tyrefryer

Thanks for all the comments, they've confirmed some of the conclusions I'd come to. I'm still not sure which option to go with yet though.

My 350 AJS currently has just a mesh covered intake on the 376 monobloc filter and I have been wondering if it might be an idea to fit a proper air filter to save wear and damage to the engine. If so which would be better, a chrome pancake with paper filter like this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/321657925837?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2648&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Or a K&N type cone filter attached to an adapter liker this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261504367267?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2648&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT and http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251859967712?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2648&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Any comments and advice would be greatly appreciated, thanks.

According to that link I posted you can pick it up from St Helens, Merseyside, UK, or have it delivered direct to your door anywhere in Britain or mainland Europe. I picked up an Aspen leaflet at the Stafford show and wondered what it was like so good to hear your reccomendation. The link on the leaflet is http://www.aspenfuel.co.uk

100 RON, ethanol free, leaded and unleaded petrol now available! (At a price though). http://www.ilovemg.org/?p=2443

I definitely agree on the Plastikote barbeque paint, I use it on barrels and heads and cure it in the kitchen oven. The cheapest place I've found to buy it in the UK is Wilkinsons, though they are now doing their own brand.

You can get the same results as vapour blasting by blasting with aluminium oxide and then blasting with glass beads, the aluminium oxide gives a clean matt finish ideal for painting but marks easily if left unpainted. The glass beads peen the surface to a silk finish that does not mark and can be left bare the same as vapour blasting. Vapour blasting uses glass beads but they are suspended in water, the only advantage of vapour blasting is that the item does not need to be degreased and cleaned as thoroughly so saves a lot of time in commercial application (but the setup cost is about £25,000). Use medium aluminium oxide and glass beads for sand cast items and fine for smooth or diecast items. Loads of useful info here http://angloscotabrasives.co.uk/

Hi Jon, yes I sent my cheque off to Terry and have also bought a new kickstart shaft. Hopefully when I get the lever I'll be able to have the bike ready to use (for now). Cheers!

I don't know if this has already been posted (I couldn't find it on a search) but Mitas are now manufacturing 4.00 x 19 trials tyres. Here they are from £60 each on Ebay http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_odkw=&_osacat=14780&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xmitas+19%22+trials+tyre&_nkw=mitas+19%22+trials+tyre&_sacat=14780

After a bit of research I've found Terry Weedy, http://www.terryweedy.com/classic-kickstarts.html And an excellent review on here http://jampot-spares.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=13085 Cheers.

Have sent you an email Deryk, thanks! It looks like the overly complicated and badly worn folding kickstart lever and mechanism I have is nothing to do with AMC bikes. I was going to build up the worn pads on the lever and holes with weld and grind/drill back but I don't think the spline is right anyway so I think I'll look for a new replacement. As yet I haven't been able to find a folding lever for a Burman B52 so if anyone knows where I might get one I'd be glad to hear, or if any alternative kickstart splines are the same? Preferably something similar to what would have been used on a trials bike of the period? Thanks.

Thanks Stan, that's very useful to know. Which museum are you referring to and is the bike on permanent exhibition there?

Ah right, thanks for confirming that Deryk.

Wow, just checked the Amal site and a Mk 1 Concentric is a lot cheaper than a Monobloc!

Hi Deryk, so do you mean remove the choke, It was and I've just been replacing it!? I quite like the Monobloc as (I thought) it's period and I have a bike with a pre-Monobloc and also one with a Concentric but I've never had a Monobloc before.

Thanks for the info on the shocks Jon, shouldn't I stick to a Monobloc because of the age of my bike though?

Thanks scramblebike, I'm enjoying learning about the marque and tinkering and I can't wait to start using it.

Thanks Deryk that's excellent info, I'll have a measure up tomorrow and give Norman a call.

Thanks again for the info and advice Deryk, I'll have a search for some shorter shocks. Is it best to stick with Girling gas shocks and how should I determine the best length? Thanks, Martin.

Thanks Jon, I've ordered the slipper and am now making a list of the cables I need to replace and sorting out the controls while I'm waiting for it to arrive. The choke is missing, the valve lifter was in the wrong place and the cable was broken and I've moved the mag retard control to the left instead of the right where the choke lever is going.

