zzman

Great info! I think a previous owner may have installed the kickstarter with thread lock or it was a press fit because I need to use a puller to take it all the way off.

That is way too funny!!! I get it!!!!

Well it took me 1.5 hours to take off the kick starter, but that is a story for another day. The starter assembly looked fine and the clutch seemed to rotate ok but the crank was locked. I pulled the ignition side cover and found corrosion just like Eddie1 said! I was able to get it free using a feeler gauge as a scraper, but I still want to pull the fly wheel off to clean it properly. It appears that the trials bikes take a different flywheel puller than the GG enduro bikes. Can anyone confirm it is a 27x1 right hand thread puller or give me a cross over? Thank you all for the help!

That is great info to save time and cash. Thanks again.

That sounds like a good plan. Thank you.

In neutral it rolls just fine. With the spark plug out it is still locked solid and it does not budge at all.

I did pull the plug and it looked fine. I would normally have take care of this already, but I have been busy with rebuilds on 3 other GG enduro bikes so the trials bike will need to wait her turn. Is there an easy way to tell if mine has the updated shift drum?

While it was inside it was not heated. Sounds like I have some work to do.

Thank you for the info. We did not wash the bike but it did get rained on pretty well on the way home from WV. Do these ingest water that easily?

Hello all, This spring we went to Logan, West Virginia to ride the Hatfieldd McCoy trails. We were riding the enduro bikes and my son wanted to ride the trials bike one day. We were doing easy trail riding for about 15 miles. I knew we would ride some faster sections so I added a little more oil than recommended so my ratio was about 60:1. At one point I switched bikes with my son and I rode the TXT and it ran great! We loaded it back up on the trailer and did not ride it again until we took it out a couple weeks ago. I went to start it and the kickstarter would not budge. I put the bike into 3th gear and rocked it back and forth and it is locked solid. I read about the cold seize issue so I warmed the cylinder with a torch and it is still locked solid. I have not opened the engine yet and I am looking for some guidance. I find this really odd as it ran perfectly last time we had her out. I am the third owner of this bike and I am not sure if it has been upgraded with a new shift drum. We have been very careful with both the shifter and kickstarter as we have been told they are fragile on this year. Any thoughts and guidance would be greatly appreciated.

The previous owner said he ran the Auto Trac 2 for the 5 years he owned it so I think I am safe with it. I hear it is a very good oil. I paid $8.90 for a liter. I rode it today for a bit and it is really a nice bike!

I informed both boys that this bike needs to be shifted with extreme care. I believe we will enter a trials event in the spring.Thank you all! I really appreciated the detailed information and suggestions.

Thank you for the great details! I purchased from the 2nd owner and he rode it a few times a year as a trail bike. He claimed he never had a problem with it. He did not have any details from the original owner other than to run the GM Auto Trac II oil in the trans. I will try to track down the bike from the VIN through the shops in the area. I might get lucky and see if there is some history on the bike.

So it might make sense to drill some small holes in the shifter to creat the weak link in an effort to save the expensive parts inside the trans? My father did this on his Bultaco bikes in the early 1970s.

Is it likely that the 02 Pro models were under a microscope because they were new / different and a few issues seemed like a big deal compared to the non Pro models that were super reliable?

I have been riding off road for 35 years and I pretend to ride trials on our four GasGas enduro bikes and the 2006 Sherco 2.9 I purchased earlier this year. I truly love to ride slow and technically challenging terrain. My son and I had a blast playing follow the leader between the Sherco and TXT last weekend! While I hope we will enter some tials events I am sure we will spend more time using both the Sherco and GG TXT PRO as fun limtied range trail bikes. My 14 yrs old son wants to use either of the trials bikes in an upcoming family enduro that has three mild, dry, 10 mile loops through the trees. Gas will likley be an issue but we did get the Hebo numberplate extra tank with the 280 that should get us through and if not I can share gas with him. This is not the intended purpose for a trials bike but it is probably how we will use it from time to time.

Thank you all for the great information. I did some additional searching and found general comments on reliability but I did not find too many details on specific failures. What is a reasonable price for this bike in good condition?

Hello All, I am relatively new here and I would appreciate your input. I just purchased a 2002 TXT 280 Pro that appears to have had little use over its life. From my research of the past posts, it looks like this specific bike has had high failure rates of the trans, clutch and you need to start it correctly to prevent failures. With the small trans oil capacity I need to change oil more very often. We purchased the bike for a very good price as it was not running and needs tires. I cleaned the carb and changed fluids over the weekend. It started up with little effort and it is a very nice running bike. The old trans oil looked good and the clutch seems to work just fine. The only thing I notice is a little gear noise shifting between 3rd and 4th, until the 4th gear is fully engaged. I suspect that we should always use the clutch, not shift under high throttle for this gear change due to the large ratio difference. So my question is should I dump this bike and run or ride it and take a chance? Is the reality of the situation that it will fail or it might fail? If I do run into the trans failures are the replacement parts going to fix the problem going forward or will this be an ongoing issue? I can do the work myself, but can someone give me an idea of the expected parts costs for the potential failures for this bike. I do not have any long term history other than the previous owner who had it for 7 years and never had issues with the bike. Thank you for your time and input.

According to the parts info on Nofives.com both the front and rear wheels use a 6004 2RS like Copemech said.