96woody

I once had to bleed my rear brake too. I found the best way to do it is to fill the reservoir with brake oil and open up the valve on the calliper. Then continuously pump the brake until oil start to come out of the valve and if the oil level in the reservoir goes down then keep topping it up. Once oil has reached the valve, close it off. Then open the "bleed" valve, on the main valve you have just closed, but make sure you have a small piece of pipe of tube of some sort filled with brake oil on covering the valve so as not to accidentally get more air into the system. Then, like before, keep pumping the brake until it will not press all the way down (there is no air left and so the pistons are being stopped by the disc, as they should be). Once you have achieved this then close the valve, making surely it is adequately tight enough but not over tight. Then careful remove the tube filled with brake fluid and at all costs avoid getting any of your discs or pads as this will prevent them from working. You only need a small amount of brake fluid, just enough to form a small barrier to stop any air getting in whilst the bleed valve is open. This also is a good indicator as to you progress because as the air bubbles are pumped from the system you can see them rise up through the oil in the tube. Finally check the oil level in your reservoir and top it up if needs be. And there you have it a working rear brake with no air in the system. Hope this helps.

I have a 1996 Gas Gas 270cc and lately after evey ride the plug is fouling quite badly, a dry carbon sooty type of fouling and I dont know why. I am running a pre-mix of 80:1 and the fuel/air screw on the carb is 3 full turns out. Any one any ideas? I have attached a pic of what it looks like.