BSA got it about 'bang-on' for a design 1957ish. If in 2014 people decide to alter that geometry...so be it. Rear suspension works by mechanical advantage ( thats why the JJ Corba didn't work). But all the 'mechanical advantage' goes out the window if you have no grip (thats why good riders keep it rolling in greasy condition). No matter what is done, in this case (short of removing the rear chain) the vehicle will still move forward.
BSA got it about 'bang-on' for a design 1957ish. If in 2014 people decide to alter that geometry...so be it. Rear suspension works by mechanical advantage ( thats why the JJ Corba didn't work). But all the 'mechanical advantage' goes out the window if you have no grip (thats why good riders keep it rolling in greasy condition). No matter what is done, in this case (short of removing the rear chain) the vehicle will still move forward.
Nobodies mentioned the outer bowden cable, by design, it's easy to pinch the steel outer (restricting the internal diameter), i've found the solution, is either carefully square the end on a grindstone or linisher (removing the restriction), or alternatively, cut it square with a very thin cutting disc (found this the best solution when making aeroquipe hoses, cutting the stainless braiding). There's always a certain amount of delicacy involved, as with any engineering project. My problem has always been that little chrome bit, the bit that covers the outer cable and the plastic outer coating, sometimes just can't get that finishing ferrule, to fit nicely over the plastic coating.
Fantic 240 has one of the best clutches of a trials bike. Therefore the problem has to be within your particular bike. To fit a hydralic clutch, would be a bit like, taking asprin to get rid of a toothache...it might correct the problem in the short term, but your not getting to the root of the problem. To make a guess at what the problem might be...would be a shot in the dark, could be one of ten different things, or a combination of several of those ten things. Without a bit of history to your ownership and wether the clutch was OK for you, in the past, or wether the problem has only just started, all these things help, to point towards where the problem may be. Things like the correct domino lever, to wether the clutch arms been extended, to even wether the clutch cable has a restiction, before we even look at the engine, is it a genuine 240 or a 241 or even a 156, can we assume its a forward kick, if it's a genuine 240, it will have a helical gear primary drive (not straight cut) and the clutch basket will be steel. If all these things are correct, then it's a clutch strip down and minute inspection.
i'm a plumber use a rothenberger torch and mapp gas that ll get it red..
Hello totshell, Benz-o-matic same as rothenberger...click da button...and go (once you own one of these, you'll never be without, great tool), yellow gas, sorry mean't yellow gas canister..the hot gas, as you say mapp gas. Fond memories of my plumbing days....poh runs down hill and you get paid on a thursday.
Sorry to hijack the topic but doesanyone know if there are any butane blow torches that will heat 1/4" mild steel to cherry red. Trying to avoid using seperate oxy/gas botles. Thanks in advance.
Hi Dabalot, Think you'll have to be slightly more specific, how big is the 1/4 thick plate, if it were an 8by4 sheet you'd be hard pressed to get it cherry red, if it were 1/2ins strip you might be lucky. You might have better luck, if you used 6mm !. Best blow lamp on the market (in my opinion, which is worth 'diddly-6mm-squat') is a Benz-o-Matic (ideal for boiling water, during an electricity cut) and use the yellow gas. But anything other than a small piece of 1/4 plate and you'll be struggling. Just wondered why you should be using 1/4 thick plate !
Thanks OTF....Forgot to add...it's imperative not to get the job to hot, a naked flame and the job glowing red, would be a no no, this would change the structure of the cable(weaken it) the correct heat would possible be a soldering iron or a solder pot, i'd give a direct flame a miss. Just use normal 60/40 tin/lead (or is it lead/tin !), don't use inviromentally friendly solder, it don't seem to flow and grip, like the older stuff.
I've always used 'bakers fluid'...its a preparation fluid for soldering. Most ironmongers stock it... it's a clear liquid (looks like water)..just dip the prepared cable into the bakers fluid, heat the cable and nipple and flow the solder. As in previous posting...impairative to 'splay' the cable and it's in it's recess within the nipple and that solder flows to the reverse side.
Hello Bondy, There's so many things to consider...are they the original bolts, which would make them 40years old, have they maybe been overtighten at some time in thier life. Maybe they've been changed, if so are they the correct quality....loads of unknowns. Herewith.......www.nutsboltsandthings.co.uk/information/faq&topic=2 This chart gives torque settings for size and quality also dry or lubed thread. There is one other consideration, let's call it 'mechanical feel'...years of experience, and the 'feel' of a stretching bolt.....this wouldn't really be a consideration, if the bolts were virgin, the threads lubed and the torque wrench accurate.
Hi Millerme, An hydraulic clutch, could make the bike non twinshock compliant at certain events. A round case side cover, as a retro fit to the earlier covers (without the need for a shorter kick start shaft) could be a good seller, also normal round case covers are becoming rare, so two items to consider.. For somebody, such as yourself with cad/cam cnc facilities anythings possible. I notice that certain people are now selling aluminium 'cub hubs' which are electrostatic coated/sprayed rather than a liner, so might be worth considering for your Bulto, as the Bulto hubs are one of the lightest twinshock hubs available (chrome plated). From the 199 onwards it was the beginning of the end of an era and these particular bikes have a certain appeal, but unlike children (where you are only the guardian) you can do whatever your like to your bike, cut it into a thousand pieces and reassemble it, exactly how you want, although from a value perspective, it's going the same way as pre-65, seems people prefer near original examples.
