I have a 2014 300 Pro Racing and last week I tried the clutch action on a 2019 300. It was soooo much lighter!
Seems they have a thinner spring which I guess is the reason it's so light. Also has the adjustable clutch.
Anyone know if there are any other differences and if it's possible to change my 2014 clutch to be the same as the 2019? I have arm issues (compartment syndrome) and the lighter the lever action the better for me.
Thanks.
Is yours set up correctly? When is the last time you took the clutch lout and measured the clutch pack? They swell with time and lever becomes stiffer.
Txt editions have a crank case bottom end drain plug for this. Remove the skid plate and the plug is on the bottom of the big end. Wish others did this...
—Biff
But getting the skid plate back on can be a real pain, especially on a older bike.
Which are better for protecting the stanchions, the neoprene slip ons or the carbon look cable tied ones. was out today and put some serious scratches on mine
Put some new decals on my 05 250 pro. Got them off ebay, I upgraded to the thickest laminate they had, worth the extra £10 they charged me. Seem to be good quality.
Okay, Success!!! The bolt finally came out just as Laser1 had said. I did try my little hammer operated impact driver, and got nowhere with that. The handful of Torx bits I had in the correct size got pretty rounded, so I gave up and drilled it out. I'm certain the chips were all captured in the liberal amount of grease I put on the drill flutes. I swabbed everything left with many cotton swabs, stuck my small pencil magnet tool in there, and even used my Shop Vac for good measure. The 1/4 inch left hand drill went a short ways into the bolt head, then "caught itself" in the bolt material, and spun the bolt out just as pretty as you'd please. Nice!!!
After I got the clutch out, I found this on the back side of the kickstart idler gear:
Shown beside it is the drilled out bolt, just for grins & giggles.
I'm going to assume that since this gear is pretty chipped up, and that my noise began immediately after I started the bike, that this is the problem, or part of the problem? I haven't yet figured out how to remove the kickstart shaft & it's related parts to see what sort of shape that's in. I ran out of time, and it's beginning to cool off outside again. I'll do some more searching & reading on that subject. Plus, I have this quote from member "jandyb", from post #77 in the "What Did You Do To Your Gas Gas Today?" thread:
Thanks Again, Fellas!
Jimmie
There must have been a lot of metal on the drain plug over the last few oil changes
If its the seal inside the master cylinder chances are you won't see any leeks it just won't build up pressure as the fluid passes by the plunger. I had a similar issue and it was the banjo bolt that connects the pipe to the master cylinder, it came slightly loose and sucked air into system, there was no fluid leaks on mine either
Any that were ridden hard cracked. That is the worse I`ve seen, usually it is noticed long before. I`d buy a new frame. Just changed an `09 out a year ago.
Thats the point i'm trying to make, why are they cracking if they are ridden hard, surely thats a fault in the design and gas gas should stand by their products. 1000 pound sterling for a new frame isn't a option for a 3 year old trials bike.
I'd weld some gusset plates between the tubes to make doubly sure.Some one's sure abused it in the past.Cracks that bad don't happen in one trial,what's the rest of the bike like.I'd check the rear shock mounts too,not unheard of for them to give out.Don't know your mechanical ability,if it's not good ask someone you trust to look it over,could end up a money pit,never seen one crack this bad unfortuneatly
I know the original owner and it has been trialed at a expert level and has a good few hours on it but it still should stand up to expert riding, thats what its designed for. It hasn't been dropped off a cliff or anything like that, just normal riding. The welder said the welds are flawed and thats why it failed.
Well gas gas UK was no help, got the aircraft welder at work to tig weld the cracks, it's holding well, got about 15hrs on it now since the repair, did some decent size drops and some big "ish" hits and all seems good. He did a amazing job of welding it up you really wouldn't know if I re powder coat the frame.
I feal your pain, my enduro bike does the same(PWK carb too). I found that using a funnel with a fine mesh screen helps, but every ride my jet is plugged too. Like to know the solution to this.
Has anyone else had this problem with the 09 frame, its cracked near the headstock on both sides on the lower 2 side tubes and the bottom 2 tubes that connect to the headstock under tank are also cracked.
I did try my little hammer operated impact driver, and got nowhere with that. The handful of Torx bits I had in the correct size got pretty rounded, so I gave up and drilled it out. I'm certain the chips were all captured in the liberal amount of grease I put on the drill flutes. I swabbed everything left with many cotton swabs, stuck my small pencil magnet tool in there, and even used my Shop Vac for good measure. The 1/4 inch left hand drill went a short ways into the bolt head, then "caught itself" in the bolt material, and spun the bolt out just as pretty as you'd please. Nice!!! 
Two Holes?
in Gas Gas
Posted
8 years ago, i'm sure its long gone now