Undo the dust caps and security rings of the oil seals. Unscrew the piston at the bottom and get all lose parts out from the top. And them pull them **** them apart?! You'll need a few harder ones...
I have a Paoli in mine but the system should be the same?!
I'm curious how reducing the clearance, by putting thicker plates in, can help reduce drag ?
Well that's not really what i've said.
Quote
I see the potential replacing the plates with "these thicker ones" and eliminate the gained less drag via the dimpled plates by putting thicker plates in.
The drag would be reduced by swapping to dimpled ones. But these new dimpled ones are thicker than the original ones(at least this is what they say), which would increase the drag again...so I wouldn't gain anything. That's why I try to find out about the thickness of the original ones, before I am going to buy a set.
Sorry if I expressed myself not proper. English is not my first/second language....sometimes it is a but of a struggle.
thanks for your answer. I already switched to ATF and also removed two of the six springs from the clutch. Lastly mentioned made a much bigger difference. But I still have some drag left, too much in my opinion (which might be wrong). That's why I want to go ahead with the dimpled clutch plates. And I'd like to record it here for other people.....sooo many threads about this and none contain "the full story"
The reed valve can cause things like this, yes. I have had exactly this problem with my vespa. Kicked in, started and sounded like it is on full throttle but every few seconds someone is pushing and holding the engine off for a few seconds. Rev up and down. Reed valves
I am looking to swap the clutch plates with new and dimpled ones to further reduce the drag. Now I have seen that some offers are different thicknesses and now I am curious. For example, one offer says "1.5mm thick. 0.1mm thicker than original ones.". I see the potential replacing the plates with "these thicker ones" and eliminate the gained less drag via the dimpled plates by putting thicker plates in.
So if you have swapped the original to dimpled plates or have knowledge about the original ones, can you please confirm:
The thickness of the original plates (please also mention model year of your 315)
Which dimpled plates did you use (manufacturer, model-no, thickness) and do they reduce the drag or not
I think this could be very useful for future queries reg this matter
I am glad that the pad seasoning trick worked for you as well.
Use ATF rated to Dexron III. Don't bother to try to get the elf one. Too expensive and sometimes hard to source. If you are not sure what is in there now.....maybe flush it. Poor in 480ml...which i still fine to run on and let it run until warm......then poor out and put in the req amount of 520. No need to buy too much oil
In regards to the the drag:
There are several ways to reduce the drag. I did not come up with the stuff mentioned below. I did a bit of research and these are apparently they ways to go:
1. If not already done, replace the steel plates with the perforated ones. This allows more oil flow while the clutch is pulled and seems to reduce the drag quite a bit.
2. Take out two of the six screws of the clutch. Of course opposite ones. But yes, that's exactly what I did and it got 60-70% better and experienced no other impacts on the function of the clutch. I still want to replace the steel plates at some stage....but put so much money into the bike already....my bank account needs a break. The clutch cover has a rubber seal, so no problem to just try it. it took me literally 5minites to make this adjustment. Seal can be reused. Just take it off carefully to not rip it.
Don't overcomplicate it mate. Heat up the entire brake and put some water on it. Just drive and have a bit of pressure on the brake.....does the job very well.
I am not sure if it is the disc or the pads.....or both. It worked fine. I have read about this in the net a few times. Heard about it the first times in my life (owned over 20 bike so far) related to trial bikes. Was doubting but gave it a go....and it worked.
My case: I have been sold ****ty sinter pads and had almost no brake force. tried this and now it feels almost like throwing an anchor. Also on a 315.
Have a ride and get the front brake really hot. Then cool down with water. Maybe do this twice. made a huge difference to my rear brake. had to do this with even brand new pads (not galfer pads).
80/1 is what the manual is saying. I have been told that some people go for 100/1 which I wouldn't feel comfortable with. The prev owner of mine run on something around 50/1 or even more....and all it turned into a smoke machine, not very reactive engine and in detail it even affects your air/fuel mix. Personally I go for the 80/1 and a tiny extra blop of oil This turned down the ratio in my tank immediately(as mentioned, 50/1 was before) and the engine is sooo much better on the throttle.
AH. got ya. Please see the picture attached. Is this what you mean?
