t20racerman

Hi I don't have a list, but all of the bearings, including the gearbox needle roller ones, are available from any decent bearing supplier. My local bearing shop had all the ball bearings, and an internet dealership supplied all the needle roller ones very cheaply indeed. A quick search of my email tells me I bought the following bearing: HK2020 SKF Drawn Cup Needle Roller Bearing 20x26x20" - £3.99 from Wychbearings.co.uk

Hi all I recently restored a TR77 that I got as a box of bits many years ago. It is now up and running (and road registered too!). When I first rode it, the clutch was SO heavy, and gear changing was very difficult without crashing and clonking them. I thought this was possibly just a clutch problem as it was so heavy. I took the clutch cover off and removed a plate - the outer metal clutch plate - to allow some adjustment, as the springs were already as far out as I could get them. This meant that the outer pressure plate ran on a friction plate (I ensured that it was flat and smooth first), and when I reassembled it all (again with the springs as far out as I could get them) it made the clutch a bit lighter, without any hint of slip. Now, gear changing from 1 to 3 and back is fine - ie smooth and easy. However, going to 4th and 5th and back is still very clonky. I have to pull the clutch in, wait a second or two for the revs to equalise with the box, then change - and still it crunches horribly most of the time. So, is this normal for one of these? Or is there a solution? For background info, I shimmed the crank, gearshafts and selector all to well within tolerance. I'd examined all the bits and found nothing untoward. The clutchplates are new 'Surflex' ones, and the primary chain is new too - as is every single bearing and seal. I've now done about 40 miles since the total rebuild, about half of these since my clutch mods. Could it be clutch problem, even though there is now no hint whatsoever of clutch drag? Thanks for listening Adrian

Hi all - thanks for all of the replies - especially so to dadof2 as that was just the information I was after and I was reluctant to strip the relevant bits in my freezing cold garage without knowing some values. :-) Anyway, to cut a long story short, it was an easy problem to see in the end - the end of my (new) points had snapped off! new ones ordered.... but worried that the same might happen...

Hi all I've been restoring my TR77 for 18 months after it sat in bits for 16 years. On completion it had a huge fat blue spark and started brilliantly many many times whilst I was finishing it off. Got it road registered and went for a test ride. After 12 miles of the engine running smooth as... it suddenly stopped. Problem, no spark at all. So, is there a guide anywhere of what to check, what values to expect etc? I My Clymer manual tells me that it is an electronic ignition model, but the new points and condensor I fitted suggests otherwise! I have a good meter, and understand the ignition system, but have no data or values to check against. Yes I have checked the plug! Any ideas or suggestions welcomed.

I remember looking at this when I rebuilt mine. I remember being puzzled by it and then going 'Oh, that makes sense..' Sadly, I'm struggling to remember exactly what I saw... I seem to remember that the casing bolt hole is wider than normal and allows the air to go along the side of the bolt. That's all I can remember though! Sorry. Can you post a pic to jolt my memory?

OK, thanks for that. I've done a lot of the groundwork, but need a dating form. I'll try the VMCC as suggested. :-)

Hi all My bike is ready to be registered with the DVLA - but where can I get an approved DVLA dating certificate from? There doesn't seem to be anyone or any company that I can find who'll do this. Mines a 1977 TR77. Thanks Adrian

Looks fun. Fired my Ossa up for the first time yesterday. Still not finished, but at least I know it runs. :-)

Thanks for your help guys - very useful Fired the bike up today for the first time and it ran lovely! Job not finished yet, work to do, but it was nice to fire it up. Will post photos when done. :-)

Hi all - yup, me again I just got my petrol tank back from the painters - and its oh SO nice! What a lovely paint job. The paint shop is in Ware, East Herts if you want anything painting. It's a great place :-) Anyway, I have the rubbers for the frame lugs that the front of the tank rests on, but what's at the other end? There is a rounded bracket at the back of the tank that seems to sit snug on the top frame tube, but should there be something under this? Is there supposed to be a rubber or something under the tank? Should finally have it running and fired up this week - for the first time in over 16 years. Yay! :-) Adrian

As always, thanks a lot folks. The bike is SO near being complete, there surely can't be too many more questions from me.... can there??

Hi again Re the Ossa clutch - how far down should the springs go, and what do you use in the holes in the end of the threaded adjuster pegs? Is just wiring them up OK? Also, what is this bit? I'm guessing from the bolt length it fits on the timing cover casing - the top bolt by the clutch arm? If so, why? If not - where and why? This has got me puzzled I must say. Thanks Adrian

I'm not sure about that. I've no experience whatsoever of these bikes. I have heard though that you should drop the forks through the yokes, but until you reminded me, I'd forgotten that. I'd better drop them through a bit! :-)

Thanks. The Suzuki racer is a 1967 Suzuki T20 250cc bike. I've raced it for about 10 years and won a few Championships on it too! You can read about my T20 Suzuki's (both a Road and a Race bike) at www.t20suzuki.com This site is old-school and dated now, but has lots of info if you have one of these bikes. :-) Here's me racing it at Redgate corner, Donington Park:

Hi all Thanks for your help so far with my TR77 restoration. Today I got the top end on, the timing done, a spark, and most of the parts left ready to bolt on (waiting for a pushrod oilseal and the paintwork to come back). I'm sure that I'll be asking for more help, but here is the bike as of tonight. :-)