Neither a moron or a self induced egotistical self rightous pumped up excuse, but one of the few people on this site, that deserve some respect, unfortunatley you let yourself down, by having the temerity to criticising a minor spelling mistake, where in the same paragraph you also made a fopar........So you've gotta be......A Nerd with motorcycle tendencies.
Hello MJC, Just measured 198a swinging arm, standard as came from the factory 16ins measured from middle swingarm pivot to middle rear axle at halfway adjustment (give or take 1/4 ins). Measured the 198 that seems to be the same length. The 199b measured that also, that comes out at 17ins, but that's an oval/ comerfords/ Reg May swinging arm, as supplied new/complete bike. Bondy could probably give the measurement of a square section Bultaco swinging arm, also would be interesting to know if 198b and 199b (250 compared to 350) factory square swinging arms are the same length ! Why Comerfords changed the swinging arms, on the UK bikes, Reg isn't here anymore to tell us, somebody may know the true answer, maybe clearance for mud, or more stable on climbs. The other UK feature was the coffin tanks, made in Birmingham (so i'm told) , does anybody remember the name of the manufacturer, or know of one for sale, identifying feature, only alloy tank to use the two bolt (plastic tank) fuel tap, as opposed to the 12mm tap.
JJ65, Sorry mate, it's not as easy as what you say, it's the way the stanchions rotate around the head angle. If it was as easy as you say, Ducati would have won the Moto GP world championship by now. Where's all those clever dudes when you need em ! ! !
Hi Jerry, Changing the yolks (or called triple tree) does not change the fork angle.(with regard to steering) Changing the yokes will change your castor or lead, although from an esthetic view, the forks would look more upright. I'm sure some other subscriber to this web, will be able to explain, better than I. My RTL steers loverly (pinky with disc's) i've found that the rear spring is usually where the problems are, and a new spring correctly preloaded works wonders.
Hi MJC, now you own a Bulto, this is when the learning curve, really starts. In no time you'll be a 'bulto anorak' ...just like the rest of us. I've found the biggest consideration, is 'deep pockets' and even longer arms and big fingers. Buying a 40 odd year old Bulto, it's a bit like an ice berg, it's not what you see, it's really the bits you don't see...which are important. first thing i'd do...take out the wheels..check the chrome brake drum running surfaces, there's many a beautiful Bulto listed on evil bay, that looks loverly, but underneath..crap. If you've got good hubs, that's almost half the battle, stanchions next....hope thier ok. The correct swing arm £30-£50 squid on evil bay, and that monstrosity of a swinging arm, could be sold on evil bay...some 'did low' would love it, probably make £200 squid, or there abouts. Anyways..good luck with your project, i'd take it very softly-softly, learn before you spend, rather than spend before you learn. Ask loads of questions, you'll be amazed at the diversity of replies, most will probably be from the 'moron fraternity' or individuals trying to make a 'few bob', but also many genuine bultaco enthusiasts.
Blimey Mr Greeves,last night at 11pm you thank me for a considered response and go on to say you would give more info later on....(Clearly I have not responded since then) You come back this afternoon with more of something,not anything to do with practical experience of changing balance factors for trials use.Nor have I misquoted you,I think you need to re-read your posts.
I wasn't aware of any trials going on in the west country today,do you mind if I ask where you rode ?
I'm afraid you'll have to reread the posts "is it worth it" is not saying that "it's a waste of time" To dynamically balance a single cylinder engine and to include and noting changes would require 3 complete strip downs of the assemble, tapered crankpins or interference fit crank pins wouldn't like this. Is it worth it. Your 'little gaggle' of hangers on, are what made me decide not to be sucked in and 'give away' a life time of experience. If you persist in misquoting you must expect the urine to be extracted. It would seem our differences are I respect people who ride Trials Bikes in competition and you get your 'high' from being 'the man' numero uno, on an out the way web thread.
Not for long,the crank is ready to come back for me to build up and true.Need some enthusiasm to get on a prep the "new" crankcases,scrape the new timing side bush to size etc...
Entry forms are out for the Golden Valley March Hare,need to get on.
I knew there would be something dynamic somewhere...thought it might have been the crankshaft.....first dynamic piece of engineering I've heard....'size' the mainbearing...with a scraper, very 2014. Sure you haven't got your 'white metal stuck up your phosphor bronze', I'd hate to see you end up another flailed conrod, pist n broke, but never mind, Mr Basset loves you or is it magnetos from Iron.
Disagreement, opinions, guesses, I welcome them, that's what forums are about and here for.
Bad manners and rudeness they ain't here for. You got stuck in a corner and you dug deeper.
I'm not rising to your bait and won't post further on here, your doing just fine on your own.
I must have read this wrong ! Didn't you say "I won't post further on here" and then you go ahead and post again. A real person has to 'stand by his decisions' in my book. So BYE BYE
C15 B40 Shock Length
in Classic Trials
Posted · Edited by ask greeves
This link, Takes you the Tony Gorgot interview, and goes some way to explain why the JJ Cobas didn't work.........http://www.retrotrials.com/page-7-toni-gorgot-interview---exclusive.html