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Hi All,
I know this is a old post, but this is exactly where I am at with my son's TY250 restoration. My question is about, (" you'll need to mark the cases & flywheel at the correct firing point before strobing it".) Sodo I bring the piston to 3.1mm (.122") BTDC and somewhere on the flywheel and case put a mark where when a strobe light is used the marks will line up when timing is correct? Seems that's what is being said. Thanks.
LaVern
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I know this is an old topic but I have the same problem on my 1975 TL250. It has cracked and been welded several times with no long lasting success. I do have a XL250 lever on it now but it does not have the length or bend to clear the foot peg. To use it I have a ty-wrap around the frame so when I need to start it I fold the peg up out of the way but then have to bend down to unhook it so the peg will flop down in the correct position. That gets me by but the added length on the lever also allows for a much easier kick. My 71 year old knee protests about that. 😁. It would be nice to know if there are any other levers, maybe even from newer bikes or other brands that would work. It's been a 4 year search and I haven't found anything other than the Honda XL250 that fits. Any ideas would be appreciated. I have up loaded a picture of the original vs. the XL250 one.
LaVern
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Hi All,
I am back with another question regarding the 1977 TY250 493 I am working on. I am in the process of replacing the crank seals and, I got the left hand side out with no problems, but the right hand side, the clutch side, is giving me problems. I got the crankshaft gear removed with no problems. I have to remove the clutch basket to get to the seal retainer. And I got the clutch plates removed, but I am not sure which hand thread it is on the clutch basket nut. Looking at the few threads that are exposed it looks like a left hand thread, which makes sense since the crank shaft nut was a right hand thread and these turn in the opposite direction. I have an Dewalt 18V 1/2" impact and it will not budge it either way. I also have a pneumatic 1/2" impact but before I put that to it, I want to be sure of the thread direction, left or right hand. I have a tool to secure the inner basket, I just don't know for sure the proper direction to remove the nut. I have a Shop Service manual but I find no indication in there as to the direction. Thanks for any help and info you can give me.
LaVern
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FYI the SKU# for this petcock is SKU: KL18-4170. When I ordered mine it was the last one they had, and after just checking the SKU on their site it shows no results. I don't know if they'll be getting any more in stock. I see that Dark Horse Motorcycle parts has it listed as a FUEL PETCOCK - YAMAHA DT100 77–83 . Maybe Partzilla or other OEM suppliers may have this.
LaVern
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Finally I got it small enough
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Well it has been a few days since my last post. I have found a petcock that works and it is exactly the setup I was looking for. After an extensive search I came upon the website Dime City Cycles. After a couple of emails, Sam at customer support said they had a petcock and it was the correct thread, 14mm x1.5. When it arrived I thought I hit another brick wall. The thread was not 1.5, but something finer, perhaps 1.25 or even 1.0. Fortunately I was able to remove the threaded collar from the new petcock and replace it with the original collar. The thread on the petcock body was the same as the original, and I was able to use the original Suzuki collar. I am having trouble resizing the second picture I have with gas line installed. I may try later, but here is the installed picture and we rode it yesterday without any leakage. I am satisfied with the results.
Lavern
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That another good thing to look at. Thanks.
LaVern
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That sounds like a real good idea. Thanks for that. I take it the metric 14mm or 16mm are the standard pipe tread sizes ? I have checked metric bolt sizes and found nothing to fit. I'll do what you suggest and post back on here my results. Thanks.
LaVern
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That looks like what I am looking for. Do you know specific model and year?
LaVern
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I'm going to try to download the pictures comparing the new vs. the OEM. The new is on the left and the OEM is on the right. This is looking at them from the backside. As you can hopefully see the outlet on the new one is lower than the OEM, and this is just enough to hit on the cable coming out of the carb top. That's why if a petcock had the exit to the right or the rear towards the rear wheel it would clear everything. I may have to further research metric threads.
LaVern
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b40rt,
The leakage from the original petcock was out from the face of the petcock plus it is unable to shut off fuel to carb completely. No problem with fitting up to the tank itself. This has to do with the rubber disc that controls the off/on/ reserve positions of the petcock. The rubber washers on the new petcocks are not interchangeable. I may end up just using the new petcocks but I am hoping to get a petcock that allows the lever to face outward. Thus thread size needed. Thanks for your response.
LaVern
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I have a1975 RL250 I reconditioned several years ago. In the process I needed a new petcock due to leaking past the on/off position, plus leaking around the petcock on/off lever. I originally found a supposed OEM petcock from Partzilla I believe it was, and it worked but the location where the gas line connected sat lower than the original and since it exited out the back the line hits the throttle cable on the carb so a pretty extreme angle on the gas line is needed, so much so that it partially kinks the gas line. Since it is threaded, and the body of the petcock can be rotated, I had just turned it to miss the throttle cable. The trouble with that is it puts the lever facing forward making access somewhat difficult. So last year I got another petcock from Steven Pitt at Suzuki/Beamish Owners Club who I think has sold it to someone else now but that really doesn't matter. He said many people had used that petcock very successfully so I bought that. Well it is Identical to the OEM one I got previously. As I said, it will work but not as nice as I would like, and it is definitely different than the original that came on the bike. I am the original and only owner and have never had it replaced until several years ago.
