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mccarro

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Posts posted by mccarro
 
 
  1. Replaced the rad on my 06 with an 02 , the thermostat is now mounted in the top hose as the older rads did not have them integrated thermostats. I've connected one connector on the thermostat to yellow wire from the small plastic box (dc convertor?) The other connector on thermostat goes to earth. Is this correct? It seem to work o.k. But the fan runs anti clockwise looking from the back - so is drawing air through the rad rather than blowing onto it. Again is this correct?

    I've not noticed which way it ran before swapping it over.

    Any advice welcome

  2. My txt pro has a small leak , I've removed the rad But can't see exactly where it s coming from .

    are the liquid weld products reliable or would it be safer to replace the rad?

    I've just had a top end rebuild and don't want to risk knackering the barrel and piston.

  3. Thanks for replies

    I have blown out jets and there is fuel getting into bowl as it p****s out the bottom if I loosen the bolt on bottom of bowl. Haven't checked float height yet.

    The engine stopped quite suddenly - didn't splutter and die. There is no evidence it seized though.

    What's confusing is if I remove plug and spray ether direct into chamber it still won't even splutter - nothing.

    I will check the reeds shortly. Also I can get hold of spare carb to try to rule that out.

    Could the timing have slipped ?

    Thanks

  4. Had a prang at weekend ,bike was upside down in bush with throttle pinned. It stopped suddenly before I could kill the engine.

    Retrieved from bush and kicked over but it would not fire. At home checked for spark etc. all o.k but won't start.

    the plug remains bone dry after kicking over with choke on and throttle open. Striped and cleaned carb in case float needle was stuck. Plug still remains dry.

    Removed air box and sprayed easy-start in carb inlet - not a splutter.

    Then removed head and all seems o.k.

    Before I dismantle further is there anything obvious I'm missing?

    Could failed crank case seals leak fuel /ether from before it reaches the chamber via transfer ports?

    I'm no 2 stroke expert .

    Any suggestions welcome

  5. The fork on my 2008 has a thin insert in the hole the axle goes through on the disc side. The insert sits slightly proud of inside face of the fork. Is this right or should it be flush with the face of the fork?

    Is the insert meant to be pushed against the face of the bearing when the axle is tightened ? Mine appears to be seized in the fork.

    Any advice welcome

  6. "is there any external leaks at all?

    when u lose pedal pressure does the level drop in the reservoir? "

    No leaks thats I can detect and the level doesn't drop. I tried again last night with the cap off and the same result

    It takes about 5 - 10 pushes on the brake pedal to go from solid resistance to nothing.

    Does anyone know where to get AJP M/C kits in the UK ?

    Cheers

  7. I can get a brake by back bleeding with a syringe but after a few minutes it fades and I'm back to square one !

    Curiously to get any pressure, I have to unbolt the m/cylinder and bleed with it as near to upside down as I can get it. Without doing so I get nothing at all.

    I've tried a different m/cylinder but with the same result.

    Could it be the seals in the caliper?

    Any sugestions ?

    Also as you can't get replacement seal kits the AJP m/cylinder what option are there for replacements ?

    Thanks in advance for any help

  8. I've drained the oil and added 600ml of new.

    It appears to be over filled as when I remove the level check bot by the brake pedal oil comes out.

    Will it find the correct capacity if I let oil come out until it stops ?

    An earler post says not as the engine is mounted at the wrong angle for this to work.

    Any advice welcome

  9. Hello

    My Scorpa SY250 recently got a rear puncture. I was going replace the tyre but the existing tyre is a tubless type with a tube in it.

    Also the rims have been drilled and fitted with rim locks so I'm not sure what to do;

    should I replace the tyre with a tubed type - will a tubed tyre be O.K. on a tubless rim?

    Or

    should I replace with a tubless type tyre with a tube in? I assume the rim locks rule out tubeless tyres with no tube.

    Any advice would be welcome

    Cheers

  10. Afternoon all,

    I am new to the sport and managed to pick up a sherco 290 and a gas gas 280 for cheap. They're both in a bit of a state so I'm considering starting again with a bit of a newer bike. I like the look of scorpa, I especially appreciate the linkage-less back end.

    The thing which is putting me off a bit though, is that there don't seem to be as many people carrying parts compared with Sherco.

    What's it like owning a Scorpa in the UK? Is it an additional ballache if something goes wrong?

    Cheers!

    Ive also just bought a Scorpa - I checked first and spares/advice is easily available from Birkett Motorsports.

  11. I had an o2 280 and had no problems with it, but even then I was an old fart with a high degree of mechanical sympathy. If this bike had been in continuous use any bugs would've been sorted by now, but one with only 10 hours on it could still be a ticking bomb. Only difference between now and 2002 is the availability of second hand parts, so if you're good with the spanners yourself it might be worth taking a chance.

    Any views on the 2006 ?

    I'm thinking of buying - above all I want reliabilty

  12. Ello mate.

    I had a similar issue on an old rm 250 i had

    I did over time split the case and replace the gasket . It stopped the leak , I overhauled the engine so put new case gasket on, But as a get me through i used arldite . Two compounds you mix togther like paste and it dries like metal. might just get a bit in to seal it up.

    i can send you some for free as i get kits from work for nowt.

    might be worth a try

    let me know

    regards dave

    Thanks for the reply - I'll give araldite a go or possibly try working a gasket sealer ( blue hermatite) into the joint.

  13. My 2002 250 txt pro has been leaking oil fr a while from the part of the cases concealed by the swing arm bolt.

    I've removed the engine and can see the small leak in the c/case join.

    Is it possible to seal this without splitting the cases ?

    Because of where it is nothing can sit proud of the surface or it will stop the swing arm bolt sliding through.

    Any one had similar problem ?

    Thanks

 
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