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Engine Coolant Temperature Reading In Software


lotus54
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What are others seeing as a 'up to full temp' coolant temperature in the software?

I never really noticed before, but I was getting some off idle 'burbling' I've never gotten (except when the TPS needs setting) and thought perhaps it was goofed up.

I saw 130C - fan would come on and go off, no boiling or any other issues.

I didn't measure the actual coolant temp in the radiator, but it certainly seemed normal. Does it really run that hot? (I have not found anything in the manuals that state running temp yet)

Mark

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  • 4 weeks later...

I ran the bike again, checking hoses and radiator to see if they all got hot.

They did NOT!

So I got a new waterpump, installed and all is good.

It seemed to run 85-90c idling and reving on the stand. I did not check after riding more, but all seemed good.

Mark

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I had a waterpump go but diagnosing it was not easy as they don't easily come apart. In the end I narrowed it down and replaced it and then took the old one apart and the fins had worn down so it was not pumping enough coolant. A tell tale sign was small black flecks floating in the coolant which was the worn plastic fins pieces. Looks a lot like carbon blow by so can be misdiagnosed as a blown head o ring

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Hey canada280, when you had your waterpump problem was the bike over heating or the fan running all the time. I drained my coolant last week and had black small chunks and also aluminum chunks stuck inside the fins. Same bike as yours its new to me.

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Double answer.......I basically butchered my old one to get it apart but in doing so discovered that the drive gear is essentially a shrink fit on the shaft which is fine putting together but more difficult taking apart as heat around the seal is not good. Once the drive gear is off you can get at the retaining clip and take the rest apart.

When I had my issue the bike was overheating a little. When I put the new one on I noticed the outer water pump case got very very hot which did not seem normal to me. Took me a while to figure out but my 300 did not have a gasket between the pump housing and engine case, but the parts book indicated one was available. I made one and put it on and problem solved immediately. From this I believe that without the gasket the fins were rubbing on the housing inside when the pump was tightened but the gasket basically corrected this. That was 2 years ago and no problems since. Looking at new water pumps (I have 2) there is sometimes discrepancy between how far the drive gear is on the shaft, only very very small difference but possibly enough to put pressure on the shaft when tightened which I believe led to internal rubbing on the case.

I think I still have the old one if interested I will post a pic of the pieces tonight

Edited by canada280i
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