scooterspal

Could be but I think I can test this theory easily enough. Get the bike warmed up so it is running at the higher idle then open the carb drain port and let out some gas. If the idle goes back down that would probably indicate the carb is flooding. I don't have a problem with this and, as I stated, it does make it easier to ride.

This past weekend was my first full-hearted attempt at learning to ride my TLR200. With the July 4th long weekend I spent some 12+ hours over the three days in the parking lot of the local DMV office. I learned a lot and have increased my confidence level 10 fold. What I found was, as the bike warmed up, the idle would increase to the point I was not having to roll the throttle as far on as much in the turns. This seemed to smooth out the jerking motion of giving gas to a slow idling engine. Not sure why the idle would run higher but I think it may be the carb bowl is flooding. Will test that theory later this week. Anyway, this higher idle made riding easier. I could concentrate on clutch/brake and balance/stance. Is this allowed in competition or are you required to have the bike just barely ticking over?

I know about these systems but since they are only a temporary solution... the CO2 leaks out and then you still need to fill with plain old air... I will try my method. Thanks!

I'd like to set up a small paint ball tank to fill my tires while on the road. Would carry the kit in my back pack. I purchased an adapter sold on Ebay that will allow you to get from the fitting on these tanks to a standard 1/8 NPT female threaded hole. From there you can add a gauge, quick disconnect, etc. I have some questions and am hoping perhaps someone has done this already. These tanks can hold many hundred of PSI's but my garage compressor is only good for around 120psi. If I'm using, say a 20 oz tank, would filling it up until I reach 120 give me enough air to top off most trials tires? That is, bring them from around 4 to 6 psi up to 16 or 18 psi for street riding? Thanks

I installed the TRL200 carb kit and I have the #105 main jet, same as you have. Your pilot jet is not mentioned unless I missed something. Which one are you running with? Find no specific K&N filter for the TLR200 on the K&N web site. Why do you feel that is needed? The OEM filter seems to work fine if installed properly.

Hello esteve: Sorry, but I just saw this posting. I do not know the exact # on that needle as it is sitting inside the carb at the moment. However, I will be opening the carb in a few days and can try and get you that information. I'm waiting on a #40 pilot jet to arrive and want to give that a try. My main complaint is the 200 is hard to start and that might be due to using too small a pilot jet. I'm currently running with the OEM #38 that came on the bike. Honda does not have one specifically for the TLR200 carb... at least not sold here in the USA. However, information I have found in another forum seems to suggest the #40 pilot jet for the older Honda CB bikes will fit the TLR200 carb and from the pics it appears to be the same series... but we will see. Honda #99124-076-0400 For what it's worth, I have always been a great believer in looking at the spark plug for hints on how to do your jetting. It has served me well with all my other street and dirt bikes. See my notes above in this thread. George

There is a company selling something called a clutch lightener on Ebay for the TLR200 and other bikes. Looks to be an extension of the clutch arm. Worth installing?

Actually, this has got me stalled (no pun intended). The videos (which I have on my iPhone so I can watch them over and over) make that look so easy but for now I cannot get past it. Practice and it will come, I hope. Yes, I know. Have been to a vintage trials meet in Rhode Island and many of the men were my age or older and they were fantastic riders some of them. But we do lose our sense of balance as we age. The hairs in our ears die and they do not grow back. Nerves in our feet grow weak. It happens. I think I'm still OK in that regard but the day will come. Hey, thanks for the boost. Something I really needed : )

Thanks fellas. Right now I'm working on my balance. There is no way I can ride this bike until I can balance on it and that is not happening at the moment. At 60 years of age I'm a bit rusty in that area. Hoping I can get some of it back. I own several street bikes and I ride a Honda XR80 dirt bike every weekend in the woods no problem but standing on the pegs on this 200 has to be the hardest thing I have ever tried to do. Made a simple bongo (seesaw) board last night and started working with it after dinner. Cut it so the outer width is about the same as the peg to peg width on the 200 How did you folks learn to ride trials? Any suggestions for an old man? Here is what I aspire to. If I can learn do this I will be more than happy. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7BhZKlU7FhQ BTW: This fellow in Finland has his TRL200 Reflex street legal... lights and all... just like mine. He rides it to the woods, lowers the tire pressure then pumps them back up for the ride home. About as pure a trials rider as you can get IMHO. Check out his description. "100 kg (of) pure iron"

While we are on this subject of weight and all I have another question I hope you folks can help with. Is there any reason someone who weighs, say, 140 lbs cannot ride ride trials on a bike like my TLR200 Reflex weighing at 230lbs as she now sits? That is, will be be harder for me to balance with this bike than one less heavy?

Thanks. I was not sure how to deal with the axle not being centered on the fork. All the trails pics I found had the axle through the center. Now I know better. Will go back and take new measurements but that should reduce the trail somewhat.

You're saying to raise the forks up as far as they will go until they hit the handle bars? How does this help me? It would seem to force the front end down rather than up making it heavier in the front as opposed to lighter which is what you want, yes? Also please advise on the matter of trail. As I measure it it the TLR200 Reflex already has too much trail now at 5.5". Is not the normal trail more like 3.5"? The bike wants to go straight (fine for street riding) but not for trials riding where less trail is better. Easier to make the turns. Thoughts?

