I hate to revive such an old thread, but figured the contributors would be the ideal people to help. I have the same issue as above - my airbox sleeve simply isn't long enough (and is at a bit of a strange angle) to connect over the inlet on the carb. Mines a 2008 TXT Pro, does anyone know where I can purchase the adapter please? I have tried eBay but haven't seen one yet.
Thank you!
Another trick that usually works is to install the carb bell into the boot and then push the carb back into the manifold.
8 thou is very tight, I'd suggest this will cause excessive combustion turbulence leading to detonation....
If you look at what modern race engines eg rs 125, and engines making more power from that period eg tz 350 they're running bigger squish gaps than that (at least the guys who are winning).
Good luck with the racing, great fun bike to ride.
I totally agree. .008" is too tight, especially in an air-cooled engine. In TYs I usually set the squish at a little over 1mm, or .039".
so there i was this afternoon with an hour to spare so decided to change fork seal (long overdue) 40mm Marzocchi alloy stanchion (JTG 2013) ..simple job then realised only had 10weight fork oil or ATF...went with 10 weight but way too thick...has anybody tried ATF?
ATF is approximately 7.5 weight and has good lubricity and an anti-foaming agent so you could try it as an experiment.
Hi there been out on my trials bike today and half way through the ride went to kickstart the bike and there is no spring back or any life in the kickstart. You can push it down with your hand and will stay by the peg and not come back up. Any help would be great.
Thanks
Possibly a broken k/s return spring. Did you recently have the sidecover off?
When the pro first came out we left that bolt out for more flow. Plus we were always fixing the clutch, so it just made it easier.
Just as an addition as jadieki may not be aware: if the bolt is left out be sure to also take out the stepped washer underneath it. The bolt is drilled just to normalize the internal expansion/contraction volume changes and "flow" increase is not really an issue. I keep the washer/drilled bolt in my 02' Pro clutch hub just to stabilize the hub assembly but I see no problem leaving them out.
The person who previously owned the bike has played around with the inner rebound fork and on return there is a horrible clunking noise and heavy feel as this happens, thats why im looking to get an older set of forks as it may be cheaper than buying the inner fork
It would probably be a LOT cheaper to have someone who knows these forks look at them. A misplaced top-out spring would be my first guess.
There was no manual, but everything is on this site. Oil, forks, complete video of bike overhaul. More than a manual.
There are no "service" manuals available for the GasGas that I am aware of (only parts and basic owner's manuals) but Jim's site will cover most questions you will have.
Older gasgas require a specific ordering to the pressure plates in the cage. I would post in the gasgas forum and provide the model and year. Meanwhile remove the clutch case cover. (probably don't need a gasket or oring if its newer) and look closely at the pressure plates.
--Biff
Biff, as I remember, there is a "cross" on one of the spring towers and a cross embossed next to one of the pressure plate spring holes and they need to be matched up together. This may be part of the problem.
I understand you just rebuilt the motor. I would start with what jets you have in it for your elevation. The `02 also had mag cases, so the idea of a leak test is in order. Did you do the rebuild or someone real familiar with the pro. The cases were different on the `02 so the center gasket could be suspect, so was the clutch cover gasket. The `02 had a crazy amount of problems, which can be worked out with patience and lots of investment. That is why they never made a parts list.
There was an engine parts manual published for the 2002 Pro engine (I have a copy) but not a chassis manual that I'm aware of, much of the engine manuals you see after that were a modification of that original manual.
Burnleytazz has a optional wedge-type carb spacer installed on his engine. You could obtain one from your dealer and it was used to tilt the carb up a little to gain clearance between the carb float bowl and the top of the engine cases. I made one for my JTR370 when installing a 28PWK and it was a common mod for the Keihin on the early Pro 250/280's.
While replacing the shift centering spring in my 2002 Pro, I wanted to take off the center hub/basket assembly, which in this engine is a very tight fit, so I made a tool to do so. I remember someone posting that question lately but could not find the topic in a search so I thought I'd post the solution.
