Jump to content

sigwilk

Members
  • Posts

    23
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by sigwilk
 
 
  1. It was a trail bike as already posted but also the same frame and engine as used for the BSA Tracker. This bike was converted by Mick Chapman of Evesham motorcyles into a mono trials bike using the Yamaha DT 175 engine. See BSA Chapman on the TC Garage pages. I have the bike shown

    See http://motorcyclerestorations.blogspot.com/ - I've scanned in a LOT of info from old articles, brochures, etc. And, I'm in the process of restoring an NVT Rambler 125. Looking for any new old stock. Let me know what you have.

    http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Al54OSkygPU/TraS2R1emnI/AAAAAAAAAfU/vFXHCHn0N8Q/s1600/021.JPG

    Regards Simon

    http://motorcyclerestorations.blogspot.com/

  2. Hi, from Reading, Berks, UK.

    I've set up a blog at http://motorcyclerestorations.blogspot.com/ to follow the restoration of my TY175, along with my NVT Rambler 125 (remember them??).

    This is my first resto, and I'm trying to get it to highest standard I ca, Many, Many new old stock parts have been used, int bash plate, rear under guard plate, etc, etc. Most small parts are available from CMSNL - see link on blog page. Reasonably cheap, and reliable delivery.

    Any commenst welcome, best regards Simon

    http://motorcyclerestorations.blogspot.com/

  3. YES silver methinks

    Thanks

    what colour did you go for? I did mine in silver, and painted, rather than powder coat. http://motorcyclerestorations.blogspot.com/2011/12/defining-moment-in-any-restoration-i.html'>http://motorcyclerestorations.blogspot.com/2011/12/defining-moment-in-any-restoration-i.html

    http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5LAT_vfdDtQ/Ttf1YD2nZHI/AAAAAAAAAn4/RTMVzgWiwIM/s1600/080.JPG

    Regards Simon

    http://motorcyclerestorations.blogspot.com/

  4. hub is aluminium, the brake plate is magnesium

    Agree. I had mine aqua blasted, and I'll leave unpainted. I'll protect with a wipe of ACF-50 used sparingly on a rag. It lasts a long time, and is redone every few months should be fine. http://motorcyclerestorations.blogspot.com/2011/12/ty175-wheels-back-from-aqua-blasting.html'>http://motorcyclerestorations.blogspot.com/2011/12/ty175-wheels-back-from-aqua-blasting.html

    124.JPG

    Regards Simon

    http://motorcyclerestorations.blogspot.com

  5. :agreed: however if you want a recommendation then take whatever you see on here as "suggestions" and try them for yourself. Bike set up and that is what we are talking about here is a very personal thing. I have ridden many bikes that to me feel bloody awful and sometimes almost unrideable but the owner thought they were the dogs danglies. So suck it and see.

    As I won't be riding mine much (bad back) I used cheap ones off eBay - http://motorcyclerestorations.blogspot.com/2011/12/ty175-todays-progress.html.'>http://motorcyclerestorations.blogspot.com/2011/12/ty175-todays-progress.html. For the front, I believe standard is to have the forks 20mm protruding out of yolk. See http://motorcyclerestorations.blogspot.com/2012/01/ty175-brakes-and-forks-update.html.'>http://motorcyclerestorations.blogspot.com/2012/01/ty175-brakes-and-forks-update.html. There's a couple of reference images there too.

    152a.jpg

    Regards Simon

    http://motorcyclerestorations.blogspot.com/

  6. Fit the OEM Yamaha guard and do not use the chrome aftermarket support. The very early front guards did not have an internal steel brace which the later ones have. You will notice that there is a directional arrow on the inside of the guard as some people seem to fit them backwards!! The aftermarket support is for standard non Yamaha guards and is often fitted incorrectly. The longer portion should be forward of the forks to allow a straight run on the brake cable.

    At the rear the inner brace is there more for securing the wiring harness cables rather than acting as a true support. Aftermarket rear guards are quite expensive so most people retain the lower portion splash guard part that fits around the exhaust and cut the remaining piece off. A standard generic guard can the be cut and joined to the inside of the lower portion.

    Tony

    See my front one here - http://motorcyclerestorations.blogspot.com/2012/01/ty175-front-mudguard.html.'>http://motorcyclerestorations.blogspot.com/2012/01/ty175-front-mudguard.html. A few hours with wet and dry and its well on the way to looking like new. I'm getting the bracket undeerneath re zinc'ed, and all the bushes, bolts, rubbers for the rear gaurd are on order from CMSNL (see link on web page above.) I've also sourced a new old stock rear inner brace - see http://motorcyclerestorations.blogspot.com/2011/12/ty175-nos-muguard-bracket.html.'>http://motorcyclerestorations.blogspot.com/2011/12/ty175-nos-muguard-bracket.html. A bit pricey, but I am after restoring mine to as new (well as best I can for a first resto!)

    Regards Simon

    http://motorcyclerestorations.blogspot.com

  7. A Bultaco tensioner will do the job I'd imagine (same side chain drive). Just need a bracket welded underneath the spindle area to bolt it to.

    I had a 320 Majesty with that arrangement which worked fine. You could always replace the standard pad with the modern angular type.

    Or one from Sherco?

    See http://www.tytrials.co.uk/trailandtrialsuk/prod_1621780-1622-New-Replacement-Chain-Tensioner-Assembly-TY125-amp-TY175.html - they do a difft version

    Regards Simon

    http://motorcyclerestorations.blogspot.com/

  8. Hi Steve

    The steering on that TY175 with the frame mods is as good as I have ever felt on a twinshock, so I have no desire to change the steering angle. I suspect that the fore-aft weight balance of the bike+rider also has a lot to do with the steering as well as the steering geometry.

    Yes I do ride (other people's) moderns now and then and find that there are so many differences to a twinshock in how they are to ride, that I have trouble riding anywhere near the same standard as I can on a twinshock, so can't really comment on differences in the steering.

    I think that the TY175 with the frame mods has better ergonomics than the standard TY175 because the handlebars are now higher and further forwards, which gives more room to move around on the bike, and the stance is slightly more upright. I am only average size but feel a bit cramped on the standard frame bike. A smaller rider may not find those changes to be a benefit.

    The TY175 with the YZ125 clutch cover has a motor which has the bottom end from a 3H8 prefix motor (DT175E I think). The motor came with that YZ125 clutch cover. I haven't tried to fit the YZ125 cover to a TY175 motor. I'm only thinking it is a cover from a YZ125 because it looks the same to me as covers on late 1970s YZ125 (DEF) and IT175 (DEF), which lines up age-wise with the DT175E. Maybe the earlier YZ125 motors (ABCX models) had slightly different clutch covers that will fit the TY175. An easy way to check these things is to look up the part numbers for the clutch cover gaskets for the different models.

    I will take a photo of the longer TY175 brake link and to avoid external photo hosting, will probably post it on the Aussie trials website.

    Nice Work. I've seen these on eBay and wondered how they work.

    Simon - http://motorcyclerestorations.blogspot.com/

 
×
  • Create New...