Montesa, You do not take the clutch off for oil changes, you have to remove the left cover for a filter chage, which is easy, otherwise, both transmission and engine oil have normal drain bolts.
The 260 is superb, has been vastly improved and is nothing like the old 250 and would be great for what you want. The beta is a great bike and feels really nice, but the suspension is nowhere near as good as the Monts, the Beta can be a bit temperamental , due to its overly complicated fueling/cold/hot start system, whereas the Mont has fuel injection which makes it very easy. If your buying new, buy with your heart, either one, you'll enjoy. Can you not arrange a test ride on both and make your own mind up, (it's a lot of money, so try before you buy)
funny, after set up and break in...all iv had to do, is add fuel. change the oil...and ride it...i live at high alt, and ride at low alt, as well,...never had to adjust anything..runs like a champ, more power then ill ever need..reliable..sweet looking. i did order and set this bike up the way i wanted...and for 5700 ft, for a 235 pound rider,
i set up the high alt carb spring, T pipe, dropped the front sproket down one tooth, added red springs, better brake pads. and added the 2 T rear fender...
after 3 oil changes, i swaped out the paper POS filter for a steel cleanable one, and use only motorex oil...clean the air filter every ride..
like any motorcycle..taking care of it is king..and buy what you like... you can get a new Beta for the price of a used Montesa.. i ride them 2 years, trade them in for a new model...
i never had a frame issue with my 09..springs were junk. easy enough fix. lots of great power, i added an S3 pipe. thick base gasket, smooth clutch, and changed out the cheap wheel bearings for quality ones..added grease zirks to the shock linkage...worked very well, id still be riding it, had i not up graded to a 2013 4T...
keep in mind...i dont jump off 20 ft rocks. or zap up 20 ft splatters...
id stay away from the techno parts are getting sketchy,...Rev 3 for a older novice would be a great choice. low and back pegs make the bike a dream to turn.
the Rev had some clutch issues..but most of that can be cured with quality oil, and avoiding ATF..
iv had a 2010 and now a 2013 4T 300, worth the extra money for the T pipe, and update springs...oil change is king, get ride of the paper filter for a stainless replacememt..
hard to beat the Rev, if maintained, and not had ATF run in it...
Evo is leaps and bounds improved..but handles more stable, 09 10 had frame issues,..ask if its been changed, if not, stay away..
like any used bike, how well they took care of it is king, careful on Pros bikes, some are taken care of, some are hammered...just look past new plastic..id rather have the original scratched bits, to see its battles then hide whats up...
to set timing the fly wheel {rotor} must be removed,
i set mine at 2.3MM BTC..
without out a TDC gauge its real tough to get that right on the money..
if all else fails. you can swap out a Ducati set up from a Zero, Alp or Synt..as long as you swap all the parts they work great.
however..if the lower hasnt been messed with, and you have great spark...likely you have a carb issue. the pilot jet is real small on these carbs...remove it, clean it very well. and give it a shot.
yes, the hole in the flywheel mates with a hole in the red stator.
been on a Beta since the TR32...to a 2013 4T...never had any issues other then crash damage..and thats not the bikes fault.
use the right oil.clutches work great.. and change it alot..every 6 to 10 hours.
the shock linkage is junk...but all the brands use the same POS set up that you cant grease unless you take it apart.. you can change this if you like, and they never go bad...
regulator on the Techno and Rev3 was cheesy, and not in a good place to change..
again, maintain your bike..and once a year, go through all the stuff you over look during the riding season...install a new air filter, and clean it after every event..
new spark plug avery 15 hours..need it or not...
clean the chain...and grease it with light duty grease..
replace the brake pads every season, replace the wheel bearings at the same time, and use rough service bearings rather then light duty..
drain and flush the forks every 20 hours, and use good fork oil..cheap aint good..
clean the spark arrestor if you have one, after every event...
flush and refil the cooling system when you have the bike down for winter..
never leave fuel in the tank for more then 3 weeks...
sounds like alot of BS>..but if you want your bike to last, and be reliable..no matter what decals are on the frame....maintain it... dont blame your bike on your pour wrenching...
Country Wide Trials Networking Map
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nice idea,,,,needs alot of updating...