jlpar

HaHa, Nice one Guys!

All the best for the Christmas season lads. Thanks for all the help so far. Larry.

Lorenzo, I think you may be on the right track re. wheel re-build. Either I get them done by an expert (probably expensive) Or maybe I could replace them one by one. ie, remove one, replace, move on to the next. Would that work? Re. what agent told me back in the day. I'll put the micrometer on them in due course and report back.

This may seem a bit far out but is the tag from the condenser a bit near the armature. It seems to be in the pic. maybe it might be shorting, A long shot I know.

Thanks to Lorenzo, Woody, Matador for advice. Larry has found me a gear so I think I'm sorted on that front. Regarding the spokes, as I said earlier, when I enquired years ago when there was an agent for Bultaco spares here, I remember being told that new spokes were 12 gauge and the ones on my bike were 10 gauge. Is this correct and if so would the lighter spokes be ok? Larry.

Thanks Larry, I was wondering where everyone had gone for a while! But there's other interesting stuff going on here so guys can't be replying to everything. I much appreciate you following up on the gear. If all comes to all I will see if I can find a suitable machine shop. Larry.

Any feedback on the cog? Its going to be critical to the rebuild, Also, is it possible that a frame can get out of the factory without a frame number? Lar.

Guys, Any views on the spokes. There is one loose one on the rear and a few pretty loose on the front and some missing. would it be better to replace all? I remember being told years ago when I enquired about replacing some spokes that the older heavier spokes were not available anymore and I would have to replace them with lighter, modern spokes. Is this the case? Larry.

Ok, did what Steve said and it comes out at 27 teeth. Bult360, the diameter is 58mm and width is 9mm according to my electronic calipers which doesn't have a battery! So I'm going on the visual scale but I think it's pretty spot on.

Steve, why didn't I think of that! I'll get on to it right away.

I have stripped off all the paint off and rubbed down the frame and cannot find a number anywhere. I also checked the punch marks I mentioned before and they don't obscure any numbers as they are much smaller than I think the numbers would be. Is this usual? I attach some pics. I presume soda blasting is the best option to clean engine and wheels. I wonder what to do about the spokes. If I replace the lot I have no idea how to go about it except to remove and replace one at a time. Any pointers? As regards the third gear cog I don't seem to be able to estimate 29 teeth. Are there different sizes? Larry. I think I may have done something with the first part of this post so you may need a magnifying glass to read it!

Thanks to you both, great to be able to access that kind of knowledge. Tried the link Lorenzo but it wouldn't work but never mind, I'll do the Google thing. Good to know the bike hasn't been messed with. Thanks for now lads, Larry.

Lads, I have looked through images of M10's and all have the cylinder head fins aligned north, south but mine are radial as in the picture. Is this usual? I cannot find any pictures of this type of head. Perhaps its from another engine. Any views on this? Another question about the rear shocks. Mine have chrome? sleeves on top. Were these supplied as standard? Probably unlikely to be obtainable now. Can one get the shocks without the springs? Last question, where would one get a workshop manual for the M10. You know what they say, when all else fails, read the instructions! Many thanks in advance, Lar.

Thanks Ralph, Sounds a likely explanation of the headstock letters. When I found the other marks I thought it may have been a vice too but yes, they are much too deep as that much pressure would have deformed the tube. I think Lorenzo's theory is the more likely though would the frame No. be stamped on both sides?

Guys, I have to make clear that I have never ridden in a trial in my life so I feel a little out of place and a bit of an imposter among all of you. The chap who gave me the bike was involved and made me aware of what was involved. I used the Sherpa on my farm quite a lot for tasks that would now be fulfilled by the modern day quad. It got quite a bit of use but it became a bit of a nuisance when it became difficult to start when hot. That contributed to the broken gear as the clutch cable broke when I was down the fields and rather than stop the bike I decided to ride it home. I was going grand until I didn't get the revs right when changing down. So that was the end of that - until now. So that's my potted history. Anyway, a bit of progress, I removed the bottom yoke and spindle, there's a bit of play in the bottom bearing. Top one is ok. It will be a bit difficult to remove the inner part of the bottom bearing as it is stuck pretty tight on the spindle but I reckon I'll get the better of it. The rear fork spindle is putting up a fight but I am pumping easing fluid (WD40,sorry Lorenzo!) in through the grease nipple hole and have got it turning but it is fighting hard. Excuse the rambling!

Sounds like a likely explanation about the frame Lorenzo. You're probably right about the handlebars too but I find it very hard to discard original parts- a bit daft I know, its just in my makeup. I'll give that some thought. Its the mainshaft pinion, part no.311-004, 29 teeth (Thanks Stuart!) it broke in half. Another question, how does one remove the steering shaft from the headstock? Soak in WD40 and assault with a blunt instrument or is there a more subtle method? Ditto the swing arm bolt.

Received with thanks Stuart, that will be a great help. I am posting photos of the letters on the headstock. There were what seemed to be a series of punch marks on the side of the bottom yoke but when I stripped the paint off the other side there were the same marks in the same place opposite. Not sure what that's about as they must have been put there before painting. On another point, would it be better to re-chrome the handlebars or fit new ones?

Thanks for the pointers Bultacosd. I'm currently stripping the paint off so I'm keeping a lookout for marks as I go. It was hand painted at some stage so there's a couple of layers to remove and I bought some environmental type stripper. I reckon spit would work quicker! Back to the good old Nitromors. As far as restoration, I generally restore cars leaving some evidence of a past life. I other words, I don't seek perfection. So we'll see how we go. I be checking back here for advice as I progress. Any views on the letters on the headstock? Attaching another pic of bare frame. I'm going to ask a silly question here, where and what is the top yoke?

This gets more interesting. I checked the frame in detail today. I stripped the paint off the headstock but can find no serial number. However, I did find a large letter C stamped on the right side and a large B stamped on the front. No other marks that I can find. From what you tell me Stuart, the engine was fitted in a later frame at some stage. From reading other posts, this seems to be quite a common occurrence. Although the original owner as far as I can estimate would have only owned it for about 4 years before passing it on to the guy who gave it (yes gave!) it to me and as far as I know he did not trial it. I have had the bike for about 40 years(why do these projects take so long to get started?) I will be asking in due course for some tips on the restoration process hopefully without boring you all to death!

Thanks again Stuart. The tax book gives the tear of manufacture as 1968 but you are probably right that it was probably imported some time previously. It was first registered on 10/10/68. I'll try and post photo's although I'm not great at this.

Many thanks for the info Stuart. I checked the engine number and it is M100 1275. The original road tax book which I have gives the frame no. as B100 275 but for the life of me I can not find any number on the frame. Where is it normally stamped? You seem to be in the same boat as myself as I'm trying to restore a Lotus Elan +2 but funds are tight so I reckon the bike must go if I can make it respectable without interfering with its originality. I am based in Wicklow, Rep. of Ireland. I think Trailie has the right idea re. third gear, I think I can get a new one cut as I have the original (it broke in half). BTW. I had to change my name here as I forgot my logon details, Age is a terrible affliction!