn plates, weak springs , bad oil thing here I would think.
There is a fine balance here, as the removal of two springs(33% reduction of pressure) can and will cause slippage or very slow apply in the higher gears as I have tested. Which is why I have to run the thinner ATF using this -2 spring method for a light clutch. And still seems to work, yet not recommended for more more severe service. If I want rapid response in gear 4 or 5, a pop is more definate than a slip, as on the edge! Add, I just tolerate this because I have come to like the light clutch. All pref!
Ride it Like it was one of your old Girlfriends, If you still remember how!
#10
Posted 14 November 2010 - 06:38 PM
I too run -2 springs.
i noticed yesterday that it was slipping in 4th & 5th, so put them back in. No difference, so i went back to -2 !
Ive had 8 or 9 shercos over the last 10 years, and have had this problem in half of those bikes. i always just put up with it.
However, i know many people with the same problem over the years. Most were cured with the washer fix.
i noticed yesterday that it was slipping in 4th & 5th, so put them back in. No difference, so i went back to -2 !
Ive had 8 or 9 shercos over the last 10 years, and have had this problem in half of those bikes. i always just put up with it.
However, i know many people with the same problem over the years. Most were cured with the washer fix.
#11
Posted 15 December 2010 - 05:30 PM
Hi all, mine is sorted now I stripped the cylinder off cleaned it shaved a bit off the clutch rod with the dremil it runs spot on now no slipping cheers
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