Just a quick note, have you replaced the damaged HT lead (spark plug lead) if it has cut into the lead and the conductor is damaged you could get a week spark that will not spark when under compresson.
Not yet, but I will soon. New one is on the way, also a stator and CDI from SplatShop.
Tired of messing around with this now ignition should be covered.
Chris at Splatshop sent me a helpful email so I will share here for the benefit of others as it answers the
question I had about the readings from the stator.
Too be honest though looking at your test readings it looks like the stator might be ok, usually when they fail
and the bike won't start one of the Blue, Black or Brown wires shows either a short circuit (0) or a open circuit (1),
occasionally you get them reading correctly and they still don't run
but usually if they read ok they will run or spark intermittently.
I've asked him about testing the hall sensor as I am still wondering about that, will post his response (if any)
Here is his response about the Hall sensor, so it seems you can test them;
Yeah the reading from the Blue, Black or Brown wires are from the circuit board containing the Hall sensors but very occasionally (5% ish) they do still test ok but have a intermittent fault, these usually still run just badly. If they test bad i.e. a short circuit (0) or a open circuit (1) then they are always broken.
Values courtesy of Splat Shop but will post here if perhaps someone in the future stumbles onto this thread with a similar issue;
Testing and checking your Sherco stator plates, only applicable to the Leonelli stators from 2002 to 2007.
The trigger, using the diode check mode on a multi meter, you should get reading something like this, don't worry about exact numbers if it is somewhere in the same region.
Using the red lead to the plug terminals and black to earth. Blue no reading (sometimes shown as 1 or error) Brown 1000 to 1600 Black 1050 to 1650
Using the leads the other way around i.e. black lead to the coloured wires, red to earth. Blue 600 to 730 Brown 650 to 770 Black 650 to 770
Also test the resistance's of the other coil wires, leads either way around. White to red 95 ohms Red to green 550 ohms Green to white 640 ohms
I was out riding my 04 Sherco 2.9 yesterday and all was well it had been running like a top all evening.
I was done riding and was headed back home in fourth gear and all of the sudden the engine just cut off completely.
It will fire but only briefly and will not run for more than a second or so even then only very occasionally.
I changed the plug, cleaned the carb and it's acting the same way.
It's not a fuel issue as it was not changed and will act the same if I kick it and spray new fuel through the carb with the airbox removed.
Although I've not tested with a compression tester it kicks hard and sure seems to have plenty of compression also this problem happened almost instantly
and it had ran perfectly up until it shut off. I did remove the exhaust and had a look at the piston and ring and they look as new.
Reeds looked fine as well.
Anyway, The spark looks to me to be very weak and I suspect the problem is with ignition.
I've read Sherco's can have ignition issues but it looks like I need a special tool (that I don't have) to have a look under the flywheel.
I'm thinking about just taking it somewhere local because I want it fixed ASAP and I am busy running my business all week.
I am a little worried they won't know where to get parts or whatever else...
Is it an issue taking these bikes to a shop that works on the standard Japanese motocross bikes and the like?
Thanks for the warning, I had not thought of that. Broken wrists would not be a good thing.
I am def pretty bruised up from falling but nothing really bad yet. biggest issue is my hands are like hamburger with blisters will be easier when they toughen up.
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Wow... he makes that bike look like it weighs 15 lbs