Thanks totalshell and Derek that's all interesting stuff, I'm beginning to get a much better understanding now. I initially thought that the problem was due to the swingarm angle being pushed down by the shocks being too long but I have a copy of Classic Bike from January 1982 featuring the Gordon Jackson AJS. In the pictures that has what I thought were the same rear shocks and the swingarm angle looked the same as mine (parallel with the bolted on tube under the seat) but there isn't a picture of the drive side of the bike. However it's now apparent (thanks to a member on the AJS and Matchless forum) that the Gordon Jackson shocks are 12 coils and mine are longer at 14. And possibly the rear wheel was a 19" in 1982? I'll start with a slipper for the swingarm and then consider a larger rear sprocket and maybe shorter rear shocks. I have to check but I thought the rear sprocket was part of the brake drum and not separate? (A member on the AJS forum was running a 50 tooth rear sprocket). Cheers.

Just found these on Ebay, are they the sort of thing you mean? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UNIVERSAL-CHAIN-SLIPPER-PRE-65-TRIALS-PROJECT-BIKE-TIGER-CUB-ARIEL-HT-C15-b-/400584932464?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item5d44b8fc70 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UNIVERSAL-CHAIN-SLIPPER-PRE-65-TRIALS-PROJECT-BIKE-TIGER-CUB-ARIEL-HT-C15-/161194768070?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item2587f4f6c6 Cheers.

Thanks for that, I did wonder if something like what I've got on my Sherco swingarm might be the answer. Is "nirte" what it's really called or is that a typo and where can I pick some up? Cheers, Martin.

Hi everyone, I've just bought my first AMC bike which is an AJS 16 that's been built as a trials (style) bike. A fair bit has been done to it but there is also a lot I need to sort out and improve upon. The plan is to use it for some road trials like the Arbuthnot, some rides out with my local VMCC sections and a bit of playing around at my trials club's local practice ground. I'm not looking to use it for serious pre-65 competition use. From what I can tell so far, it's quite a bit of a bitsa. I believe the frame is a 1959 but the engine may be earlier as it has a pressed steel primary chaincase and magneto with manual retard control. I was also told that the crankcases are from a G80. I'd be happy if anyone can shed further light on what I have. I've started sorting through all the immediate problems I can, I've adjusted the primary chain tension, re-assembled the gearbox adjuster the right way around, corrected the timing and adjusted the carburetor so that it will run. However there is one major problem I need to sort out before I can start using the bike. The rear chain is way too loose and the rear wheel is adjusted as far back as it will go but before I shorten the chain I need to sort out why the rear chain is rubbing on top of the swing arm where it pivots in the frame. This has obviously been happening for some time as there are shallow grooves worn in the swingarm by the chain. The cause for this amy be due to any of the following or a combination of more than one: 1. The gearbox sprocket is 16 teeth. 2. The rear wheel sprocket is 42 teeth. 3. The frame and swingarm are from a road bike as far as I'm aware. 4. Girling gas shocks have been fitted. 5. Aluminium engine plates have been made up and fitted. The pivot point of the swingarm seems too high compared to the gearbox and rear sprocket. I've looked at pictures of other AMC trials bikes and the angle of the swingarm and length of the rear shocks look the same as mine? Also the mounting of the gearbox on my bike doesn't look any lower? Also I understand that the gearbox and rear wheel sprocket sizes I have are the same as was standard for trials bikes? If anyone can advise me on what could be wrong I'd be really grateful because at the moment I'm stumped! Thanks for reading, Martin.

Well thanks for all the input, the problem was in fact down to me using one tube with no hole connecting the float bowl vents. After cutting this into two seperate tubes it started and ran and after adjusting the mixture and idle screws it seemd to be running fine though I have yet to test ride it. Hopefuly cleaning and stripping the carb, cleaning the tank, installing new fuel pipe, filter and fuel have cured what was the problem in the first place.

Doh! Thanks for that guys, I'll rectify the breather pipes and give it another go. Cheers.