It is where my boot rubs, i don't think the rivets are loose, Ive had it all apart and it felt very solid, rode without the cover Friday, i had a red mark on my leg for 24 hours
As above out at Button Oak on Sunday and when i washed the bike I could see a black resin on the exhaust, turns out its the plastic cover that's melted to it, anyone experienced this before, know what the cure is?
Blimey - thanks Section Swept! Some great food for thought there which should stir up a proper response. Wonder if things might change when it all goes electric and we maybe end up renting the batteries from manufacturers/dealers with relevant upgrades as the tech improves.
My 4RT is a mint 2016 model and has done pretty much nothing - but 'new' is always nice (as it was when I bought it new) and I always reckoned in the past that if you hadn't trashed the bike, etc. then the optimal time to part company was maybe after 2 years. Oh well, guess I'll keep it for another year or so. I also prefer my Montesas in red rather than the current 4RT colour scheme. At various times since 1978 have had (all red) a 172, 311 and x2 315s before this 4RT with various other bikes in between and breaks (kids, work etc) along the way. Red is the colour.
nb. Herts is where I am but was born in God's own country until my folks moved darn sarf here when I was 15 (think the 172 was a parental bribe to placate my anger...). It's all good down here though apart from the beer!
Sounds like I should wait until 2020 tshock250- will be great if it loses about 5 kilos and only comes in red and the Brexit factor doesn't make it cost 12,000 euros...
Completely agree with the "red" theme, the silver ones just don't look right to me, i have a 16 as well and am do my bets to get it to look right, or more like my brothers 15 as that looks ace.
I'm looking at a Keihin carbed, Rotax engine Easy for a mate, Ive got it started and running and fixed a number of other problems, it has been stood for the last 10 years but is in remarkably good condition.
The bike is rideable at low revs but as soon as you open it up it just will not rev, Ive cleaned out the carbs and changed the plug, compression is okay and getting better the more it is run, its sounds lean, not boggy to me, any ideas ? Ignition timing perhaps??
And my experience on both bikes was pretty much the same as above, the filter is fiddly but easily do-able, I greased the new gaskets to try and stop them ripping in future. I just removed the front bolts on the bash-plate to give me some room.
Just did my new 17 4RT260 and new 17 300RR (well, sort of).
The 260 went like clockwork, case came off easily with gasket intact, after tapping around the edges with a small dead blow hammer. While the filter was a little bit of a pain, I just kind of flattened about 1/2" of the edge of the hat with my needle nose pliers, lined it up with where it needs to rub the outside edge of the case, and it came right out. Grease was the trick on the spring for reinstall. Going in, I found if I spun the flywheel slightly to where the filter lined up with one of the longer slots on the side/round edge of the flywheel, I could press the filter down under the lip on the case, then it popped right in.
On the 300RR, I managed to strip the allen head on one of the rear skidplate bolts, so that took me out of the game as far as replacing the filter. So I just changed the engine and transmission oils. Have ordered 10 of those skid plate bolts, and will drill/easy-out the stripped one at the next oil change.
Used the HTX740 for the transmission and Honda Pro HP4 10W40 for the engine.
Cleaned and oiled the air filters as well.
Thanks for all the help on this forum. Took a little time, but was pretty straightforward.
I replace front and rear skid plate bolt with Ti for very little cost
The angle sensor is not a good emergency engine kill switch, the engine will run for quite a few seconds before shutting off. I've removed on all my bikes, use a lanyard kill switch. Whilst removing it, you can take the opportunity to get rid of a lot of weight and tidy that area up, get a future condenser from H&D and junk the massive Honda one. The future alloy fuel bases and carbon hose, alloy banjos are a good upgrade too. I use a T Miles alloy base for the rectifier as below. You can also see what I did with the bank sensor wires.
I run the wide open one as opposed to the snorkel, but i am thinking of making a stainless gauze to go over the top to collect the larger items of detritus.
The stop plate doesn't use both stop bolt positions, it uses the forward stop bolt and the "protector" bolt position. The protectors don't come on 3ED / 4ED models, but the threaded holes are there in the swingarm. If you tried to use the protector bolt hole as a cam stop hole, it wouldn't work. The axle would slide all the way forward and the cam wouldn't contact the stop bolt in the protector hole.
Look closely, what the plate does is creates a stop location half-way between the normal two stop locations.
4RT Exhaust Cover Melted
in Montesa
Posted
It is where my boot rubs, i don't think the rivets are loose, Ive had it all apart and it felt very solid, rode without the cover Friday, i had a red mark on my leg for 24 hours