Clean it a bit. I have marked all my forks so I place them back in the same manner. Small dot on the top yoke and on the fork tube with a shizzle.
Remove wheel/brake/front fender.
Loosen the top yoke alen screws. Loosen the top caps a bit (only because later this is more difficult. Loosen the other 2 allen screws and remove the fork.
Remove the top cap and alen screw on the bottom and let the fork empty its old oil. Push it in and out to remove the last bit of oil.
Remove dust cap with a screw driver or something (if you have plastics). Remove the small spring whichs holds the seal. Now push on the inner leg and the seal will come loose.
Clean everything and reversly put it back together.
/only after typing this I thaught of the idea to post a link to a film of jim which explains it probably way better and more clear. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AP-v_c0g0mw
That video states "not Marzocchi 40mm" so not sure how much help that would be.
It's pretty frustrating because I'm a mechanical engineer so can do most things once I've been shown once but just don't have anyone to show me lol
Thanks very much, any idea what weight oil I should be using? I weigh 80kg (on a bad day) and like bouncing around. Also how much oil to fill each leg? Admittedly I've not watched the video yet as I'm at work with poor mobile internet so if it's covered there apologies.
OK it's been pressurised for over 22hrs now and no leakage anywhere?! I guess all I can do is fit my new disc and pads when they arrive and see what happens.
Depending on year/master cylinder type, some used to have a poor finish to the master cylinder bore ports, the rough edge would cut the seal, the fluid would by pass the seal so would not build pressure, there would also be no leaks externally.
I've had a few occasions after dropping a bike the brake or clutch become inoperative due to me pulling either lever when picking the bike up, this was because the fluid was below the inlet port so only gulped air into the system.
It's a 2012 with AJP master cylinder, that likely to have that issue?
I need some main fork and dust seals ('12 GasGas 300 with 40mm Marzocchi forks), most of the trials websites and eBay don't seem to state the seal brand so I assume they are just selling cheap generic seals? The Pyramid Parts website does the whole kit for £17 but I've read that the seals can be junk. The only other branded seals I've found are SKF but they are about £50 IIRC for a full set of main and dust seals. So what are you lot in the UK buying?
One thing you could try is to put paper towel around the caliper and master cylinder and cable tie the brake lever to the handlebar so the system is under load. Leave it overnight and check the paper for any signs of a leak the followng day.
When you noticed the problem was there any fluid on the floor or on the bike anywhere? Also did you notice if the reservoir level had dropped much?
That's a good idea, didn't notice any oil no as my garage is carpeted so the carpet would have soaked it up also reservoir was pretty full tbh.
No I've not found the issue yet and yes good shout about sorting the system with the old disc and pads in I'll definitely do that. Just checked the bike and its still heing pressure from when I bled it yesterday, going to be pretty hard to diagnose a leak that only sometimes leaks.
While on the subject what's the best method of bleeding the front using a syringe? Pretty sure I've don't it OK but never hurts to see what other people are doing.
Just taken my front disc off for the first time (bought the bike used) and found some silicone around each of the bolt spacers. Would this be to stop squeak/vibration?
Basically I went to take my bike out yesterday and found my front brake had no pressure at all even though it was fine when I last rode it a few weeks ago. So I bled it out but in the process the hose popped off and spilt fluid on my disc and pads! So, had a go at them with some wet and dry but they are squeaking real loud and not gripping so I got in a mood and ordered a new disc and a set of pads.
So what can I check when rebuilding with regards to the fact the whole system just lost pressure and also should I be adding silicone to the disc bolt spacers again?
FYI the brake was super strong before it lost pressure.
I've tried all that but whenever I hit refresh it just logs me out again, regardless of how I navigate from the login page back to the forum/thread it more often than not just signs me out regardless, it's the sole reason why I hardly post here at all as sometimes it can take me 20mins to actually login!
This is 100% not an issue on my end as its exactly the same on my home PC (IE and Chrome), my works PC (IE and Chrome) and my iPhone (Safari, Chrome and Opera)
I have faced this issue many times, and found it to be cured by a very detailed carb cleaning. In particular, removal of the tower that holds the jets and the clearing of the port (very small) that connects the outlet of the carb throat to the bottom of the tower. The port as I said is very small, and I use a number 79 gas orifice drill bit to clear it - am unsure of the metric size - and have in all cases had the problem solved.
While in there clear all of the small ports and all should go well. I will post pictures for those interested in the next couple of days.
I have a REAL hard time replying on this forum as it just won't stay logged in! Anyways, all info has been passed on, I think air leak test came up negative, pilot was incorrect so that's been changed and the float has probably been checked yet again. We're going out today for a few hours so we'll see if anything has improved.
So in neutral you lift the back wheel up and it stops? Immediately?
No, when the rear wheel is lifted the bike more often than not drops idle and stalls. If we up the idle to compensate for this then when the bike is level its idling too high.
And also the bike seems to need constant idle adjustment throughout the day just to keep it running.
spray flammable compressed liqiud around like easy start or hair spray to areas around engine and see if the revs pick up ,,, dont let it get to air filter side ,, remove flywheel cover and check crank seal area with spray
Oh yes of course that makes perfect sense. If it was an air leak though wouldn't it be more consistently hanging revs and high idling? As it seems very random at the minute.
Pretty sure it's not electrical as again today the idle revs were all over the place, it needed constant adjustment, one minute its low so gets adjusted back up then 10mins later it's high again so needs lowering again. Float level was adjusted yesterday but this time it was set to close the needle earlier to get more pressure on the needle to make sure it was closing and sealing properly. It seemed to stall a lot less today BUT as above the idle was just all over the place all day.
Silicone Around Brake Disc Spacers? And General Brake Issues?
in Gas Gas
Posted
Awesome thanks.