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dabbist

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About dabbist

  • Rank
    New Member

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  • Bike
    Beta Rev3 200, Cub 2

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  • Location
    Peterborough
  • Gender
    Male

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  1. Thanks chaps. To my mind TTSpud is spot on, and I'm halfway in between. I've ridden old British bikes, since they were just old bikes, so I'm comfortable with manual advance and decompressers etc. I actually have a Cub (so not a proper heavyweight) which does have electronic ignition, but is otherwise very much a cub i.e. unmolested forks and frame and stock engine except for the oil pump. I also have a Beta Rev3 200 and can certainly vouch that they're totally different animals. I've done a couple of sessions of modern training (on the beta) which has helped, but from the small amount of time I've spent on pre65, certainly doesn't read across in all cases. Weight and the performance of the forks seem to be the biggest difference to me. Taking the Cub on a modern training course I would expect to be quite disruptive, as we'd rapidly hit the point where I'd be struggling to do stuff that everybody else was mastering. I tested that point by putting a very experienced modern and twinshock rider on the Cub, and he was extremely shocked at the difference. I have joined a "classic" club and now have some contact details for Mick Andrews, so hopefully can start making some noticeable progress. Thanks again for the replies.
  2. Hi all, does anybody know of someone running specifically pre 65 or classic trials courses? I've heard lots of good reports of Mick Andrews training, but having searched the web I can't find anywhere to book.
  3. Sorry chaps, I hadn't got around to concluding this. A day spent fiddling with needle and air screw settings finally got it running well. Tickover is still a tiny bit fast, but there's no hesitation, even if I really snap the throttle open and it definitely seems to produce more grunt than it did on the Amal. It's strange to set up, it seems to be either right or doesn't go, with very few options in between. Thanks for the help all.
  4. Well It's not quite Rolex yet, but I now have a half reasonable idle and it picks up without hesitation. So it looks like we're down to fine tuning (ish)
  5. Thanks Samwise, I've got the thing on and running. It starts well but no tickover yet. Haven't tried it under load yet either.
  6. Hi chaps, when I bought the Cub (200cc, R cam, largely standard) I was advised that the Cotton PW22 carb went straight on and was positively the bees knees. So I bought one. It doesn't go straight on, I can find nothing on the internet about it and have had no response from the seller. Does anybody know anything about it? Does anybody know where to get a manifold to fit? Thanks chaps.
  7. Thanks Tony, that sounds logical. I'll start figuring out a jig for the lathe.
  8. Hi all. I have a very non-trick Cub and no immediate desire to make it super competitive, because my riding isn't anyway. It would be fun, however, for the brakes to make a noticeable difference to the speed of the bike. What can be done, retaining the standard hubs, to improve matters. I'm really not planning to replace or rebuild the wheels in the near future. Cheers
  9. Thanks for the replies everyone. It's running just fine with the new plug, but the carb set up is next on my list. I've been working my way around since buying it. Fixed the water in the oil (water pump seal in backwards!) Done the clutch mod, stripped, cleaned and repacked the exhaust and new air filter. Does anybody know of a thread on removing and fitting the carb? I'm sure I'll figure it, but there's bound to be an easier way than I find. Thanks again all.
  10. Thanks Lineaway. I forgot to mention that I'd already done the flywheel-wd40 bit after I washed it, but she started second kick with a new plug. I'm still not sure how I could wash a spark plug to death, though. Still, the last two stroke I had was a Bantam... before they were classics. Thanks again.
  11. Hi all, Probably another idiot newby question. After a jolly day at Earl Shilton I jet washed my 2006 rev3 200. It started first kick as normal but wouldn't rev. It let out a couple of sharp "cracks" from the exhaust (backfires? ) then slowly wound it's way down to a stop (slight response to throttle but not enough to pick it up) then wouldn't start at all. I left it for an hour to dry out and it did the same again, but without the "backfires". Since it felt a bit like it was choked and the plug was wet and black I assumed I'd soaked the air filter. I was planning to replace it this weekend anyway and to clean out the exhaust, so I left it at that. I've now stripped and cleaned the exhaust and replaced the air filter and it shows no signs of life at all. I get a spark (though it looks a tad weak) and the plug gets wet, so there must be fuel getting in. All suggestion gratefully accepted. Cheers
  12. Hi All, Thanks for the help and advice. I replaced the water pump seal (the shaft was fine) and then flushed the gearbox first with a mixture of cheap engine oil and paraffin then with gearbox oil and it came out absolutely "dry" both times. I did the clutch mods while I was at it and I have to say that I'm hugely impressed with the difference. The only bad news is that I discovered in the process that the bash plate was cracked through on one corner, so that's gone off to be welded and hopefully, once I persuade it back on, I'll be done with fettling for a while.
  13. Thanks Chaps, That's great news. I've got the clutch out at the moment anyway (doing the mods) so I'll dig a bit deeper and sort that out as well. Thanks hugely for the fast response too. I wonder if I got a better price because the seller thought there was something drastic wrong with it. Cheers
  14. Hi All, Sorry if this has all been said before, but I couldn't find quite what's happening to me in any searches. I've just bought a 2006 Rev 3 200cc. It starts and runs delightfully, but going through the usual fluid changes before taking it out the gearbox oil clearly had a lot of water in it. I took off the water pump housing and impeller and it all looks stunningly nice and new. Having looked at a few more posts on similar topics the consensus seemed to be to change the oil, run it for a bit and then see what happens. So I changed the oil and had a play about for about two hours yesterday. I was a bit hamfisted filling it, so actually put in 700ccs of Putoline light gearbox oil, but when I dropped it out today I got 800ccs of nasty wet stuff. See pictures, The oil bottle's just there for comparison. To add to the confusion I went to top up the coolant and see how much was missing and couldn't get more than a drop into it. My reflex thought would be the water pump seal, but then I should be loosing water from the cooling circuit. Could that much have remained in the gearbox? It was warm when I drained it. I'd be most grateful for any bright ideas. Many thanks
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