Any way that was along way to get to this point. Does anybody know the thread size on a 1975 RL250? A petcock that would have the line exiting to the rear, towards the rear tire, instead of towards the carb would be perfect. I see quite a few on line that look to have the same method of threading on the tank. I just need to know the thread size to be sure they are the same. I am unfamiliar with metric pipe threads, and I have tried to match up a metric bolt thread with no luck. Thanks for reading and any information is greatly appreciated. I probably should have taken a picture of the original vs. the newly purchased one for comparison. I will try to get to it tomorrow.
LaVern
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Feetupfun,
Thanks for that information. I have posted this same questions on the TY Yamaha forum, which I believe is out of France, and I have been corrected as to my thoughts about what coil was the source (ignition) and what is the lighting. It seems from all the info I got from them that the damaged coil is actually one of two lighting coils, and what is confusing to me is the left side stacked coils has the ignition on the bottom ant the top is the second lighting coil. If that is the case, I don't need to do anything with the damaged coils because the bike has no lighting circuit on it. I know that when my son bought it there were no lights, and no sign of ever having any lights or brake switches etc. When talking with the folks on the other forum I got the impression that perhaps Yamaha had lights on all of the TY250s. I'll have to talk to my son about what he wants me to do. I've already bought new points and a condenser so getting the original magneto vs. a CDI unit would be less cost. I still have a while before I get to that part of the restore. Thanks again.
LaVern
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Actually more accurately, a small town in northwestern Pennsylvania, called North East.
LaVern
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In the U.S. in the northwest corner of Pennsylvania.
LaVern
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Hello All,
Its been almost 2 months since I last posted about the 1977 TY250D 493 series that trying I am restoring for my son. Well in the process of replacing the points and condenser I managed to scrape the source coil pretty bad. Apparently the tool to keep the flywheel from turning stuck through too much at one point. I'll post some pictures. Looking at all options I think rewinding the coil would be the most cost effective. But to do that I need the resistance specs on the coil. I have a service manual but it is the European version and it doesn't have any info on an American version.
Anyway, the specs I have give 2 different required resistance, one for 9 European countries and that spec is 1.6 ohms. and the specs for the English model is 0.1 ohms. Can anybody give me the specs for a 493 series sold for America? I already have the points and condenser purchased so I should probably try to use the magneto ignition vs. a CDI though the CDI seems to be less maintenance and more reliable. Thanks. LaVern
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Feetupfun, Yes I do remember my SL125 and XL175 having tool sets. I guess the opening seems small. As I think of it, pretty interesting engineering, utilizing every cubic inch of space. Thanks for responding.
LaVern
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Okay. Did they come with a set of tools or was this just a "place" to put some? Thanks for your reply.
LaVern
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Hi All,
I'm getting going on the restoration of the TY250. I got the frame all stripped down except thw triple clamps and the foot pegs. During the process I came across a small area behind the headstock that has a hinged cover which opens from below. It is held closed by a knurled thumbscrew. A bunch of hazel nuts and looks like flower seeds fell out when I open it. What is it for? I'll tr to post some pictures.
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Thanks for your input. As you, I think if my son rides it after restoration, it too will not be in competition, but as a trail bike. So perhaps in reality, it isn't a big deal for what it would be used for. I guess I should pick his brain about the level of this "restoration" that he wants. I just go back to the conversation I had with him when he stated with no doubt what so ever that the original flywheel made the bike easier to ride. I now have two other vintage trialers, a 1975 Suzuki RL250, and a 1975 Honda TL250, neither gets ridden in any form of competition, just trail riding. I suspect that will be the role of this bike also.
LaVern
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That is a possibility. Next question, Why would somebody who competes in trials, want a lighter flywheel? I always thought that the heavier wheel allowed the engine to be run on lower RPMs, especially when coming out of a high RPM situation where increased RPMs would lose traction easier? Of course my understanding could be completely wrong and if so, I welcome a lesson on Vintage Trials practices. I am 71 years old and most of what I know, (and it isn't that much), was acquired in the mid '70s when I first learned about the sport. I never competed and I will admit that most of my understanding of this aspect was from the fact that some of the manufacturers were using standard engines with larger flywheels on their trials models. Also if I remember correctly, replacement with a larger flywheel was a common after market modification at the time. Thanks.
LaVern
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Well I definitely don't have the one that it came with. The one I have is 25.9mm wide and 4.4mm thick. Substantially smaller, thus lighter. Well thank you everyone who read and answered my post. Now I wonder if I might be able to find one of the original sies.
LaVern
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Thank you! This will help me figure out just what I have. FIrst thing tomorrow I will check it out, and for anyone interested I will post th dimensions. Thanks again.
LaVern
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Seems I overlooked this posting. If the dimensions are available they surely would be helpful. The pictures look good. Thanks.
LaVern
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Okay, I can clearly see the Flywheel on the right has a thicker ring on the outside and I can't say for sure but it looks like mine has a thinner outside ring. I guess without weight and O.D. dimensions I have to assume that the flywheel I have is from a TY250A. It'll still work, but my son says he remembers that the bike was easier to ride with the original fly wheel. Thanks for the pictures. Now I guess I'll go with it. Perhaps I should ask, does anyone know of a source for the heavier wheel?
LaVern
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