@leembarnes: Did you change out the CDI(s) yourself & if so, how difficult was it?
It's easy enough to do just a little fiddly. Cdi sits under the frame behind the headstock, remove tank and you can see and feel it. It's held onto a bracket with a Velcro elasticated strap. I remove that first and gently pull cdi backwards, remove from plug and replace. Note any moisture or rust on the pins in the cdi. Mine has been clean and dry both times to be fair but still I don't take the jet wash any where near it.
I use full length carbon. Cost about £80 but once you've had to pay out for a tech stanchion well worth the investment. Obvs very light and don't effect front end in any way.
In the spirit of fair play if he knowingly had a dab, or even the five, should he not have corrected the observer?? Regardless of whether he wins by 15, 19 or 20 marks.
Fitted a new Cdi today this appears to have fixed the problem. Had it running for thirty minutes nice and hot and no issues so far. Many thanks to Mr Saunders from SXS excellent customer service and after sales.
Thanks for all the advice will post a result in case someone experiences a similar problem in future. All connections earth's and cables checked and eliminated problem remains. Cdi unit is next up!
It could not hurt to unplug all connections and double check all grounds.
Will test this eve cleaned all the earth connections. There was a touch of moisture in the connector from the stator to the cdi cleaned that off and will see what happens!
Defo not the vent cap...just ran it again for ten mins with cap off and same result...perfect for a ten or twelve mins then bogs down won't rev and a few backfires this time too
Careful, because that can be the same thing as fuel or electronic. Had the same issue with a guy with a 2018 Beta. He swore he had no spark issue. Turned out it was the replacement fuel cap not venting.
It's got an aftermarket csp cap and the ball is moving fine doesn't appear blocked...
Water in gas can cause weird intermittent lean issues and be difficult to get out of system. I once pulled a carb and found a drop of water stuck in the main jet. Still, I can't see how that would cause a backfire.
Thanks I will drain everything off once more and get some new fuel to try. Intesting that when the bike is allowed to cool it runs fine for a while and then the issue returns
Brought it home and washed it and again it's run perfect for ten mins on stand. I did have a thought....just because the fan is working doesn't mean it's not overheating....could it be an impeller problem? I've heard of the Trs melting impeller blades and had been planning to do the upgrade on it. If there is no circulation could that give same symptoms....
Went out today and after ten minutes of 1st gear pottering around to warm up I got a big backfire. Started ok but wouldn't rev properly had loss of power and was knocking. Limped it back to the van and left it ten minutes whilst getting local opinion.
Ten minutes later it started perfect and ran spot on for about 3 or 4 minutes including at half and three quarter throttle whilst static. Then it started to bog down again and lose power. Back to the van quick strip down...carb clean all ok put a new plug in which took 15 minutes.
It then ran great for 15 minutes and same again started to bog down lose power and pop a bit so called it a day. 2nd and 3rd try there was no audible knocking.
Only work done prior to riding was fresh oil. Also new tank of fuel but same stuff I always use.
Any ideas welcome? Never done this before! Seems to be an issue as the bike gets hotter?? Fan working fine so overheating shouldn't be the issue.
Bad batch of fuel? Or has the big backfire damaged something.....
Been through a couple.of lanyards recently when it's been pulled.from the handlebars and the magnet his pinged out of the plastic casing and into the undergrowth never to be seem again!
Worth always having a spare of course but also worth buying some 10mm x 2mm neodymium magnets off the Internet. £4.50 for twenty and an easy fix with some loctite : )
Agree with hgas Hawkstone Park was an awesome venue...believe their monetary demands are the reason we haven't been there for some time.
Addingham was head and shoulders above Tong. Great sections easily accessible If perhaps a touch on the easy side, that being said one rain shower would have doubled the numbers no doubt.
Food prices ridiculous but what we're they charged to be there.....
Would have been great to see all the importers present lots of stands and gear for sale etc.....I heard a rumour of £700 per day for a stand to be present...completely third hand and could be total rubbish.
Would love to see it back there next year with a few tweaks in place
Perhaps a little low on confidence due to the injury....made a mistake in quali in Spain that ultimately didn't affect him but then the same again in Japan that did albeit not due to the early start number as Fajardo proved on Sat. Bit of extra pressure in front of the Honda bosses too!
Thanks for the further suggestions! Standard adjusters on at present with locking nuts tightened...and then really tightened when I thought they may be working loose! Sounds like hydraulic is the probable cause. I've had the reservoir elevated for a day to encourage any air to rise. Will try it at the wknd and proceed to bleeding if no joy. Thanks again for all the help.
Thanks for the further suggestions fluid level is good will start with bleeding it then it was better today but same result after a couple of hours riding.
Thanks JM for those suggestions will try the lever in the vertical this evening. It's a 2017 model. It tends to move either way at present sometimes out on occasion but mostly in towards the bars so it's creeping forwards when it's previously been disengaged. Never experienced this on any other bike so is a bit baffling hope what you suggest will do the trick. Cheers
Got a Trs recently was pretty much brand new only had about 6 hrs use. I've done another 15hrs on it in the last month. The biting point of the clutch keeps moving...I'll ride for an hour or two with it set for me and it's perfect and then almost inexplicably the bite point moves. I re adjust it and it's fine again.
Everything is tight as it should be etc adjusters, fluid levels all ok.
Finished riding last Sunday and it was set correct, started it today and the bite point has moved at least 5mm closer to the bars! Re adjust again.
Any thoughts?? I thought it may settle down with a few hours use on the bike but it doesn't appear to be doing so.
TRS one 300 rear suspension wishbone arm
in TRS
Posted
Never had an issue, my bike is nearly 3yrs old and has been up and down some fairly big stuff