Na its straight. When i pull the slack out the lever the brakes work just fine. Its like the piston is pushed in and wont return. The spring is still there so the lever comes back and with it all the slack.
Yes best to buy a seal kit, it comes complete with plunger. You need an 11mm spanner to disconnect the hydraulic hose, fix the hose upright so air doesn't get in, then strip the master cylinder on the bench.
Before removing the circlip, clean any crud round that area, then After removing the circling and washer, if the plunger is stuck it can be pushed out with a small screwdriver from the oil outlet end.
Then just clean everything before assembly!
Well i need a seal kit anyway as the cone boot is knackered. From what i can see on the UK shops the seal kit is just the rubber boot and the rubber seal in the cap. Since ive got about a week or so, i might drain the fluid, remove the master cylinder and follow those steps before ordering anything. Hopefully i will see something trapped or worn
If there is load of free play with the adjuster right in, it may be the the master cylinder piston is not fully returning out, so limiting the stroke of the piston.
Remove the brake lever and the rubber boot and you should see that the hollow end of the piston (with the small spring stuck in it) should stick out beyond the washer and circlip. If not push in and out a few times and see if it returns fully. If not you need to strip and clean the master cylinder and maybe fit a seal kit.
Main cause of the problem is a failed rubber boot allowing water/muck into the outer space round the piston end. If you also need a Jitsie or similar rubber boot kit make sure you get one for a Grimeca master cylinder, as others will not fit properly.
Hope this helps!
Hi,
i took a look yesterday again. Pads and calliper are good. Levers are adjusted all the way in. I took it off and could see the spring but couldn’t see where the cup and pin is pushing against. I cleaned and lubed it but it’s still stuck inside. The boot is knackered so I think your right. Is it a service and seal kit I need then?
I was hoping someone can help me with what i need to fix here. The front brake on my beta evo is playing up. They work fine but there is a load of empty slack on the first part of the lever. The adjusters are all the way in. Its like there is a load of empty slack not in the lever as the piston moves in. I pulled off the front wheel and im pretty sure the pads are good. A while back i stripped and cleaned down and it was better but its back to crap again
Ive heard mixed feedback of people getting their 09 frames and swingers replaced. Some places want to see a fault and some are jsut replacing them as a preventative measure. Are there any places that someone is willing to share that is leaning towards the latter? Im almost certain my swinger is cracked and jsut want it all sorting in one go really.
I'd ridden Cowm on my scorpa all day and it sipped fuel. I was jsut paranoid about the smell of fuel all day and was hunting for a cracked frame and fuel leak. I guess i should hve fueled up after 2 laps. We took so long on the first lap we just cracked on before it got dark. I wont make the same mistake again. Dropping a 3 or even 5 on a section cleaned all day.
I did my second trial on the weekend with my 09 evo 250. Absolutely loved it despite it being very muddy and slippy. I fell on my ass twice just walking back to the bike to ride a section. I started 11am with a full tank of petrol. 10 sections which were small and 4 laps. The times i put the bike down i turned off the fuel and all day i could smell strong petrol smell. Being an 09 i was paranoid about a snapped frame and looking for cracks but found nothing. I couldnt see anything out of the overflow at the time either. At about 2:30 i ran out of fuel on a hill climb. I switched to reserve to finish just 3 sections and rode back and rand out of the reserve too!
Im pretty sure my first trial i didnt have the same problem but i guess ill check the float height as a start.
Well I installed the correct ones last night. For anyone attempting this and doesn't know let me share a tip albeit obvious to most. On my KTM it was possible to move the inner spindle just out the way to get a drift in from the other side. On the beta this was not the case but it was possible to fit a smaller socket to the inside of the bearing and hit the lip of the spindle to knock the bearing out on the other side. I applied heat to the other side before bashing away.
So i bought this 2009 Evo in the knowledge that i knew about the problems and that i would be able to get them sorted still. When i viewed it i saw the below and thought it could jsut be normal or dirt. Lampkins said they will only replace the frame if its leaking fuel, is this the common consensus?
I checked the swingarm and found that on the underside underside the cups there was some silicone sealing one of the welds. I didnt want to pick it off to look for cracks as i had a trial the next day. Is this norm or should i rip it out to look?
