Replaced the rad on my 06 with an 02 , the thermostat is now mounted in the top hose as the older rads did not have them integrated thermostats. I've connected one connector on the thermostat to yellow wire from the small plastic box (dc convertor?) The other connector on thermostat goes to earth. Is this correct? It seem to work o.k. But the fan runs anti clockwise looking from the back - so is drawing air through the rad rather than blowing onto it. Again is this correct?
I've not noticed which way it ran before swapping it over.
I have blown out jets and there is fuel getting into bowl as it p****s out the bottom if I loosen the bolt on bottom of bowl. Haven't checked float height yet.
The engine stopped quite suddenly - didn't splutter and die. There is no evidence it seized though.
What's confusing is if I remove plug and spray ether direct into chamber it still won't even splutter - nothing.
I will check the reeds shortly. Also I can get hold of spare carb to try to rule that out.
Had a prang at weekend ,bike was upside down in bush with throttle pinned. It stopped suddenly before I could kill the engine.
Retrieved from bush and kicked over but it would not fire. At home checked for spark etc. all o.k but won't start.
the plug remains bone dry after kicking over with choke on and throttle open. Striped and cleaned carb in case float needle was stuck. Plug still remains dry.
Removed air box and sprayed easy-start in carb inlet - not a splutter.
Then removed head and all seems o.k.
Before I dismantle further is there anything obvious I'm missing?
Could failed crank case seals leak fuel /ether from before it reaches the chamber via transfer ports?
The fork on my 2008 has a thin insert in the hole the axle goes through on the disc side. The insert sits slightly proud of inside face of the fork. Is this right or should it be flush with the face of the fork?
Is the insert meant to be pushed against the face of the bearing when the axle is tightened ? Mine appears to be seized in the fork.
I can get a brake by back bleeding with a syringe but after a few minutes it fades and I'm back to square one !
Curiously to get any pressure, I have to unbolt the m/cylinder and bleed with it as near to upside down as I can get it. Without doing so I get nothing at all.
I've tried a different m/cylinder but with the same result.
Could it be the seals in the caliper?
Any sugestions ?
Also as you can't get replacement seal kits the AJP m/cylinder what option are there for replacements ?
I am new to the sport and managed to pick up a sherco 290 and a gas gas 280 for cheap. They're both in a bit of a state so I'm considering starting again with a bit of a newer bike. I like the look of scorpa, I especially appreciate the linkage-less back end.
The thing which is putting me off a bit though, is that there don't seem to be as many people carrying parts compared with Sherco.
What's it like owning a Scorpa in the UK? Is it an additional ballache if something goes wrong?
Cheers!
Ive also just bought a Scorpa - I checked first and spares/advice is easily available from Birkett Motorsports.
I had an o2 280 and had no problems with it, but even then I was an old fart with a high degree of mechanical sympathy. If this bike had been in continuous use any bugs would've been sorted by now, but one with only 10 hours on it could still be a ticking bomb. Only difference between now and 2002 is the availability of second hand parts, so if you're good with the spanners yourself it might be worth taking a chance.
Any views on the 2006 ?
I'm thinking of buying - above all I want reliabilty
My 2002's engine is scrap (cracked cases) - assuming a new engine or c/case are too expensive, I'm considering buying another TXT pro, so I'd have complete bike for spares.
So what is the latest model I can get before GG made fundemental changes?
I did over time split the case and replace the gasket . It stopped the leak , I overhauled the engine so put new case gasket on, But as a get me through i used arldite . Two compounds you mix togther like paste and it dries like metal. might just get a bit in to seal it up.
i can send you some for free as i get kits from work for nowt.
might be worth a try
let me know
regards dave
Thanks for the reply - I'll give araldite a go or possibly try working a gasket sealer ( blue hermatite) into the joint.
2002 Gasgas Txt 250
in Gas Gas
Posted
I think the 2002 model had magnesium cases which can suffer from corrosion.
I had one and the cases cracked - I believe the later models do not have the same issue.