If you've looked down inside the center hub, you would have noticed that it is threaded for a short distance at the very bottom (the center stepped washer bottoms against those threads and it has that short-headed 4mm capscrew that strips easily). Those threads in the hub are exactly the same size and pitch as an 18mm sparkplug (18X1.5 I think). I made a slide hammer out of stuff in the scrap bin but you can also go to a machine shop and have them made you a 6" length of 18X1.5mm threaded rod with a little T handle welded on it. Screwing the rod into the hub center will pull the hub up and out very easily.
Hi all - apologise if this is in the wrong thread. I've got a 2004 GG 250 TXT Pro. I don't get out on it as much as I would like but the other day when I did I had an issue with selecting gears; it wouldn't go past second. Within an hour I ended up with only first and an inability to find neutral - day over. I got it home put it on the stand and it's as though it's jammed; there's no 'click' but the gear selector does move and returns so the spring is still functioning. A guy who I chatted to said it was the 'gear shaft selector' which are known to be an issue(?) and the only way to replace is by engine strip!!! In a weird way I'm happy to undertake the job (have an enduro rider / super mechanic for a good mate!) as I like to restore stuff but wanted to check if anyone else has had this type of issue and ask what they did to resolve it. If I need the shaft does anyone have a clue as to costs!? Any help greatly appreciated.
Just to eliminate the possibility of a shift centering spring out of adjustment, you might want to check that first. The shift centering spring is under the clutch assembly.
"Lay the bike on it's side to take the sidecover off and you won't have to change the oil and the rear wheel will be free. Loosen the 4mm capscrew up a little but not loose. Put the shift lever down into first but do not release it (you may have to rotate the rear wheel a little to get it to go into gear). SLOWLY allow the shift lever to come back to center and just before it hits center you should hear a light "click". If you don't, adjust the eccentric bushing (10mm open-end wrench) a very small amount either way and try it again (it only takes a very small amount of turning). Repeat this if necessary till you get the click. Then try the same process with shifting up into second gear, slowly allowing the lever to return to center to make sure you get the click. If you hear the click in first (downshift) and second (upshift) the shift shaft mechanism is centered, tighten the capscrew down (7-8 ft lbs, 10-12 Nm). It will usually take a few attempts to get it right, like adjusting four-stroke valves, but once you get the hang of it, it should be a lot easier. Usually I find that once I get it centered (hear click) on the downshift, it usually is centered on the upshift, but not always."
I have VForce on my Beta with the Keihin. Love 'em. The bike can pull a gear higher without stalling. It literally is the first mod I do to a new bike. The second being the clutch fix but that's a Beta thang.
I'm with Dan on this too. When I was building engines for Pros, Moto Tassinari send us two prototype reed assemblies for testing. They worked very well and I found them a good addition to the ultra-high performance engines needed at the Pro level. Essentially, the V-Force block doubles the reed petal sealing surface area so the reeds do not need to open as far for necessary flow. They are less restrictive and more responsive so they work well at all RPM ranges. A good product.
Thanks for the help, the bike has been sprayed a different colour and has 05 decals on it. I think the only way to go from here is take the head gasket off and measure it to find out the size of the engine.
Sometimes on the side of the cylinder there will be a casting mark like "GG28", which would indicate a 280 size cylinder.
There must be a technical term for the rubber thingy?
Often called a "bladder", it's designed to allow air in to the top half (to compensate for fluid drop in the reservoir) but not allow the fluid to escape.
Fitted a talon disc brake conversion to my 84 ty mono yesterday and all is well but it dawned on me later that the caliper/pads differ from the later standard disc braked mono.The parts although dusty from 10 + years in the shed went straight on and bled up fine but pads are half worn and wondered if still available.Can not see any on the bay,anyone know if talon still make/supply them,many thanks in advance,Steve.
I have a Talon conversion on my 85' TY and found that the front pads for the mid-90's, like a 96' GasGas, work fine.
2014 250 Racing Front Wheel Removal
in Gas Gas
Posted
Find a large nut that fits into the axle and use a pair of Vice Grips to hold and you can twist it slightly to help it slide out.
Jon