A guy also told me that the standard codes will likely say 2RS (2 rubber seals) he said always pay more and get the 2SS (2 stainless seals) and you wont have to worry about them for longer.
I just picked up a clean 2009 evo 250. Yes its the snappy frame and swinger model but it looks ok to me for now
The rear wheel bearing needs sorting out do i got the part number from the parts list 61904. Thinking back to when i did my KTM i was told to buy a decent third party bearing to the same spec. Then i was told to buy the full KTM kit which included dust covers and the internal spacer.
Whats the craic with these then? Just grab a decent make one from Ebay orr off to the stealer?
Anything else i should watch for or have spare in my toolbox? BTW the map switch, 1 is full power right?
My current trials iron is a Scorpa SY 250. I enjoy riding it but it feels like a bit of a lump after using a Beta Evo 4t on a trails experience day. Im 5'7 and about ahem, top end of 13st so assumed id be looking for a 250. My other bike is a KTM 200 EXC and is more than capable for me. Should i stick to a 250 or might a 125 have enough power to play with?
I bought a pit bike seat off Ebay for £6. With a bit of fettling, it's held on with reusable tie wraps. I can't remember what pit bike it was for, but there's quite a few that look like they could be made to fit.
The wife fancies a day out on the scorpa while I'm on the ktm. Does anyone know of a cheap way of getting a seat pad on there that isn't too low? I'm sure I read about a small cc mx bike seat 'working'
That's good to know. I should be one of the first people to get my leg over the free-rider so i'll put up a post when its here. There is a cracking little MTB track not far away from me. My plan is to use that when its quiet.
To a total newbie, here is a good write up on lipo's
All the information for a shopping list is within this thread ( im sure it is ) with all the relevant information about the batteries that are needed from hobbyking ( just go to the HK web site and look at the batteries that you need).
You can P 7ah battery with a 12ah battery ( as long as they are the same voltage ) always look at the higher ah battery as the same ah's as the lower one i.e 7ah in P with a 12ah = 14ah
The free rider is lithium but I doubt it very much that it will be lipo , more than likely to be lifepo4, so it will be slightly different.
Thanks for that. so I could do with tracking down another 12v12ah battery. If ive understood, adding just one 12v7ah will drop the lot down to 7ah. If I can get a set of 3x 12v12ah and then had 6 x 12v7ah I would think that would be enough to keep him going for a while and I wouldn't need to move to lipo yet.
For the free-rider. im sure its lipo, I quizzed the CEO a while back and he didn't correct me when mentioning LiPo. He said it will have a BMS to allow safe charge and discharge of the batteries. The batteries are in a unit inside the bike and are not meant to be removed for charging. I cant wait to have a go on this thing. I only hope that the power and runtime of it lives up to my expectations.
Gwhy, you live in the UK? have you had any problems using either of your ebikes? They are of course more subtle so can be ridden in more places but im sure you can still earn a section 59 if you are in the wrong place at the wrong time.
This is a great thread but I have to say im still uncertain about what to do. I get the whole series boosts V, parallel boosts Ah. Most of the links to the batteries are not available anymore from HK. For convenience (or utter laziness) would someone be able to make a kit list for 24v and 36V bikes with all the bits and pieces. My sons 36v kuberg trial e should be here soon and I want to make sure he gets his use out of it.
Incidentally, I have a stash of batteries in work (from a UPS, I work in IT). would they work? Ive got 6 x Yuasa NP7-12 (12v,7ah) and 2 x gsb gp12120 f2 (12v,12Ah). From what ive understood from this thread I could series the 12v7ah batteries in 3 to get the 36v but then its still only 7ah. The standard kuberg SLA setup is 9ah. Saying I cant find any more of the 12v12Ah batteries could I series that up with the 7ah one? im guessing not......
Ive got a few of IBM/Lenovo laptop PSU's, im sure I read they can be used as PSU's for the chargers too.
Luckily the free-rider ive got on order comes with lipo as standard so it should be easy to replicate that setup...
Beta evo front brake
in Beta
Posted
Na its straight. When i pull the slack out the lever the brakes work just fine. Its like the piston is pushed in and wont return. The spring is still there so the lever comes back and with it all the slack.