arnottben

Folks, I've been using my MTB helmet light for riding my txt pro in the dark but I want to get a decent light for the front of it. Can anyone suggest a good light? would prefer something LED/Halogen rather than the big traditional one it came with (it's a 2004). Had a quick search around the net but wasn't getting anywhere. Cheers, Ben

Not sure about the clutch pal, but gas gas UK seems to be the best place to get spares, google them, get the number then just call them up and describe what you need. Ben

Hi folks, I have a 2004 TXT pro 280, I bought it fairly cheap and have been slowly fixing all the niggles it had. The clutch was dragging badly and slipping so I tried all the usual things...in the end I replaced the clutch pack, the clutch slave and master cylinder seals, the water pump seals (to rule out coolant contamination) and put it all back together with ATF type F oil. Took it out for it's first ride today and noticed I couldn't get up a steep hill that my friends were, and eventually realised the clutch was slipping under heavy load. The lever is set so it has free play at the end, i.e. the piston returning fully so it's not that that's the problem. One thing I did notice that was different about the new clutch pack is that when I assembled it in to the basket, the forks had no play in them, i.e. were stuck in position. Obviously they could be pushed in, simulating the clutch action. On the previous assembly the forks rattled about. This makes me think the clutch spring is not compressing the plates together enough in it's closed position and therefore slipping. I asked for the new pack to be factory thickness (9.75mm as i recall) and I, stupidly, didn't measure this to double check it actually was this size. I'm going to strip it this weekend, any ideas to help me along? Cheers Ben

Thanks, I checked the gas gas website and it seems like pretty much only the 2004 manual doesn't have torques! Most of the others do, sorted. Thanks.

Which viscosity of 300v have you guys been using? Have read a few times that it is not good to use fully synthetic oil. So much conflicting advice around!

Thanks guys. I'll stick some photos up I've been taking of the strip and rebuild if anyone is interested. I didn't get a manual with the bike, and the manual that is downloadable on the gas gas website doesn't have these tightening torques, any idea where to get a manual that does? Already been conned out of a couple of quid on the net for a 'workshop manual' which was just the owners manual Cheers, Ben

Hi there, Looking for some info to help with the rebuild of my gasser after doing a few repairs in the gearbox. Wondering: What thickness of gasket to use under the barell Tthe spark plug gap (manual says 0.6mm but trialspartsusa.com says 0.9mm) The tightening torque for the barell bolts The volume of gear oil, manual says 550cc but this seems to be too much Cheers, Ben

Great, I've changed the coolant before and it didn't seem to have any oil in it. I'll get a seal and change it just in case though, not worth the risk of damaging the new clutch for the sake of a cheap seal. Next question...gear oil volume..manual says 550cc, I've read 300cc on here, when I put 550cc it seems to come out the breather pipe until the level decreases. Should it be half way up the window when the bike is sitting vertically? 550cc covers it and more. Cheers Ben

Cheers for the replies guys. I will check his videos out. I appreciate it should be difficult to get in to neutral, however on this bike it is impossible while the bike is running and stationary (have checked idle speed too), and shifts like 2nd to 3rd are troublesome, sometimes taking 3-4 attempts (lots of rolling along pulling up on the lever, slowing down enough that the upshift is no longer needed! ). How do I check the springs under the clutch? I know the part you mean, I had a prod at it last time but couldn't determine anything. When I got the bike I drained the oil, it was a milky red colour, I've since changed it twice and it's come out clear each time. Cheers, Ben

Hello, New to this forum and to trials actually, have had a few MX bikes and am very much in to mountain bikes. Bought a 2004 TXT pro 280 from a friend for a good price...it's needed quite a bit of work so far though, but I don't actually mind and have enjoyed tinkering! There was a problem with the clutch, with it needing bled every time I went to use the bike. Changed the M/C and S/C seals, bled and it's fine now, and have just ordered a new clutch pack as the old one was measuring under 9.5mm and dragging. The gearbox is the next problem. It is very hard, almost impossible, to get the bike in to neutral when it is running. The only way I have managed is to put light pressure on the gear lever whilst rolling along slowly in 2nd, then sometimes it will click down in to neutral. However it is not easy. I know the clutch drag could be the problem so hopefulyl with the new clutch pack this problem will be sorted. The bigger problem though is that the bike will shift between 1-4th, sometiems not easily (repeatedly trying to shift up, lever moving but not selecting the gear) but when I get in to 4th and try to shift up, the lever will not budge. It will shift down again to 3rd easily, but will not move up at all. I think it has only started doing this in the last couple of months as I'm sure when I first got the bike it shifted up in to 5th and 6th ok. Anybody got any suggestions? And how do I get in to the gearbox? I've had the clutch side apart, but on the left side of the engine I've only taken the plastic cover off to reveal the igntition. Would happily tackle a gearbox rebuild if there was a guide on how to do it. Cheers, Ben