LaVern

Thanks for the reply. I too will have to wait on it. I have another project, a 1977 Yamaha TY250 I am restoring for my son, so I want to get a little further along on that, before I open another project. Mine has never been opened up so I am thinking I may need more than just a top end and new crank seals. That's what has me concerned. The closest I've come to splitting cases was back in 1970 when a '66 Husqvarna 360 I owned needed split and the guy I bought it from did it while I watched. My 72 year old memory recalls a bunch of spacers and bearings and gears. Whew, kind of scary at this point in my life. I gotta do a bit of research first. I will post on here anything regarding this when I get going on it. Take care. LaVern

djr, That does make sense. I too remember hearing the RL250 was based on the TS250, and when I looked up the parts diagram I believe there is one seal inside and the other on the outside. So it looks like there is a good chance that a case splitting is in order. Thanks for the input. Lavern

Diagnosis, I guess I won't know until I take the side cover off. I won't be doing that for a few weeks at the soonest. I tried to convert the parts list but apparently I was allowed only one conversion frompdf to jpg. Anyway, the parts list says pts 17 and 28 are crankshaft seals and it shows them on the outside. I did not have this information when I first posted the question. I do see that the picture you posted seems to show at least one of them on the inside and one on the outside. Is that what you see? LaVern

I don't know if they changed the RL250 engine that much when Beamish built them. LaVern

Let's try it again. I think the whole thing is there but it too is pretty small. LaVern

I just found a picture of the Beamish Suzuki crankcase, and it seems to show the seals on the outside. I will try to post it, and see what you think, if I am able to post it. It's a PDF. Must be too large a file. I'll see if Ican work around that. Thanks for the response. Looks like I'll need to convert it to another file type. LaVern

djr, Thanks for the reply. I am hoping you're wrong, but if you are correct, I will have to decide whether I want to tackle that or take it somewhere else. I guess I'lljust have to pull the side cover and take a peek. LaVern

Their website was last updated in 2015. Good chance they are no longer active. Goodluck. You might try this site. https://www.inmotiontrials.com/product-category/parts/twinshock/armstrong/ LaVern

Hi All, I several years ago I recondition my 1975 RL250 Exacta. I didn't get into the engine as it had always started 1st or 2nd kick and seemed to run just fine. Well it is getting noticeably tired and I believe my next project after I get my son's 1977 Yamaha TY250 done will be taking a closer look at the engine. Right now it still starts fine until it gets warmed up and then it not only starts hard but there is no low end whatso ever. I am thinking I definitely need at least to do a top end, bore, new piston and rings and crank seals. That's what I did on the TY without any problems, I figure that will be the least I have to do. I am the original and sole owner, and the engine has never been opened up. My question is, can the crank shaft seals be replaced without splitting the cases like the Yamaha or do I need to split the cases? Never split cases before. I don't know if I would be getting in over my head if I had to. I do have a copy of the Suzuki Service Manual and a bunch of factory service bulletins. Thanks LaVern

Several years back, 3 or 4, I reconditioned my 1975 RL250, and I used the center out of an old RL250 sprocket I had for a rear sprocket spacer and it worked just fine I thought. Where were you getting the rubbing at? I may have to go back and check that out. Thanks. LaVern

Thank you for that information. I did not see any timing marks but that is just about where I marked the flywheel and case with a felt tipped marker. I picked that area because the nut on the flywheel case lined up very close to the edge of the case. I will have to take a closer look tomorrow and see if I can see the marks near there. What I did was exactly what I suggested in my previous post. I brought the piston to 3.1mm BTDC and made a mark on the case and flywheel. Thanks again. LaVern P.S. Is there a way to get emails informing me of replies to my postings? I just happened to come back to this forum and saw a reply was made 7 hours previously. LJS

Hi All, I know this is a old post, but this is exactly where I am at with my son's TY250 restoration. My question is about, (" you'll need to mark the cases & flywheel at the correct firing point before strobing it".) Sodo I bring the piston to 3.1mm (.122") BTDC and somewhere on the flywheel and case put a mark where when a strobe light is used the marks will line up when timing is correct? Seems that's what is being said. Thanks. LaVern

I know this is an old topic but I have the same problem on my 1975 TL250. It has cracked and been welded several times with no long lasting success. I do have a XL250 lever on it now but it does not have the length or bend to clear the foot peg. To use it I have a ty-wrap around the frame so when I need to start it I fold the peg up out of the way but then have to bend down to unhook it so the peg will flop down in the correct position. That gets me by but the added length on the lever also allows for a much easier kick. My 71 year old knee protests about that. 😁. It would be nice to know if there are any other levers, maybe even from newer bikes or other brands that would work. It's been a 4 year search and I haven't found anything other than the Honda XL250 that fits. Any ideas would be appreciated. I have up loaded a picture of the original vs. the XL250 one. LaVern

