ok. In plain english (not american) you cannot be sure where water has got in when you pressure wash. It could get in several places where you dont want it, air filter for example where water borne dirt could enter the engine when started. Water in the electrics around head stock or in the ignition side and so on. Its bad practice and most who know anything about trials mechanics wouldnt choose to do. maybe youve been lucky but i wouldnt spend 6k on a bike and take a chance for an hour of fettling.
Im off now.
Rubbish. Jet wash carefully avoiding bearings and electrics. Airbox and exhaust blocked. START bike after washing to ensure it doesnt condensate in the engine. 30 years tried and tested.
Spoke to Andy, one of the tech's at gas gas uk and he said that the play is quite usual - not all bikes have it, but most do - even brand new ones.
He and another tech, Kevin, have looked into this on a new bike and decided that the play (providing all of the componant parts are good) is down to the combined play between the bolts and the bearings and the grease gap in the bearings.
So, the advice is ..... it is an inconsistant normality.
Thank you all for your help on this - much appreciated.
Thank you Rich and Oni ..... 6mm probably sounds about right, although I havent checked the top shock mount. Will have a look once the weekend kicks in. Cheers - Andrew
Thank you both for that. I tried to phone the GasGas UK tech dept today, but no answer ..... I just wanted to check that I didnt get the 'new apprentice' last time! Saying that, it is reassuring to learn that Zippy didnt get the play out with new bearings.
Will try GasGas tech again though, just for another opinion.
I am probably fussing, but I like things to be right on my bikes.
I have looked into this before by phoning gas gas uk, but seeking further opinions please. is it normal - when bike is on a stand, that there is a small amount of play in the linkage when lifting wheel - as it just doesnt seem right to me (although gguk said it was 'normal')
I don't want to chase the impossible (no play) if its normal, but I also dont want to cause further problems by leaving it if it isnt 'normal'
I have looked into this before by phoning gas gas uk, but seeking further opinions please. is it normal - when bike is on a stand, that there is a small amount of play in the linkage when lifting wheel - as it just doesnt seem right to me (although gguk said it was 'normal')
I don't want to chase the impossible (no play) if its normal, but I also dont want to cause further problems by leaving it if it isnt 'normal'
if it has the std pilot jet - a 25 - it will get blocked easily. In my experience, my 175 ran (and blocked up) badly on a 25, was better on a 27.5 and much better on a 30 .... this also means that blockages are far less frequent.
the carb o rings will make it run better, and it might be an idea to get a new plug cap ... the red rubber ngk ones seem to be bombproof (just snip the h.t lead back a bit before fitting)
I have finally destroyed the sidi couriers that I was using, so time for my first 'proper' trials boots.
The forma boulders look a good boot - any views on this boot, and is the sizing accurate? ..... loathe to buy boots off the internet and they don't fit.
on the carb side of things, its very well worth renewing all the old O rings in the carb; this made night and day difference in how my 175 ran, as did new reeds and an airfilter.
I know bugger all about the 250, but can confirm that 50:1 is what I use with castrol power 1 2t oil in my 175. its a good oil, and what I have used for years in trial, enduro and chainsaw engines.
I use castrol power 1 10w 30 for the gearbox after trying atf and putoline light gear oil. The castrol gives the best operation in my opinion - atf and putoline were both a bit 'juddery'
Many thanks for all your useful suggestions. I looked at the bike earlier today. wheel is back into its adjustment, so nothing to be gained there ..... whilst the bars are raised (15mm as it works out), it does allow more fork to be pushed up, and that is already done .... and the betor shocks are the longer ones and the pegs are the sammy miller jobbies - it looks like everything is as it can be, without doing the swing arm mod / moving shock mounts etc ..... so, the reality of the situation is that I need to get more talent and work around the 'problem' ...... as otherwise, its a great bike.
maybe my 6ft 2 inch 14 stone frame might be an issue, but I can't help that
Did my first trial in almost a year at the weekend and really enjoyed it ... my TY is spot on, aside from one annoying characteristic - it is light on the front and tends to rear up on hill climbs etc.
I fitted the twinshock shop triple clamp which helped a bit, as did raising the bars 20mm ........ Not mad keen on doing the swing arm extension modification.
Any other tricks to overcome this?
I tried my Mates Bultaco, and that felt really planted and only raised the wheel when it was intended.
I have put quite a bit of effort into getting the bike right, but this fault really has me thinking that I need a different bike.
blocked pilot jet. I went two sizes up from standard and its less prone to blocking. Is your tank interior rusty? .... cleaned mine out by leaving it soaking in vinegar then coke for a few days .... came up spotless (rinse with petrol afterwards though). agree with comment on the carb O rings ... they do go past their sell by date and new ones make a world of difference. Also, clean your exhaust out - this also makes a huge difference (I burnt mine out on a small bonfire .... smoked a bit!)
keihin tickover / air screws
in Gas Gas
Posted
Hello All,
a while since i have been on here (gas gas got stolen, and i have just got myself another one to replace it :-) ..... )
its a 2018/19 300, with a keihin pwk carb - anyone know where i can get some aftermarket easy adjust idle/air screws?
thanks