Thanks folks, I did take off the flywheel and cleaned up in there and checked all the wires before I made the first post above. It did finally start but the spark is still weak and it sometimes takes several kicks???
I would still like the answers to my 2 questions:
Disconnect the 12-way black connector between the generator and CDI and with the use
of a multimeter, verify that the resi- stances read between the terminals shown below fall within
the prescribed range: black-white (pick-up): 320 ohm ± 15%
red-blue (condenser): 300 ohm ±15 % yellow-brown (services): 0.45 ohm ±20 %
I got the prescribed values for the "black-white" and the "red-blue" terminals but there is NO YELLOW terminal sonothing to test for the "yellow-brown (services)???
There is a yellow wire near by but it does not go thru the 12-way connector?? (and it does not give the 0.45 ohm value when tested with the brown wire that is in the 12-way connector
Question #1 - Does anyone know what the disconnect is regarding the yellow wire???
Question #2 - I also have been unable to find a Wiring Diagram that is applicable for this bike. Can anyone point me to one.
My bike would not start (after previously starting easily and running fine) and I've spent many hours trying to figure out why. It had a spark but it was weak!
Section 3.10.1 "Testing the Ignition Stator" in the official Beta Workshop Manual says:
The stator winding must be inspected while
the temperature of the component is ap- proximately 20 °C.
The inspection may also be performed with the generator coupled to the engine.
Disconnect the 12-way black connector between the generator and CDI and with the use
of a multimeter, verify that the resi- stances read between the terminals shown below fall within
the prescribed range: black-white (pick-up): 320 ohm ± 15%
red-blue (condenser): 300 ohm ±15 % yellow-brown (services): 0.45 ohm ±20 %
I got the prescribed values for the "black-white" and the "red-blue" terminals but there is NO YELLOW terminal so nothing to test for the "yellow-brown (services)???
There is a yellow wire near by but it does not go thru the 12-way connector?? (and it does not give the 0.45 ohm value when tested with the brown wire that is in the 12-way connector
Does anyone know what the disconnect is???
I also have been unable to find a Wiring Diagram that is applicable for this bike. Can anyone point me to one.
Thanks for the responses folks. It is a small (~1/4") hole from impact on the left side above the rear master cylinder. I am actually doing a mod to the brake system to install a LHRB to go with my EFM Auto-Clutch so I have now decided to heat and flex bend the air box to allow a brake hose to go to the 2nd (LHRB) part of the Master Cylinder.
I have tired to bond to plastic gas tanks in the past for mods and fixes and it is NOT easy an nearly nothing sticks to the "plastic". Any ideas appreciated! THANKS!
The fuel hose on my Long Range Tank is leaking right where it exits the shut-off valve. I can't see any way to get in there to release it so I can replace the hose. Does anyone have any ideas on how to get to it or how to take the fuel valve out?
Thanks for all the good info folks. I've decided to try the Michelin X11 and think/hope I can squeeze it in. I have one on my Beta 200 and it is good! So I have a 2:15 X18 rim and spokes are ordered
The bike I'm trying to fit it to now is a Luna Sur-Ron eMC. I love it as it is so light and I have made quite a few mods - 21" front wheel with knobby and 3:50 19" Mitas ~trials on wider rim on back, foot pegs lower and farther back and handle bar higher and farther forward. The light weight "eStart" and smallish size are great for the 77 year OLD guy for the gnarly trail riding I likw and I'll probably try it at a Trials event.
Can anyone tell me the diameter of the pistons in the AJP brake and clutch lever assemblies?
Also can anyone tell me IF there is supposed to be a thin "washer" under the circlip that holds the pistons in the assembly.
Last time I had mine apart I THINK I remember that the circlip ID was large enough to let the piston come out (therefore a thin washer was needed)- but I may not have had the correct circlip???
Does anyone know of an online price list for Beta OEM parts?
I am just looking for something to get some idea of what various items cost even if I can't order online so I have some idea of whether an item is affordable, etc. Don't even care too much what the country on currency unit is.
My 2009 300 4t has suffered it's 2nd major engine failure. I'm looking for help advice on how to not have a 3rd! -----
I bought the bike used and it always seemed to overheat. I finally partially solved this problem by changing to Evans coolant which has a much higher boiling point than any other coolant. This seemed to work for a while - probably because the ambient temperatures were low and I didn't generally run the bike hard or for a real long period of time. ------
Eventually I started hearing a loud knocking noise and the bike started running badly. I tore it down and found that the red fiber cam chain tensioners had melted and pieces of them were all over the right side of the engine, etc. Thus the knocking noise was the cam chain flailing around and the poor running was the bad cam timing and/or the engine temperature. The coolant was also low. -------
Farther investigation showed that there was NO IMPELLER on the water pump!!! My assumption at that point was that the prior owner had done some engine work on the bike and just forgot to install the impeller. SO I cleaned out the engine, replaced the melted cam chain tensioners and installed a new water pump impeller. I also did some other things like changed the cam chain and the water pump shaft and seals and some gaskets, etc. to try to make it as good as possible. When I reassembled it the engine seemed to still have good compression and ran fine. ------
After a few hours of low stress use all seemed OK. I then lent the bike to a friend to use to help a beginner learn to ride and after several hours the motor stopped. It appeared to be seized (kick starter wouldn't move when trying to kick it over). I pulled the clutch cover and found big pieces of the fiber cam chain tensioner in the right side clutch and drive area. Once I had the clutch off the crank would turn - SO apparently it was just locked up from a piece of the cam chain tensioner getting jammed in the primary gears. I then tore the engine down to investigate and replace what was damaged. I figured maybe I'd over stressed one of the tensioners when I replaced them because I remember having to force them some to get them in. HOWEVER upon farther investigation I found that THE WATER PUMP IMPELLER WAS AGAIN MISSING - TOTALLY GONE !!! ------
I KNOW I put a new one in there last time. Although I had thought the 1st failure was due to the prior owner failing to put in a impeller (because I couldn't imagine that it would totally disappear) I now know that these impellers can TOTALLY DISSAPPEAR!!! ------
SO now I don't know what is causing this OR what to do to prevent this from recurring? I think I remember reading about an aluminum impeller replacement? IS THAT THE FIX??? HELP! ------
Unfortunately I also found that the piston is scored and there is piston material on the cylinder wall. I haven't done any analysis of how badly the cylinder is damaged but that is next and I will obviously need a new piston and a cylinder hone or bore or replacement depending on how bad it is. Any advice on this would also be appreciated. -----
I have a 2009 Evo 300 4t and would love to have a spare wheel set. So I am wondering what other model wheels would interchange with mine?
I'm not concerned about the color rim type of spoke type, etc. Just looking for what else would physically fit and work (e.g. same offset, overall hub width, etc.)
Has anyone priced a NEW set? I'd imagine it is a scary number?
Accurate Wiring Diagram for 2014 Beta Evo 200 2T
in Beta
Posted
The official Beta Workshop Manual does not have a wiring diagram. I've done some looking but not successful so far.
Can anyone provide one or a link?
THANKS!