Hi All, I am back with another question regarding the 1977 TY250 493 I am working on. I am in the process of replacing the crank seals and, I got the left hand side out with no problems, but the right hand side, the clutch side, is giving me problems. I got the crankshaft gear removed with no problems. I have to remove the clutch basket to get to the seal retainer. And I got the clutch plates removed, but I am not sure which hand thread it is on the clutch basket nut. Looking at the few threads that are exposed it looks like a left hand thread, which makes sense since the crank shaft nut was a right hand thread and these turn in the opposite direction. I have an Dewalt 18V 1/2" impact and it will not budge it either way. I also have a pneumatic 1/2" impact but before I put that to it, I want to be sure of the thread direction, left or right hand. I have a tool to secure the inner basket, I just don't know for sure the proper direction to remove the nut. I have a Shop Service manual but I find no indication in there as to the direction. Thanks for any help and info you can give me. LaVern

FYI the SKU# for this petcock is SKU: KL18-4170. When I ordered mine it was the last one they had, and after just checking the SKU on their site it shows no results. I don't know if they'll be getting any more in stock. I see that Dark Horse Motorcycle parts has it listed as a FUEL PETCOCK - YAMAHA DT100 77–83 . Maybe Partzilla or other OEM suppliers may have this. LaVern

Finally I got it small enough

Well it has been a few days since my last post. I have found a petcock that works and it is exactly the setup I was looking for. After an extensive search I came upon the website Dime City Cycles. After a couple of emails, Sam at customer support said they had a petcock and it was the correct thread, 14mm x1.5. When it arrived I thought I hit another brick wall. The thread was not 1.5, but something finer, perhaps 1.25 or even 1.0. Fortunately I was able to remove the threaded collar from the new petcock and replace it with the original collar. The thread on the petcock body was the same as the original, and I was able to use the original Suzuki collar. I am having trouble resizing the second picture I have with gas line installed. I may try later, but here is the installed picture and we rode it yesterday without any leakage. I am satisfied with the results. Lavern

That another good thing to look at. Thanks. LaVern

That sounds like a real good idea. Thanks for that. I take it the metric 14mm or 16mm are the standard pipe tread sizes ? I have checked metric bolt sizes and found nothing to fit. I'll do what you suggest and post back on here my results. Thanks. LaVern

That looks like what I am looking for. Do you know specific model and year? LaVern

I'm going to try to download the pictures comparing the new vs. the OEM. The new is on the left and the OEM is on the right. This is looking at them from the backside. As you can hopefully see the outlet on the new one is lower than the OEM, and this is just enough to hit on the cable coming out of the carb top. That's why if a petcock had the exit to the right or the rear towards the rear wheel it would clear everything. I may have to further research metric threads. LaVern

b40rt, The leakage from the original petcock was out from the face of the petcock plus it is unable to shut off fuel to carb completely. No problem with fitting up to the tank itself. This has to do with the rubber disc that controls the off/on/ reserve positions of the petcock. The rubber washers on the new petcocks are not interchangeable. I may end up just using the new petcocks but I am hoping to get a petcock that allows the lever to face outward. Thus thread size needed. Thanks for your response. LaVern

I have a1975 RL250 I reconditioned several years ago. In the process I needed a new petcock due to leaking past the on/off position, plus leaking around the petcock on/off lever. I originally found a supposed OEM petcock from Partzilla I believe it was, and it worked but the location where the gas line connected sat lower than the original and since it exited out the back the line hits the throttle cable on the carb so a pretty extreme angle on the gas line is needed, so much so that it partially kinks the gas line. Since it is threaded, and the body of the petcock can be rotated, I had just turned it to miss the throttle cable. The trouble with that is it puts the lever facing forward making access somewhat difficult. So last year I got another petcock from Steven Pitt at Suzuki/Beamish Owners Club who I think has sold it to someone else now but that really doesn't matter. He said many people had used that petcock very successfully so I bought that. Well it is Identical to the OEM one I got previously. As I said, it will work but not as nice as I would like, and it is definitely different than the original that came on the bike. I am the original and only owner and have never had it replaced until several years ago. Any way that was along way to get to this point. Does anybody know the thread size on a 1975 RL250? A petcock that would have the line exiting to the rear, towards the rear tire, instead of towards the carb would be perfect. I see quite a few on line that look to have the same method of threading on the tank. I just need to know the thread size to be sure they are the same. I am unfamiliar with metric pipe threads, and I have tried to match up a metric bolt thread with no luck. Thanks for reading and any information is greatly appreciated. I probably should have taken a picture of the original vs. the newly purchased one for comparison. I will try to get to it tomorrow. LaVern

Feetupfun, Thanks for that information. I have posted this same questions on the TY Yamaha forum, which I believe is out of France, and I have been corrected as to my thoughts about what coil was the source (ignition) and what is the lighting. It seems from all the info I got from them that the damaged coil is actually one of two lighting coils, and what is confusing to me is the left side stacked coils has the ignition on the bottom ant the top is the second lighting coil. If that is the case, I don't need to do anything with the damaged coils because the bike has no lighting circuit on it. I know that when my son bought it there were no lights, and no sign of ever having any lights or brake switches etc. When talking with the folks on the other forum I got the impression that perhaps Yamaha had lights on all of the TY250s. I'll have to talk to my son about what he wants me to do. I've already bought new points and a condenser so getting the original magneto vs. a CDI unit would be less cost. I still have a while before I get to that part of the restore. Thanks again. LaVern

Actually more accurately, a small town in northwestern Pennsylvania, called North East. LaVern