I will do, the bike is currently with Triple D in Kendal and when they get a moment they will take a look at it. I'd go for the CDI unit myself, the coil resistances checked out okay.
Peter
In the end it was the stator after all. I'm far from certain that the reconditioned one I fitted was in fact a repaired one?
Well, you tried. Do report the findings, please, as things go it may yet help others.
I will do, the bike is currently with Triple D in Kendal and when they get a moment they will take a look at it. I'd go for the CDI unit myself, the coil resistances checked out okay.
I did a multimeter test of the stator today and the readings to earth from brown and black were low, with both orientations of the probes on the diode setting. I've ordered a replacement stator
We'll see.
Peter
Fitted the reconditioned stator - still no spark. I suspect it's the coil or CDI unit, bike with dealer who will have a look.
Completely understand, yet as these things go, other than basics mentioned, we have no true way of functional testing of these components in the field, other than component swapping and isolation of the faulty part via that method.
I did a multimeter test of the stator today and the readings to earth from brown and black were low, with both orientations of the probes on the diode setting. I've ordered a replacement stator
As this bike is not old, I still have reservations about the stator. Chewy did report a failed coil pack on his, yet seems rare, but If you have no close friends to swap parts off a similar year bike, then contact someone like Splatshop Chris to sent you off a package of bits to isolate the problem. He will only charge for what you use.
You may ohm things out, as stated, but prooblem is we have no way of functionally testing erratic hall effect units on the stator on a dead bike!
Steve at MotoPlat doubts the shorting of the coil and auxiliary supply would lead to a ignition problem. I'm too busy to get some time with the bike until next week but I'll do the checks he suggested and if it seems okay I'll get onto Splatshop.
I don't want to jump to conclusions but when I saw the bare wire under the frame I probably did.
As I do not have a 2010 on hand to ck, last I seen the yellow wire feeds power to fan and lights.
I would disconnect kill button and inspect earthe on cdi unit/ coil, install new sparkey.
After basic cks. you may be down to cdi,coil or stator plate!
GOt any friends?
That would make sense thanks and helps explain a lot about a system I don't fully understand. It does go up to the fan control location tucked up under the headstock. I suspect that effectively shorting this supply has damaged the stator (at least). I've checked the security of the earth on both the coil and the CDI unit already as well as disconnecting the kill switch and it sadly didn't help.
Friends yes Friends who really understand such stuff sadly no.
Way ahead, other than properly sorting the wiring is probably to check/remove the stator and see if I can get it repaired.
I fitted a racing harness to my 2010 Sherco 2.9. I'll put my hand up and admit I could have done better with the wiring, a lack of decent crimping tools and a hot air gun meant some connections were soldered and wrapped in insulating tape
I was riding today when the motor stopped. Fuel was fine and there was no spark at the plug. I tried a new plug but the bike is completely dead.
My 1st thought was to check the wiring harness and I discovered that the tape on the yellow wire that goes up from the stator to the headstock was worn bare and this wire was presumably shorting on the frame. Even with this sorted the bike still has no spark
Anything I can check? What should be the output to earth on the yellow wire from the crankcase?
I wish I had a wiring diagram and I also wish I understood these type of ignition and electrics.
I think if you are bound to try the 44 rear you will likely need a half link kit om the chain to extend it. These are(or were) available for the stock Regina chains.
As far as the carb goes, I figure on a 33 pilot you are still going to be in the 3-3.5 out range on the mix screw. This "hunt" position thing has more to do with how it settles back to a normal idle after revved than anything. Slow to come down means too lean and back it out a bit more.
Other method would be a quick wick of the throttle off idle to ck for momentary bog. Too much bog and you have gone in too far and need to back the fuel screw out to richen things a bit with more fuel off idle.
Seems Baldilocks is on well with the 36 pilot at 2.5 turns out, yet things vary bike to bike and you must be the judge.
Many thanks to you Sir and the others who have helped. It's been a learning curve and great fun too.
As a total and 'matur'e newcomer I had my 1st training day yesterday with my club and had a great time and learnt a lot. General feedback on the bike was that it was quite 'soft' but with plenty of go when needed - ideal. A couple of experienced riders said the gearing was a bit tall. This seemed right to me as clutch out rocky stream beds seemed a bit 'scary' due to the bikes pace in 1st gear. I also stalled it more than once.
I'm planning on fitting a 9 tooth gearbox sprocket although some have suggested going for changing the rear sprocket. What'll be best do you think? I could I suppose fit a Renthal rear if only for the bling factor.
I've plans to replace the light switch and I've got the wiring harnesses incoming. Is it possible to remove the old switch without removing the grip (that's a new glued on Domino)? I've tried and failed to do this already.
