steve666

it sounds like the stator requires a rewind , i had this problem check out the other threads on bike not starting etc (the cost of a rewind is about

If you put your email address on i will email some of the scanned pages for you Steve

sounds like the stator needs a rewind , i had the same problem cost about

THE OWNERS MANUAL I HAVE IS FROM A 1993 BIKE (WATERCOOLED) Quote "fill the fuel tank with a blend of super gasoline ron min .98 and 3%synthetic oil(5L PETROL/150CCOIL) run for 20 hours or 500km during the running in period. afterwards use ablend of super gasoline ron min.98 and 2%synthetic oil (5L PETROL 100CC OIL)" Gear box and primary transmission 1400cc (engine gear oil mobilland universal/mobilube shc) if it is the same as my bike it is quicker to remove the petrol tank to get to the filler point and the level indicator is in the left hand side of the bike on the clutch housing ,remove alan bolt fill until oil is level with hole ,i could never fit in 1400 cc . the oil drain underneath is a alan bolt as well DO NOT REMOVE THE BOLT NEXT TO THIS, THE KICK START ASSEMBLY WILL FALL APART if your bike dose not have a drilled hole in the bash plate to remove the oil plug its worth doing this so next time you dont have to remove it . for the brake pads look on ebay, but try to use your local bike shop Steve

Hi all i have a apriila climber owners manual which i will try to scan into the PC and have available in some sort of emailable package i just have to be nice to the kids to show me how its done so bear with me i will try to help out where i can , fork oil is 20w and has 260 cc of oil in each leg and should be changed every 1500,2000 km i found the best way to remove the seal is to stand the fork leg once stripped (remove spring clip)upside down in hot boiled water from the kettle (make sure you made a cuppa first ) and use a spring puller or somthing with a hook it will just slide out .to replace the seal again place in hot water and just smear new oil around the seal ,i then used a short lenght of 1" 1/2 waste pipe just to tap it home then replace the spring clip. I only need to replace one seal but the other fork looked a little harder to replace due to it being a rebound type .(other a damper) hope this helps you out steve

Thanks problem sorted

I could use some help i have had my bike standing for a couple of months and the clutch has stopped working , i have stripped it down as far as i dare and all seems in order , put it all back and still no joy. the problem is i can pull the clutch lever in and it wont work( ie the engine is still driving the wheel ) ,the springs on the plate must be working because the lever springs right back . is it something simple i am missing ?

Hi this is my first post ,i have just had the same problem with the climber stalling and not starting halfway round a muddy section, I could get the bike going again with a new plug or 20 mins of kicking over ( nearly broke my leg doing this after missing the kick start in temper and pile driving my leg striaght down into tarmac! ) this happen a couple of times and i thought i had bought a dud bike ,until some bright spake told me to send the stator to be checked ,low and behold it needed a re wind , job sorted kicks over 2nd time all the time now.