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About scooterspal

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    Advanced Member

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  • Bike
    Gas Gas JTR160

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  • Location
    Connecticut, USA

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  1. It was one of those riders who suggested I forget about the Honda and look for an under 200cc more "modern" trials bike. That's how I came to buy this 1996 Gas Gas 160cc. My issue right now is balance. Something you take for granted when young you lose as you get older. The reason so many older folks fall and then that's it for them. At near 65 I'd rather not become one of those. I can practice getting that back using a balance board I made.
  2. I've just purchased a very decent condition Gas Gas Contact JTR160 trials bike to try and learn the sport on. I've made some feeble attempts to learn with my Honda TRL200 but find the 4-stroke with the engine braking throws me off. I do not have that issue now with this 2 stroke. I've been a checker at a local event for the last five years so I understand the concept of trials. Watched tons of YouTube videos, too. My question is, how to begin from scratch? If you were just starting out, all over again, what would be your plan of attack and how would begin to practice? Thanks.
  3. Several issues here. First, the spring is missing from the back of the piston. It is that spring that keeps the piston pushed out and against the rod (when you go to fill the system with DOT4 hydraulic fluid) that runs to the other side to release the clutch plate pressure. If it's not there and you assemble the slave with the piston fully pushed back there will not be enough travel when you squeeze the arm to move the piston far enough to fully engage the rod. Mine also is leaking from wear in the cylinder wall. Jim has the entire assembly for a very reasonable price, so I've ordered the complete package from him, but at least I know (as do you, now) how it works for future repair issues.
  4. Could not find a 6mm ball bearing locally so I took a 6mm cap nut and machined it to fit the hole. Raised the point of contact up quite a bit so the piston does not have to travel as far as before. I have not put the 30W oil back in as yet but already I'm getting a vast improvement over before. I have an email in to Jim Snell to see if he still has the parts to replace. May have to get the entire slave with the casing as I'm getting a bit of leaking where the inside of the piston shaft was scored. Probably why it was losing its power over time. If you can take a picture of what a new one looks like Peter, I can compare it to my handy work. Thanks much!
  5. Thanks much! I can see that ball bearing way back there. Was not sure if it was a ball or the way this piston was milled. It also has a bit of a flat on it. I will try and freeze this piece to see if the ball will dislodge upon a good whacking against a table top. If that does not work I can drill a wire size hole at the back and push it out. Can fill that tiny hole easy enough. Off to Ace Hardware to see if I can source a 6mm ball baring and some 25mm O rings to replace the seals that are around the piston. Also noticed some scoring on one side of the piston and inside the slave. Have removed it with some crocus cloth.
  6. Thanks both of you. The first outer fiber was pulling away from the plate for about a third of it. None of the others were separating. I cleaned all of them with mineral spirits and cemented the fiber back on. Since that one has the same keying as the back most ring, I swapped them hoping the release pressure will be less at the back. Will see if I can still get these rings somewhere. There were only four springs in this clutch but room for the six. Not sure what that is all about but not having trouble with it grabbing. Anyway, when back together it made no difference. Still not fully releasing when engaged. I do notice there is very little movement in the outer plate cover. Measures only 3/64" which seems way too small. I'm used to much more outer movement in my other clutches. I took off the clutch slave on the other side and you can see there is just a small amount of change from fully engaged (first picture) to not engaged (second picture). I can try doing the bleed again, but from what I can see, moving the clutch lever causes the slave piston to move smoothly and consistently, so it does not appear there is still any air in that line. It's just not moving enough, IMHO. There is another video on Youtube showing a guy (not Jim Snell) replacing the guts to a Gas Gas slave although he never explains why he is doing so. I'm going to take this slave off the hose and open it up. Maybe I will find the problem in there. If that does not pan out the problem may be in that master cylinder. Hoping that's not the case, though.
  7. Hello All. Purchased this 1996 Contact Gas Gas JTR160 last week and in the process of getting it back in shape. I have no manual for this bike and there appears there never was any that I can find. Flying blind on most of this but I have worked on my Honda's so not a complete novice on repairs. My problem is the clutch not fully disengaging. I'm used to bikes with cabled controls and this bike is all hydraulic. Where there usually is a way to adjust the cable tension at the lever on the motor, there is none on this bike. Comparing the right brake lever to the left clutch lever... the brake lever has a hard stop when you squeeze it. The clutch lever is more mushy. I have bled the fluid (there was air in the line at first) and have even done the reverse bleed injecting DOT4 at the nipple forcing it back up the line to the reservoir so pretty sure this is not my issue. The prior owner was running Royal Purple synthetic (5W30) oil, which is a no-no according to what I have read. I drained that and put in 75W conventional gear oil. Before I go and crack these cases I'd like to get some feedback or help with this repair. How is the clutch adjusted inside the case and is there a way to do so? Is it worth filling the case with mineral spirits to try and wash off the oil still in there and add fresh. Even with the oil drained, now, I still have partial engagement of the clutch. I can push the bike forward but not like being in neutral. Thanks!
  8. No, my carb if fine. Was just asking about this Oko carb and was it worth the hype. I also have recently installed a #40 slow jet (up from #38). Hoping for several things from doing so. Less clogging from the bigger jet port, easier starting and smoother off-idle response. Time will tell. My main is a bit smaller that #110. Have no issues with the higher revs at this point. What do you mean by "amazing". What do you find to be the difference?
  9. Has anyone installed one of these Domino slow throttles on their OEM TLR200 carburetor and has it worked out well? What benefit do you get from it? They don't show the TLR200 in their bike list. Do you have the part # you installed?
  10. The existing throttle cable on the TLR200 fits this carb no problem?
  11. I've been watching some Youtube training videos done by the Western District Trials Club. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCZ6Lrqmphte_EJv-vjzj5gg They are very well done with great narration. The terrain out there was meant for trials. I'm envious of what your country has to offer and glad to see the sport is so well received.
  12. I installed this on my bike (the exact one in the above pic) after reading your replies and it does make a huge difference for me. Only my index finger is now required where as before it took at least two fingers. Thanks!
  13. If I inflate to 20 do I still need to raise them up? Is that not the standard road pressure anyway?
  14. What with the low pressures we have in our trials tires, is it best to store the bikes sitting atop a center stand so the weight is off the tires? What do yo folks do?
  15. My first impression was Honda screwed up ! The gearbox wasn't trials , it went no where near slow enough , was totally gutless , and it had a battery !!! It almost handled like a trials bike , but not quite ... It was uncomfortable to ride on the street for more than a couple miles ... I was left wondering what market Honda was trying to reach with the model ? I agree, out of the gate, the 200 Reflex leads a very confusing life. He just does not know what he wants to be when he grows up. Where this whole issue of the 200 not being a trials bike comes in, I feel, is when riders who have ridden other, perhaps better designed, trials bikes poo-poo it as not being up to the standards they are accustomed to. That's fine and I can see their point. However, for me at least, this is all new and I come to the 200 having no prior trials riding experience on any other machine. I am finding I can easily accept the TLR200's faults, if that's what they are, and work with them. Just like the fellas at the meet this past Sunday. They love their 200's and that's what they choose to ride. BTW: they all rode extremely well on the B and A lines. So tweak the carburetor, adjust the dive train ratio and get riding. All the rest of it, I feel at least, can be overcome with good rider technique. Heck, mine has full electrical and I plan to keep it that way. If you're into vintage twinshock trials riding it should serve you well.
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