scooterspal

Yikes. Should the kick start on the TLR200 be that hard to use? I have other dirt bikes... all less than 200cc I'll admit but none do I have to kill myself on. In theory, if I remove the plug, should the kick start work easy? When I got this bike a couple of weeks ago in the box with some other stuff was a broken kick start lever. Snapped in half at the shaft end. I'm hoping I don't have the same problem, but darn, this thing is very hard to start. Any suggestions?

There are only two legal and free places to ride dirt bikes in Connecticut. One, a huge state park that enters and exits into several towns and public streets and two states, requires the bike to be street legal and have a MC plate. The other, a sealed off federal dam area, requires at least an ATV plate (AKA: off road plate). In short, unless you own land, to ride in my state you need a motor vehicle registration of some sort. Which one depends on how the bike came into the country. Street legal or off road only. My understanding is that you can (possibly do not know for sure) change a registration from street legal to off road but you may not ever be able to change it back. The title would be changed for good. Either way the yearly property tax would the same since it is based on purchase price and not usage. I pay more tax for my Honda CRF100F dirt bike than I do for my Honda CH250 street scooter simply because I paid more for the dirt bike. For me, street legal would give me two great places to ride. Whether or not I would actually ride the TLR200 to get there is another matter. Both are at least an hour from my home and I'd still need to carry extra gas!

I'd be interested to know how many of you have kept your TRL200 a street legal bike? I plan on doing it for two reasons. First, so I can ride the bike legally on the street. It's seems a shame not to let folks see it and I would venture to guess it makes for a very nice ride what with the large tires and all. I have yet to ride so this is only my assumption. Second, should I change the registration from street legal to off road (ATV plate) I'm not sure the DMV (motor vehicle office) will allow me or anyone else to change it back. What do others think?

I would just run a short section of hose on each port and not connect them together. That was the answer I was looking for. Thanks! Looking at your diagram link, there are a lot of connectors and tubes. I don't really remember but the Reflex may have come with some type of vapor recovery system for smog reasons. Yes, this was originally a California bike and had the emissions system you speak of. It is now all removed. If you want a shifter with spring loaded tip, an aftermarket shifter for an XR100 will fit. I will do that... but why the linkage in the first place?

This is one mod I'd like to make. If you have any details on how please let me know.

So are you saying to remove those two hoses that run to the bottom port? What about the one at the bottom. Should that remain connected to the hose drain? ... and thanks for your very detailed reply. I'd like to go with the OEM carb at least for this season so I can get this bike on the road quickly. Here in Connecticut we have such a short one.

Hey Moto: It's not the throttle end that's the problem. The threaded metal cap that fits atop the carb slider shaft is smaller on the CRF100F. The end of the cable shroud is somehow press fitted into the cap. It is loose enough so that it can rotate around but it will not pull free of the cap. I can probably Dremel cut a notch into the top of the cap and widened it (with a screwdriver) so that the shroud pops free. That way I can use the OEM cable with the CRF100F carb. The OEM throttle cable is way thinner so that it can run under the fuel tank along the frame rail. The return spring is also way stronger in the OEM carb. Not sure if it will fit the CRF carb but it just might. BTW: If you don't mind... why go with the manual decomp system. I've heard that anyone who has tried it went back to the automatic. What do you gain this way?

Actually, I have heard of folks using a carb from a Honda CRF100F and jetting the main for 105 and the slow for 40. They are both 22mm carbs. The CRF70/80F is only 20mm I believe. In fact, I did purchase a 2007 version on Ebay to try this but the catch is the throttle cable. The two slider caps are not compatible and the cable for the CRF100F is too short to work on the TLR200. Asking around I cannot get an answer as to how they made this work. Seems this is more of an urban myth For now I'm going with the stock TLR200 carb and some tweaking. The bike ran for 4500 miles with it so it must have worked well enough at some point. Thanks for the tip about bjracing!

In the US about the only reach choice for tires for the TLR200 are the Dunlop D803's. Question: The rear tires are sold as tubeless. Is that the way they mount on the TLR200? Thanks

I hope you folks can help me get to the bottom of this whole carb issue. Here is a picture of the TLR200 carb that I have right off the Honda parts ordering web site for the USA. tlr200 carb diagram It uses a #92 main jet and the slow jet is a #38. On the right you can see the hose setup I'm speaking of. You can also see the needle is fixed with no clip positions. Now, I will add that Honda makes a carb improver kit #16012-KJ2305 for the TLR200 that comes with a new needle that does have the adjustable clip positions and a new pilot screw set and adjustment screw cap. I have just ordered that kit. BTW: There is, what they call it here in the states, a rubber snorkel inside the air box to restrict the air flow. Do you have this in the UK and if you do do you leave that in or remove it as some do over here?

I'm just a bit confused by your replies so let me explain further. My carb has what appears to be a hose port on each side at the same level and about mid height on the carb. There is a section of hose from each of these ports going down to the single port (which also has a short hose) on the bottom of the carb where all three connect into a plastic joiner. A forth hose leads from here down under the bike frame... a drain like on any other carb. Therefore, this seems to be a gas drain with three entrances. Is this correct and should this be the way it is? BTW: There is no clip adjustment for the needle on the TLR200 carb that I can see. It can be shimmed up higher with washers but there is no clip adjustment like on my other carbs. Should it remain where it is?

Hello to all. I recently took delivery on a very decent 1986 TLR 200 and I'm in the process of getting the bike back on the road. My question at the moment is how you folks have your carburetor adjusted. I did an ultrasonic cleaning removing most all the parts but the air screw. This has a cap that prevents it from being turned fully out. Currently it seems to be running way too lean and very hot engine-wise. With the seat removed, if I place my hand over some of the air vents it will pick up speed. I assume this means it is starved for gas... but I'm not sure why. I may try and clean the carb a second time and this time remove the air screw. I should also say this was a California bike originally. The second owner removed most of the emissions stuff and I finished the job last night. I don't think the jetting was any different from a non-California bike but I will have to check this. Can someone tell me what the jet #'s are for a "normal" TLR200. Also, why does this carb have two ports for the overflow gas, one on each side, and do you leave the drain tubing connected or remove it?