Finally, I hear recommendations for changing the jets. The bike is a standard 2010 and is (was) new old stock. What changes are recommended here and what are the benefits?
What should I be taking with me in the van? I'm thinking puncture repair here and tools.
I know there's a whole host of expertise on here and would value your comments
Peter
Well, in the form of an update, the Sherco has been well fettled. I've:
Removed the wiring harness and fitted a 'racing' loom and kill switch
Repaired a front puncture
Fitted a V-Mar protector
Fitted a number board
Lubed the rear linkage
trimmed the fuel tank breather
fitted 2nd hand frame and tank protectors
fitted a slow throttle tube and Domino grips (blue/white)
fitted an inline fuel filter
changed idle jet from 30 to 33, fitted a 250 float jet and adjusted the float tangs to parallel
I bought a 44t rear sprocket but the chain isn't long enough to accommodate it.
Can anyone help me with a recommended starting point for the mixture screw. I'm struggling to get it to a noticeable 'hunt' position to turn it back a little.
The bike is running well and is now much stronger and less likely to stall from low revs.
Hmm.... Just stripped my PHBL 26BS to clean it for the 1st time and see what pilot jet is fitted - 30. I've ordered a 33 and I'm pondering about this here float height. It's running fine at the moment, except for some stalling issues, so if I can't find where on the tang to take the measurement I'll give in. I'm running a 122 main by the way.
i found a leaner oil mix runs better on my 2010 290 at low revs to help with the stalling. using 75ml to 5 litres where previously running 100ml. also using a iridium spark plug which seams to be nice. id say the gearing is fine, definately not to tall, you just need to adapt to the bike. i found mine far from soft, very snatchy and a handful to ride, which can be good for a higher level rider. you might be confusing this with the gearing, a change in gearing or fly wheel weight would help this i suppose.
One of the very experienced guys running the session on Saturday had a go on the bike and asked what I had done to make it so soft off the bottom. He even said it was softer than the Yamaha 250. I suspect it's the large pilot jet. There's plenty of go once I get to the main jet The transition is prone to stalling in my very limited experience.
I think I'm running 80:1 (perhaps a 'little' heavy handed with the oil while the bike is new)
Also on 2010 bikes - the rear suspension linkage changed from bearings to bushes. The bushes do not have and seals and require stripping and greasing quite often.
It's an easy job once you have done it once.
I drop the gearbox oil every month and grease up the suspension at the same time.
Also - I have found behind the stator cover to get wet - the water gets in through the cable penetration - fill this gap with a good sealant and remove the cover now and again to check there's no moisture - stators are expensive and don't like water.
I've done the linkage bearings already but the stator tip is a good one thanks, I'll keep an eye on it and put some silicon around the grommet. I've got gearbox oil to change out after this weekend.
Lots of thoughts here. A lot is a trade off depending on ability and the terrain you are riding. Add the fact the 2.9 is not the most gentile learners bike.
Seems somewhat likely the bike came with a #30 pilot jet which makes things soft off the bottom, maybe not bad in your case, yet does nothing for kickback and stalling. Basic recco here is to slow the ignition timing a bit by anout 3mm counter on the stator plate.
I do not normally recco gearing changes, but better clutch usage, at the most 2 teeth up on the rear as compared, this has only half the effect of going to a 9 on front.
Use a slow(black) throttle tube. Get some medium Renthal grips and bar ends that fit. Carefully trim out the end of the throttle side grip with a Dremel tool and sanding drum thing till you get your bar end to fit perfect, with proper clearance and no drag. Light oil on the bars.
I looked at an old light swich, should come off but you gotta twist it to get it to unlatch the front section once screw out.
Fitted the racing wiring harness and kill switch today . I had a bit of a panic and thought I was lost but after I'd calmed down a bit I got it done. Needed to make a slight modification as the 2009 harness doesn't quite fit the 2010. Really pleased with the result - got rid of a lot of extraneous wire and switchgear.
Re-route your fuel tank vent to the handlebars from it's current position at rear shock - this stops the tank from emptying itself when the bike falls over.
Also the coolant hose that runs behind the front pipe - cable tie some rubber sheet or similar round the coolant hose to protect it from the heat off the exhaust. Have seen a couple 2010's fry this pipe meaning day over.
That's a couple of very useful tips there and thanks for that. I did at one point see fuel pouring into the beck from my bike on it's side above me I'll check the hoses out too. Appreciated.
Lots of thoughts here. A lot is a trade off depending on ability and the terrain you are riding. Add the fact the 2.9 is not the most gentile learners bike.
