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Well even though I got the fan out without reoving the radiator, I was having trouble putting one of the the fan shroud bolts back in so ended up taking the radiator off completely after all.
New fan in and all working great..... Just got to refit the front of the skid plate - and yes it's looking tricky
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Going to do my first gear oil change on my 315 - any tips to do it cleanly? I presume I have to accept the fact that the drained oil is going to go all over the top of the skid plate
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Cheers. I may well pop up on Sunday to have a look anyway.
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To answer my own question.... yes you can:
Remove the 4 bolts holding the fan mounting frame to the radiator
Undo all the electrical connectors
Remove the radiator top hose
Remove the spark plug
Push the clutch/throttle cables to one side and wiggle the fan/frame around. The frame is quite flexible and allows you to pull it out through the gap above the engine.
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I'm near Tarvin. Got the bike to play on but may well do some trials..... but I probably need some basic skills and a non-overheating bike first!
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Cheers guys, I had heard that before and I'm hoping not to take it off! I'm going to start by taking the top hose and the plug off/out of the head and see if it will come out that way.
Nice to see there's a couple of other 315s nearby..... I'm just outside Chester
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tests are showing my cooling fan to be on the way out. I've removed the 4 bolts but it still seems quite tight getting it out - just thought I'd check - is it possible to remove the fan without removing the whole radiator?
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I need to flick the fan on my 315 to get it running after which it runs OK. Is there anything I can do about this or is it knacked?
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Ooo Im liking that idea for the pegs
hey Canada, have you forgotten how flat it is?!!
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Decided my old 315 needs a little facelift. The pegs and sidestand are proper bashed around with very little of the original silver remaining so I thought I might make them look better.
I was thinking of having them blasted then [hopefully] painting them myself. Is this a pointless exercise and should I go with powedercoating instead?
If paint is OK anybody suggest something that would work?
Cheers.
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No I haven't. Bikes new to me and I'm putting a few bits right. Got some spokes coming so will see what can be done.
I would have thought that the hub would stay in the centre though as it's bolted in!
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Yep, looks like the sprocket was not on centrally and there's a couple of mm movement until the bolts are tightened up. I'll adjust it and see it helps.
This is quite surprising though, I would have thought there should be no movement at all - just put the bolts in and the sprocket's in the right place.
The wheel isn't quite true due to a broken spoke but will fix that this week. The new sprocket is a Talon bought off eBay, I'll do some measurements and see if this is not correct.
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Just fitted new chain and sprockets to my 315 and there's quite a bit of variation in chain tension on every rotation of the rear wheel. What should I be looking at to fix this?
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You could take it out and NOT throw it away! See if it runs OK, if not you could put it back. Let us know how you get on as I may do the same.
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OK, cheers.
*goes off to google ball stone grinder*
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My, new to me, 315 has come with 11t front/38t rear sprockets and the chain looks pretty tired - I'm pretty sure these sprockets are not good to learn on!
So I'm going to buy new (10/42) sprockets/chain and I was wondering if I will need to shorten the chain from new or is it going to be the correct length ?- 'cos I haven't got a chain tool
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Took the end cap off and the baffle tube is broken into two pieces and is missing some bits. About 30% of the packing was also missing! Can't find any 1" perforated tube so I'll probably get some 1.5", cut it and roll it into 1" diameter then repack. Hopefully this should make a difference.
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Nice one, thanks Canada. I'll take it apart and have a look to see what can be done. Is the straight pipe noisier than the original? I would have thought it would be.
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Took the silencer off my (new to me) '98 315r yesterday and it rattled. Looking in at the front end I can see the inner perforated tube but it's not connected at either end and has dropped down into where the packing used to be!
Presuming it is actually meant to be connected to each end piece I'm guessing the old tube has corroded/broken. Anybody know if the tube is straight or does it curve inside the silencer?
Also, is it possible to get replacements?
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Picked up my '98 315 yesterday and it's rattling/tapping pretty much all the time (i.e. no difference regardless of throttle).
The engine has had new bearings and rings but the piston is the old one - work was carried out by a Honda engineer apparantly. It's currently running on standard unleaded so I'll get some premium to try and I'm sure the silencer needs repacking (not sure if this can make a difference though). Anything else I need to look at before getting the carb off and looking at the jets?
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Really
As this is an old thread is this advice still good or is there a better cheap packing now?
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Hopefully picking up my '98 315R this week. I do know the fork seals need replacing although I'll probably spend some time trying to ride the thing before I tackle this job. Thinking ahead, I have some 7wt fork oil that I use on the Fox forks on my mountain bike - would this be OK to use or should I stump up for some 10wt?
Bear in mind that I'm realistically going to be using this bike for learning and big drops, etc are not really on the cards for the foreseeable future!
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Thanks for the reminder. I'll be strapping the bike to the fixing points on either side of the car so it shouldn't be able to move forwads.
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That might be a bit extreme in my case..... the XC90 is pretty big inside. Think I've decided how it's going to fit - will post a pic if it works.
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