the vid is where I got half my user name from (not motoGP or Moto anything else). Outstanding vid, that still holds up against todays offerings - no bull
interesting to still read more mixed opinions. On another forum www.visordown.com (if you need to know ) I had a couple of individuals say they had broken their wrists or arms because of bark busters. Could have been trail or mx riding though, as the trials scene's not so big as it a road bike forum for the most part.
Still undecided - I reckon it could save a few levers or bruised fingers, and I only ride the yellow routes anyway. May give them a shot. Dunno
I guess you could always shorten the bars by an inch (half inch from either end )
Heard lots of stories (mx / trail / etc) about broken wrists, but don't know of it ever happening. I guess if you know a few people who have used them with no problems the odds must be OK
In the end I just brushed the old mud off with a bit of water, then with a cloth and re-applied some waterproof leather treatment I go cheaply from Millets.
I did however do some dusting yesterday and what do ya know - it was the spray with beeswax. I didn't try it on my boots as I'd already done them with the 'propper stuff', but I did spray onto a table and left it a while and did notice quite an impressive residue. I think it probably does work, so when I get lazy or the tub of 'propper stuff' runs out I may switch to that. (I just didn't believe you t-shock 250. Sorry
hi, I just got a second hand pair of boot. They're in great condition and already appear to be 'nic-waxed' (?) quite heavily.
This is great, but I'm after some advice - should I just clean up the boot (get the mud off) and apply more waterproofing, or is there a way of getting the existing stuff off and starting from scratch?
Advice welcomed, and what is a good waterproofer available easily in the UK?
I agree with your point on scrutineering in a perfect world however; by carrying out scrutineering, the club then actually accepts responsibility for the condition of the bike.
If an un-scrutineered bike doesn't meet the standard laid down in the ACU hand book, then it is the riders responsibility. Carry out a check and it shifts to the club.
as mentioned it's a pretty similar engine in scorpas and I think there may be some sort of scorpa manual online somewhere. (sorry, don't know where - google may be your freind ). It won't be a pukka manual, but it may be of use?
I was verrrrry verrrry lucky and I received a manual from a poster on here who happens to really love TYZs and does the odd SSDT on them , who had a spare he didn't need.
I also got something from Sammy Miller (I think), but that was basically a parts stock list or similar.
If it's something specific I won't mind looking it up for you - BUT, I'm not on here regularly. If u want to email me I can give you an address I go to more than here?
I can fully endorse the statement quoted above. Except they are made of runny chocolate mixed with oil and water
Other than a fork seal and oil and shim which needed doing when I got it, a few oil changes etc 100% reliable = totally happy.
Take care on the oil drain plug. This too is made of ****. I had to get a mate to weld a spanner to it after it rounded. Gordon Farley's (where I bought the bike) supplied a much better aftermarket plug foc . The standard one has quite a deep 'shoulder' and not much for a spanner to grip. If you think yours is standard it may be worth replacing IMO (saving any bother in future). I know you shouldn't be overtightening them (but the previous owner obviously didn't know that, or it got baked on.) Also apply a bit of fresh oil to the sealing washer and copper grease to the thread.
Don't go too mad with the spacers and much longer bolts as you might find your mudguard starts hitting frame/exhaust etc. when suspension is on full go.
did a trial last week and leaves clogged the front mudguard really bad (so much it stopped the bike and the back wheel just spun, and I had to drag the fuggin thing up a hill before I realised the prob )
So, I know you can get spacers, but being a tighta$$ - is there any reason why I just can't ride without the guard (keep the brace)?
done a google? a while ago I was after a foldable trailer - found some but they are very expensive (I ended up with a single bike trailer which just fits my available space)
You don't need a dip and full beam only working light. It can be a candle for that matter as long as it doesn't blow out when riding.
headlight must conform to some regulations re light pattern emmited - I had an XR600 and bought two lots of Acerbis headlight units (they looked better that standard and bike was supermoto modded) and neither passed an MOT. I ended up taking a daytime only MOT
You're right though, on a KDX you shouldn't require indicators (I think it has something to do with no pillion pegs or 'intended use' or not fitted as standard).
Ok I am trying to clean up an old K-Roo Fantic and I was just wondering what methods you guy use to clean up the old unpainted white mudguards that this bike and many other Fantics had? Its the big rear guard/seat panel and I would like to get it something like white again
Cheers guys for any tips
looks pretty white to me - are you sure it needs doing?
) I had a couple of individuals say they had broken their wrists or arms because of bark busters. Could have been trail or mx riding though, as the trials scene's not so big as it a road bike forum for the most part.
). It won't be a pukka manual, but it may be of use?
, who had a spare he didn't need.
(I ended up with a single bike trailer which just fits my available space)
Is This What Motocrossers Get Up To?
in Anything goes
Posted
that footage is from an old MX vid - motoXXX
the vid is where I got half my user name from (not motoGP or Moto anything else). Outstanding vid, that still holds up against todays offerings - no bull