jse

Find a large nut that fits into the axle and use a pair of Vice Grips to hold and you can twist it slightly to help it slide out. Jon

Another trick that usually works is to install the carb bell into the boot and then push the carb back into the manifold. Jon

I totally agree. .008" is too tight, especially in an air-cooled engine. In TYs I usually set the squish at a little over 1mm, or .039". Jon

ATF is approximately 7.5 weight and has good lubricity and an anti-foaming agent so you could try it as an experiment. Jon

Possibly a broken k/s return spring. Did you recently have the sidecover off? Jon

Just as an addition as jadieki may not be aware: if the bolt is left out be sure to also take out the stepped washer underneath it. The bolt is drilled just to normalize the internal expansion/contraction volume changes and "flow" increase is not really an issue. I keep the washer/drilled bolt in my 02' Pro clutch hub just to stabilize the hub assembly but I see no problem leaving them out. Jon

yes.

It would probably be a LOT cheaper to have someone who knows these forks look at them. A misplaced top-out spring would be my first guess. Jon

There are no "service" manuals available for the GasGas that I am aware of (only parts and basic owner's manuals) but Jim's site will cover most questions you will have.

http://www.trialspartsusa.com/manuals/2000TXTPartsBook.pdf

Biff, as I remember, there is a "cross" on one of the spring towers and a cross embossed next to one of the pressure plate spring holes and they need to be matched up together. This may be part of the problem. Jon

There was an engine parts manual published for the 2002 Pro engine (I have a copy) but not a chassis manual that I'm aware of, much of the engine manuals you see after that were a modification of that original manual. Burnleytazz has a optional wedge-type carb spacer installed on his engine. You could obtain one from your dealer and it was used to tilt the carb up a little to gain clearance between the carb float bowl and the top of the engine cases. I made one for my JTR370 when installing a 28PWK and it was a common mod for the Keihin on the early Pro 250/280's. Jon

Some slide off easily and others are a bear to remove, even the same year and model. Jon

While replacing the shift centering spring in my 2002 Pro, I wanted to take off the center hub/basket assembly, which in this engine is a very tight fit, so I made a tool to do so. I remember someone posting that question lately but could not find the topic in a search so I thought I'd post the solution. If you've looked down inside the center hub, you would have noticed that it is threaded for a short distance at the very bottom (the center stepped washer bottoms against those threads and it has that short-headed 4mm capscrew that strips easily). Those threads in the hub are exactly the same size and pitch as an 18mm sparkplug (18X1.5 I think). I made a slide hammer out of stuff in the scrap bin but you can also go to a machine shop and have them made you a 6" length of 18X1.5mm threaded rod with a little T handle welded on it. Screwing the rod into the hub center will pull the hub up and out very easily. Jon

425 or 450 seems to work in most cases. You'll want it to be about 3/4ths the way up the sight glass window with the bike upright. Jon

I live in the North Eastern part, much better for Trials here... Jon

Just to eliminate the possibility of a shift centering spring out of adjustment, you might want to check that first. The shift centering spring is under the clutch assembly. "Lay the bike on it's side to take the sidecover off and you won't have to change the oil and the rear wheel will be free. Loosen the 4mm capscrew up a little but not loose. Put the shift lever down into first but do not release it (you may have to rotate the rear wheel a little to get it to go into gear). SLOWLY allow the shift lever to come back to center and just before it hits center you should hear a light "click". If you don't, adjust the eccentric bushing (10mm open-end wrench) a very small amount either way and try it again (it only takes a very small amount of turning). Repeat this if necessary till you get the click. Then try the same process with shifting up into second gear, slowly allowing the lever to return to center to make sure you get the click. If you hear the click in first (downshift) and second (upshift) the shift shaft mechanism is centered, tighten the capscrew down (7-8 ft lbs, 10-12 Nm). It will usually take a few attempts to get it right, like adjusting four-stroke valves, but once you get the hang of it, it should be a lot easier. Usually I find that once I get it centered (hear click) on the downshift, it usually is centered on the upshift, but not always." Jon

I'm with Dan on this too. When I was building engines for Pros, Moto Tassinari send us two prototype reed assemblies for testing. They worked very well and I found them a good addition to the ultra-high performance engines needed at the Pro level. Essentially, the V-Force block doubles the reed petal sealing surface area so the reeds do not need to open as far for necessary flow. They are less restrictive and more responsive so they work well at all RPM ranges. A good product. Jon

Jim is over in Gerona, Spain right now. I'll send him a message so he knows.

Sometimes on the side of the cylinder there will be a casting mark like "GG28", which would indicate a 280 size cylinder. Jon

Some 96's (most) came with the Ducati analog system, like the 96 JTR370 I had: http://www.trialspartsusa.com/diagrams/Duc94to96.jpg . Jon

Here's what they mean by adding the strip. These have over 20 years of hard use with no problems. Jon

Often called a "bladder", it's designed to allow air in to the top half (to compensate for fluid drop in the reservoir) but not allow the fluid to escape.

I have a Talon conversion on my 85' TY and found that the front pads for the mid-90's, like a 96' GasGas, work fine.

I've made braces for all my bikes since the 70's. Here's the one I use for my TY 350s.