I took out the rear shock because it was "spring only" and send it off for revision. 530NZ$.😱 I need a new shaft.🥵 And then I thought.....while this is open....let's check the linkage kit and may give it some grease. Well....I am currently trying to source a linkage kit.
The swingarm itself has no play and everything is fine. But again hard to source a kit here in New Zealand. Overseas are plenty. So I guess I will leave it for now and open it another time. Actually scared to open it and then not be able to put it together again because it might fall apart as the linkage did. 😁
I will NOT look into the swing arm at this stage. I need a quick financial recover. But this is really the last bit on the bike to make it mechanically back sound again. It is on the list....just not there yet. haha.
just found out my linkage bearings and the other things supposed to be there are more or less non-existent. Does the 4rt one fit to all 315? Mine is a 1997? I am in NZ and have to order overseas. Just want to be sure ordering the right thing.
HRC build quality top drawer & the 315 is generally perceived as a desirable, emerging classic. Loads of folks spend their hard earned sprucing them up. Later models command higher prices, but even the old ones do well if in good order & have been updated. A good one will last forever.
As with most off roaders, there are hounds out there, largely due to owners lack of maintenance skills.
Many parts shared with the 4RT, & clutch plates same as CR 250. Plenty of fancy front pipes out there. Tailpipes too, but not middle box, which is no biggie.
Most bearings off the shelf of your local bearing shop. Clutch cover O ring seal is a PITA. Just use RTV instead
Early Dellorto's troublesome, but a nice PWK 28 sorts out that problem, Pistons used to be hard to find, but S3 now doing them.
Plastics, & all manner of "dee cal" kits out there. 4RT items can be made to fit. Side stands rubbish, same as 4RT. Air boxes not brilliant either.
Hey mate,
could you please provide a bit more detail reg the cluth chover o ring. I am in need of one
My two cents:
I bought a 1997 recently. Generally in a good shape, but did not get any maintenance. I had t do:
- few spokes&nipples rear and front
- chain and sprokets
- air flter
- rep kit both brake calipers incl pads
- rep kit master cylinder (front brake and clutch)
- reed valve and gasket
- rep kit PHB carb
- float valve PHB carb
- inlet elbow brass PHB carb
- rep kit fork (seals and bushings)
- bearing head steering
- Chain tensioner
- rear brake pedal
- wheel bearings
- bleed screw clutch
Could source all the parts. I am locate din New Zealand so I had to get most of it overseas. But it was possible....and she's is a beauty now
But yes, it would be good to work on a database showing what parts could be replaced with parts of other models...
270 is the right one. It sounds to me that you may have still some dirt in one of the jets.
What I would do in any case:
Check all the jets match stock sizes. How many turn is the air screw out? (Count from current position by turning in, and then bring it back into its original position. Compare to what it should be in the manual. I would have a 97/98 & 02 manual if needed.
Maybe worth getting a rep kit for the carb. This will replace all the o rings and what have you. If you already have some damaged ones.....and the kit isn't too expensive.
i am missing the top washer, shown as #7 on the picture below. Honda doesn't have it anymore. Could anybody met me know the dimensions so I could get one made up or try to get one with close dimensions? Mostly interested in thickness
i am currently looking for some spare rear spokes for my '97 315R.
The short ones are L/R the same. The longer ones different though.
Short ones: compatible with 4rt?
Long ones L: compatible with 4rt?
Long ones R: compatible with 4rt?
Tried the search but couldn't get a clear answer on that one. Part numbers are not matching. Maybe somebody knows it straight away.
i have ordered a rep kit and a float valve for the carb of my Cota 315 (1997). I have been given a 200er float valve. But once opened the carb I've found a 270er in it. The parts catalogue doesn't give an indication about the size.
Anybody some knowledge if it is a 200er or a 270er? Given the bikes age I wouldn't be surprised if this has been changed over time
Thanks in advance and regards from New Zeland,
Pascal
315r showa fork tool
in Montesa
Posted
What do you mean split upper and lower tubes?
Undo the dust caps and security rings of the oil seals. Unscrew the piston at the bottom and get all lose parts out from the top. And them pull them **** them apart?! You'll need a few harder ones...
I have a Paoli in mine but the system should be the same?!