scoobie

Hi, Thanks for the replies. Checked the tension of cam chain by feeling for any freeplay when it was first installed and everything was in place. I serviced the tensioner by removing the collets and radiusing(?) the sharp 45 degree edges on them. Then removed the long bar and used emery paper to remove any deep lines - apparently a common fault - when you loosen the adjuster the chain tightens but when you re-tighten the adjuster the collets locate back into the grooves on the bar they have created. I think I may have found the answer - I converted to bar mounted decompressor and I think that it was holding it ever so slightly open. Not had chance to run and check it yet. Will be in touch. Cheers,

OK, I've replaced the camchain, and cleaned and checked the tensioner - but I'm still getting the rattle, well not so much rattle but loud ticking cum rattle. Am I being paranoid, could it just be the ignition as it goes around and touches/goes past. It increases with revs etc. It's not the valves as I've checked those; besides they're more of a pitter patter. Any advice appreciated.

Many thanks - I'll try that tommorrow.

OOPS!!! Wrong terminology, I meant the piston pin. Thanks for the reply - so you reckon it's the cam chain. How do I check for wear, and how do I replace with the engine in the frame - is there a link to any advice anywhere on any sites? Whose best for parts? Thanks,

Hi, My Seeley's just developed a rattle at the top-end and is a bit hesitant off the throttle. I'm guessing that it's the little end, but could it be the camchain? I've got a Haynes manual that covers the TLR200 and I've done a top-end overhaul on 2 strokes before but never on a four stroke. It looks pretty straight forward, but according to the manual to change the camchain I've got to take the engine out and down to the crank cases. Is there an easier way? I was only going to do the chain in case I put it all back together and it still rattles. How can I tell which needs doing? Should I do the rings while I'm there? Can I do the top-end with the engine still in the frame? Where do you recommend to get the parts and gaskets etc? Thanks in advance?

Thanks. PM'd you.

Checked cevery Seeley picture I could find - I can see the cable going from the decomp arm to a small lever at the bars, but I can't see the 'pear shaped' lever to the rear of the kickstart on any of them?? Anyone got any pics??? Thanks,

if you dont have the valve lifter connected then it will eventualy seize the kickstart shaft, i have had 2 sieze up, the cable goes to a small pear shaped lever near to the oil dipstick, this should move to the rear when you push on the kickstart, if this is not fitted then if the small inner shaft is still in the gearbox you can replace it all with new bits, (not too dear), from the out side, if the inners are missing then the cases have to be split, the haynes or clymer manual should cover the sealy as the engine is basicaly an xl185 engine, and not a tlr lump, as it has the cam end advance/retard and undertank electrics. i would certainly fit the decompressor as in a trial you are stop/starting much more often than road riding. david silver spares if your in the uk can supply the bits, good service. http://www.davidsilverspares.co.uk/ good luck Thanks for that. There is a shaft where you indicate, but it has a nut on the end and I can turn it about 10 degrees each way - I assume this is what you mean. I'll try the address above. Thanks,

Thanks for that.

Hi, Thanks for the replies. How do I rig-up the valve lifter? I take it a cable should go from there to where? If it's like the decomp on my XR then the cable goes to a small lever on the bars - push on the kick till feel compression pull in lever and push a bit further, then release lever and kick - is this the same? The bike was powder coated before I got it but riding it on the drive the throttle cable came loose at the grip and stuck on. It was either hit the cars or deck the bike, which resulted in a few scrapes to the frame and forks, but not a scratch on the tank cover??? I tried to check the valves today using the TLR 200 manual I got with the bike. It refers to a 'T' mark. There isn't one. It is two lines followed by the 'F' mark followed by another two lines. Is this right? If I turn it till the intake open then close, then till the piston as at the top (before the exhaust valve opens) this should be TDC on the compression stroke and check the gaps then. Would you agree? Found this on ebay as you suggested: 110133887548 would this be the correct one, and what throttle bodies would you recommend? Any other things to check regularly on the bike, alter that you can think off? Sorry for all the questions and thanks in advance.

Thanks for that and sorry for the delay in replying. I take it the clearances you mention are in mm?

Hi, Had my bike for a couple of months now and have a few questions for any Seeley owners. 1). There looks like some sort of decomp lever on the top right of the cylinder head. Since buying the bike there has never been a cable to it. Does it need one? 2). What colour is the red used on the frame, and where can I get hold of it in paint form to touch some bits-up? 3) Does the Clymer manual for the Reflex TLR200 1986 -87 cover the majority of my Seeley? (I think mines an 81). If not is there another workshop manual out there you can recommend? 4) Any idea where I can get spares such as throttle cables, etc? Cheers,

Hi, Just bought a used one of these and it looks like the bike's 'done a bit'. I've got the owners manual which gives some info and torques for the axles, but does anyone know where I can find any other info? Preferably the following: 1). Other torque settings for the swingarm, shock, pinch bolts, fork clamps, etc, etc. 2). Owners manual mentions a paper oil filter - where's this located? Behind the drain plug, or will I need to remove the bashplate to locate it? 3). How to check and adjust the bucket and shim valves, and what the tolerances are? Cheers,

Hi, Bought a 350 Sherpa to restore, but a change of job means I won't have the time. Can anyone recommend someone who restores old bikes (apart from the obvious dealers), preferably in the Midlands area? Cheers,

Hi, Depends on the noise, hard to diagnose without hearing it. You may be lucky and it could just be piston slap, or it's running to 'lean' - what's the mixture and what does the plug look like? Then again it could be the small end. If your really unlucky - which is usually my case - then it could be the main bearings. Regarding the revs, the throttle slide may be sticking inside the carb, or the actual throttle body on the handlebar may be sticking, or even a kink/catch in the cable somewhere. Start with the easy stuff and check the throttle at the bar, lube and check the routing of the cable, then check the throttle slide itself - the spring could be knackered. Also check there isn't any air leaks on both carb manifolds while your at it. If that doesn't work come back to us and it maybe time to take-off the carb to strip and clean it and blow-out the jets. Hope it hepls.