Seems somewhat likely the bike came with a #30 pilot jet which makes things soft off the bottom, maybe not bad in your case, yet does nothing for kickback and stalling. Basic recco here is to slow the ignition timing a bit by anout 3mm counter on the stator plate.
I do not normally recco gearing changes, but better clutch usage, at the most 2 teeth up on the rear as compared, this has only half the effect of going to a 9 on front.
Use a slow(black) throttle tube. Get some medium Renthal grips and bar ends that fit. Carefully trim out the end of the throttle side grip with a Dremel tool and sanding drum thing till you get your bar end to fit perfect, with proper clearance and no drag. Light oil on the bars.
I looked at an old light swich, should come off but you gotta twist it to get it to unlatch the front section once screw out.
Many thanks for that, much appreciated. I've already changed to the black throttle body and twisting the switch makes a whole lot of sense now having looked at it carefully before risking breaking it. Stalling is for me a bit of an issue although as you say the bike is soft off the bottom. Any jet/needle changes you'd advise that help with the progression and resist stalling without giving too much of the soft nature away? I'll look at the 'how' in adjusting the timing too. I'm generally quite handy mechanically but it's a new type of bike for me. Riding advice has varied from getting good with clutch use to not using it! Stream beds with small (tiny?) steps and clutch out riding just seems to give too much pace for me.
I've fitted some Domino grips with the button ends using Renthal glue so they may have to stay for a bit. They seem pretty good and the throttle is smooth. I've been told I'm too gentle and on watching some video footage last night I'm surprised at how careful I looked on the bike
As a total and 'matur'e newcomer I had my 1st training day yesterday with my club and had a great time and learnt a lot. General feedback on the bike was that it was quite 'soft' but with plenty of go when needed - ideal. A couple of experienced riders said the gearing was a bit tall. This seemed right to me as clutch out rocky stream beds seemed a bit 'scary' due to the bikes pace in 1st gear. I also stalled it more than once.
I'm planning on fitting a 9 tooth gearbox sprocket although some have suggested going for changing the rear sprocket. What'll be best do you think? I could I suppose fit a Renthal rear if only for the bling factor.
I've plans to replace the light switch and I've got the wiring harnesses incoming. Is it possible to remove the old switch without removing the grip (that's a new glued on Domino)? I've tried and failed to do this already.
Finally, I hear recommendations for changing the jets. The bike is a standard 2010 and is (was) new old stock. What changes are recommended here and what are the benefits?
What should I be taking with me in the van? I'm thinking puncture repair here and tools.
I know there's a whole host of expertise on here and would value your comments
HI how strange another new member from colchester area. I have been riding bikes a long time and have had a couple of goes at trials in the past. I have a Bultaco 325 1976 recently restored, a 315 Montesa 2000, a BMW R1200S, (I love this machine), and a KTM EXC400 that I use for green laneing, I was a member of Castle Colchester, but now plan to join Braintree club as its more trials oriantated.
I am a civil engineering consultant, this is a pain as it uses up to much time that could be better spent riding.
Good to see that Colchester Castle is still going strong. I was a member from 1970 til I joined the RN in 1973. Happy times indeed.
I'm known as Timpo, a trail rider living in Cheshire but specialising on riding the Welsh trails.
My girlfriend, also a trail rider, was reading a post on one of the other forums and it featured several of our friends riding at an Aquaduct Classics trial recently.
Now I must admit, I'm a lucky bloke, as many of my pals have had to earn brownie points to go and by one bike, nevermind two..... but Sarah asking me "why haven't you got a trials bike?" was all I needed to go and buy my 8th bike. So with ST's two, we have ten bikes here now.... I think it's time to move house!:-)
OK, so now as of yesterday I own a Gori MT325, and I reckon with a few days maintenance it will be ready for a trial. I believe the Aquaduct Club is running a meeting on the 6th of march, so that is what I'm aiming for...... I may see you there.
Timpo.
PS. If anyone has information about the Gori to send me, including parts outlet and workshop manuals, it will be gratefully received.
Welcome Timpo.
I have, my other half and I both ride road bikes, I have the trials bike incoming and she would like a bike for gentle trail riding too
Is this what your after -http://www.tec-cycles.com/id48.html
I emailed Vince in the States and the suppliers over here are Steve Saunders, SXS and
<mention of this company is not permitted on Trials Central>.
They don't hold the item in stock evidently but if there's a number of us who can co-ornate via here we could maybe approach one of the two en masse and persuade them to order a batch?
Have I fried my Sherco electrics?
in Sherco
Posted
In the end it was the stator after all. I'm far from certain that the reconditioned one I fitted was in fact a repaired one?
Peter