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Jim Snell and Adrian Lewis informed me that my daughter's 2002 Pro 200 was a model released for only 1 year with the Pro engine without the current clutch pack and slave cylinder; and with aluminium engine cases (not magnesium). The 2002 uses a number of TXT (AKA Edition) parts such as the air box. We've upgraded to the 2006 clutch. Since this bike has a California Green Sticker (allows us to ride all-year around) and uses the 2002 frame with a steeper rake; We've decided to keep it, and just upgrade with the S3 225cc kit, S3 High-compression head, S3 flywheel weight. Future planned mods may include the Keihin PWK28 and a S3 Long pipe, I've heard that the air box may be upgraded to the 2003-2007 design; but this may be for the 280, and 300 and not the 200. Can anyone verify? Can the (38mm ?) steel front fork tubes be replaced with aluminium tubes? What is a recommended jetting (@ Sealevel) for the 225cc kit? Any advice is greatly appreciated.

it seems that the internals and fork tube dimensions were the same in this Paioli model over the years. Paioli supplied the fork to GasGas, Beta, and Sherco. The evolutionary changes over the 2-decades were: the finish on the fork tube, design changes on the cross-brace/fender mounting bracket, the top of the slider was either fixed or in GasGas 1996- rotated off, and the adjustment knobs on top of the forks changed. I experimented with 5W and 7.5W at 330 cc on the Left (Spring/Preload) leg and could not tell a difference in compression dempening.The information I found on this forum argues that the passage orifices and end cone are so large that they don't offer much restriction in fluid flow between 5W and 10W fluid. I took 50cc out of the Left leg and could tell the difference (softeat bottom of the stroke) with the larger air gap. On the Right Leg with the Rebound cartridge, I could definitely tell thye difference between 5W and 7.5W suspension fuid. There was a diifference in end-stroke stiffness between the 280cc and 330cc.in the Right Fork leg.

Re: Paioli 38mm RSD forks (GasGas 1995-2001, Beta 2006-2010, Sherco 1997-2009) not Marzocchi 40mm Jim Snell and Bill de Garis both recommend 280cc 5W on the Right (Rebound) fork leg and 330cc 7.5W on the Left (Spring) fork leg. On this forum there's an opinion that the damper rod orifice are so large that changing the oil viscosity on the Left leg doesn't make much of a difference in compression dampening, but the air gap does affect the last 1/3 of the stroke. With this observation the opinion is oil in the Left leg at most helps lubricate, but doesn't have much on an impact on dampening. On another site: The Hell Team recommends Oil Quantity Right leg: 370ml 5W (+ or - 5cc) Left leg: 355ml 5W (+ or - 5cc) SUSPENSION _ FRONT FORKS. Here is a translation from the X4 Trials Team (Scorpa Italy) in Europe re front fork adjustment , it was specifically written for Scorpa Paoli Forks, but the concepts can be used across the board. Standard settings from Scorpa/Paoli for the 2007 Front Forks are: Left Leg (Pre-load): 4.5 turns Right Leg (rebound/Compression): 9 Clicks anti-clockwise (31 clicks in total - turn fully clockwise until stopped, then 9 turns back.) The Splat Shop says Sherco recommends: Right 5W 55mm air gap Left 5W 115mm air gap w/ springs in What are your recommendations for a 150 lbs. rider?

Thanks - I have viewed Jim Snell's video. I opened the clutch cover and inspected the shift cam; shifts up and down absolutely fine. Splitting the cases is still in my comfort zone, I just did my Gasser EC300. When the engine is running, and warmed up: shift up from 1st to 2nd is no problem, no false neutrals, but frequently cannot shift from higher gears back to 1st. Kill switch and dead engine: shifts right back into 1st. and neutral.

Need - Help 2002 TXT Pro 200 with clutch upgraded to 2004. I often have difficulty shifting down from 2nd to 1st gear. Clutch is fine 1st to 6th and back down, but I often cannot shift into 1st. Running Dexron III ATF. We first suspected damage to shifter mechanism, took apart to inspect, no issues. Replaced OEM shifter with a notched lever as 'breakaway insurance.' I've seen this video, but it doesn't describe my situation: http://smg.photobucket.com/user/2Ply/media/Gas%20Gas%20300%20Transmission%20Repair/GG-GearProblem.mp4.html Next step is to split the cases: replace shift linkage (part #14) and maybe shift fork?

I have the disc guard and washers in place, so I believe the 2 caliper mounting bolt tension is correct. Based on your response, what I am observing must be normal for AJP 2-piston calipers.

I just bled the front brake on a 1995 JT35 Contact. It seemed fine on the ride, but upon close inspection a few days after riding there is some brake fluid that appears to seep from the center line in-between the 2 caliper halves, Tightening the mounting bolts seemed to stop seepage from the partition line. I don't feel any change at the lever. Is this normal or do I have to rebuild the caliper? or should I just replace the caliper with a 4-piston unit? I spoke to Jim Snell, who feels that the 4-piston AJP doesn't provide much more braking capability, but is not as rigid. In fact he still uses the 2-piston caliper on his JTX despite access to aftermarket parts.

The PO ran Rock Oil. Response from Adrian at Lewisportusa was to go with Jon Stoodley ( JSE?) recomendation: 650cc 5W30; given his response on this thread we'll try Dexron ATF. I did find Yamalube 5W30 JASO-MA certified Dino oil: http://www.yamaha-mo...458/detail.aspx

Ryan Young has promoted Maxima MTL 75W for the Sherco which is a similar engine design. I just got off the phone with Gas Gas - Rotella and Amsoil came up. We're considering Rotella T - only a bit heavy at 15W40: need a good warm up, but that should be Standard Operating Procedure in 2-strokes to extend piston/cylinder life. Anyone try Maxima Snow 4T which is a JASO-FC Dino 5W30? http://www.maximausa...&products_id=10 or Maxima Premium4 JASO-MA Dino 5W30 http://www.maximausa...1&products_id=6 Sherco recommended Valvoline Syntec or Durablend 4T 10w-40 for the gearbox

I recently acquired a 1995 JT35. http://www.gasgasmot...ntact_jt_35.jpg Gas Gas http://www.Gas Gas.com/tech.htm recommends 650cc of 5W30 which seems to be difficult to find in a non-synthetic JASO-MA certified version. Gas Gas is also quite specific not to use Synthetic oils in the transmission/clutch. Modern synthetic motorcycle oils are not recommended in trials bikes which demands a lot from the feel of the clutch. I'm hesitant to try a 5W30 motor oil with friction modifiers designed for automobiles. I run ATF-F in my 2003 Pro, as recommended for the 'Pro' motor; but I don't think ATF-F is appropriate in the older motor. The Gas Gas JT35 motor was based on the older GT Contact, and used in the JTR/JTX/TXT and 'Edition' line all the way to 2004, with a similar design used by Sherco till 2009. Absolutely bullet-proof engine with the first 4 gear ratios for trials, and 5th/6th for trail riding. The same engine design was adopted into the Gas Gas Enduro and MX engines from the mid-'90s to present. Any recommendations for a 5W30 Dino oil without friction modifiers? BTW - On my Gas Gas EC300 I run 900cc of Rotella T (15W40) as recommended for the Rekluse clutch.