So then what's a full carb mod for the TLR200 Reflex consist of? That sounds like a plan : )

Thanks for the reply. I kind of felt the bike seat was high but having nothing to compare it to i was not sure... so that answers one question I had. Everyone concures the bike is heavier than most and, yes, mine has the electrics for street use. It is registered and for now I will keep it that way. I did go down on the front sprocket two years ago and I also bought a larger rear. As I recall the largest that would fit and not hit the plastic shroud. It goes about as slow as it can go now. I read that the test is to set the bike to idle and walk along side it. If you can do that in first gear at walking speed the bike is correctly geared. Make any sense? Tires... I'm not sure what the rear is made for but it is marked "michelin trials". It may well be a dual version for street use. As to the carb, I was able to get the Honda carb kit and updated using that. I created a posting of that a while back. http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/31606-going-for-the-brown/?hl=%2Btlr200+%2Bcarb I'm pretty happy with the power of the bike but I guess when I really get in to it I will be in a better position to make more changes. BTW: Can somone tell me what a "tickover" is?

Thanks for the link. From the pics, though, it does appear some people are able to get the TLR200 to do some pretty amazing things... for a trails bike that is : ) Someone on that post said several times there are some "simple mods" that can be done to the Reflex to make it a far better bike. Can anyone suggest what they may be?

I spent a year rebuilding the TLR200 and I reallyi want to learn to ride her. Just wondering how it compares in terms of size and weight to other similar vintage bikes. I watch UK trials videos on youtube often and it's hard to for me to tell one from the other. Old man riding an old bike. I'm fine with that.

Is the TLR200 Reflex about the same size as most other trials bikes? That is, the wheel size, seat height, overall length, weight of the bike... is it more or less the same? I have read where some say it is too heavy. Just wondering.

I rebuilt my TLR200 Reflex a few yeras ago and never really got in to learning how to ride it. Ashamed to say I've preferred my litttle Honda XR80R for just tooling around my land and it has spoiled me. So easy to ride. Soooooo... I want to get back to the 200 this year but I have a question on the air pressure. The DVD I have from Mick Andrews says he likes to run his bike with 3 lbs of pressure. I've got mine set to 4 right now and it seems very soft even without me on it. I actually ride my XR80R at 4 lbs and it works great but that is a much lighter bike to start with. I have a Dunlap in the front and a Michelin for the rear both with tubes... both new and both trials rated tires. I weigh around 140 lbs if that matters. Can someone give me some guidance, please? Does overall bike/rider weight have anything to do with tire pressure for trials? What are you folks riding with?

Thanks for the heads up on PBI Sprockets. I ordered a 52 tooth and will start off with that for a bit. I believe I have a 10 in the front already

I checked this morning and I apparently have the OEM 44 tooth on the rear. As to using a 9 for the front, was there not some issue with that small a sprocket not clearing the drive shaft properly. Perhaps I confusing that with another bike of mine. Not having much luck locating anything beyond a 48 tooth (Talon in the UK) that will fit the TRL200. Can someone tell me what they're using in a 50 or 52?

Question for owners of the TRL 200... what is the gearing you have for your bike? Stock or ?? I'm finding... from my limited newbee experience... the bike seems to run much too fast just puttering around my backyard in 1st gear. According to an older trials book by a fellow named Perry, the speed should be such that you can walk along side of the bike in 1st gear at idle. I can do that at a pace perhaps 1.5 times faster than normal walking. I only wish I had someone in my area who could test ride this bike for me and make some recommendations. Unfortunately, trials seems to be a foreign word in the states. So, I'm on my own. Please give me some suggestions on what to try.

Thanks for the heads up on the battery. I will put one in : ). Also thanks for the tip on the ATV-type pressure guage. Will search for one online.

What do you use to measure that low a pressure. Digital guage or ?? Clean? Well, it should be since it has yet to see dirt : ) As to riding it, again, I cannot give you much more until I actually do ride it more than around my back yard. To be sure, it is a very strong bike compared to my CR80 and I'm a bit nervous about riding it. The engine has been rebuilt and the compression is very high. Found this video on YouTube. This is the exact same bike in every detail. I have it registered as street legal although it is really much too slow for the street. This is a requirement though for some park areas here where I live. All the lights are there but I can remove the battery and it runs fine. The signals will not flash at idle and the headlight dims a bit with the battery removed.

New to trials. Have a Honda TRL200 Reflex that I restored two years ago. Hoping this year to actually get in some practice riding. I'm middle aged... about 155 lbs. My question is about air pressure in the tires. I have a honda CR80... smallish dirt bike that I've been riding for a few years. Not competing just pleasure riding in the woods, etc. The way I set the pressure is simply by feel. Soft enough so I can press in about half way on each tire with my fingers. This less that scientific method has served me well for the rocky, pebbly, muddy & wet areas I normally encounter. What do you folks recommend as a starting pressure for trials?

There are commercial products that will do the rust removal job better and then allow you to coat the inside of the tank with a sealer to prevent the rust from ever coming back. I'm sure others will offer their suggestions, as well.