Hi Tombo, yes the "the dog bones" can be removed without taking the swinging arm out and there is two triangular shaped flat links as well that will need to come off, or they did on my `04 280 pro unless the newer bikes have a different design.
Hi, I only came back to trials in January after a 21 year break, did loads of homework on the web and went to a local dealer he said they need quite a bit of maintenance and they are a bit of a handful and suggested a second hand Beta he had (kick start on the left no thanks) and a lot of people I spoke to said the same but me being me I bought a 2004 pro280 and its the best trials bike I have ever owned and the only fault with it so far is a set of rear bearings and when I fell off and broke a clutch lever apart from that it has never missed a beat and I love it.
Do you have any model shops near you that sell radio controlled planes, helicopters or cars? as they use a really nice silicone rubber hose for their fuel supply and you can get a meter length for
Hi Dickiem, as Jan rightly points out the rear brake is a real bitch to bleed and it can take several attempts to get the feel just right, the way that works for me is to remove the rubber feed hose from the reservoir and force feed new DOT4 fluid or 5 in the right direction and out through the bleed nipple and then reconnect the reservoir and top up. I tend to change my front brake, rear brake and clutch fluid every 4 months with it being hygroscopic it takes in moisture (water) and loses it effectiveness in time.
Hi Dickiem, is it possible that you may have had some air enter the system and it just needs bleeding? if not the place for AJP brake spares seems to be www.bvm-moto.co.uk, if you are in the UK that is.
Hi Andy, yea just lift the tank off and you should find like a T piece of metal with the black hoses either end and a couple of spade connectors and its near the radiator filler and that's what your looking for the thermostatic switch, try and short the circuit with a little patch lead to see if the fan spins up straight away.
When I go out on my 280 `04 pro I like to let it idle for a couple of minutes then ride around in 3rd or 4th gear to give it chance to warm up then about 15 minutes or so later I check to see if the fan is coming on but usually it takes between 15 and 20 minutes and I keep checking throughout the ride be it a practice or trial session, but it also depends on how hot or cold the day is.
I used to live up near that way, I use a similar boiling water method -I think it's already posted previously somewhere on the GG forum, I like the rawl bolt idea, like a bearing puller.
Anyway, for Andy, there is an aluminium sleeve in between the 2 rear wheel bearings, which has a lip that extends into the bearing ID for about 3mm. If you have access to a lathe, turn a scrap piece of 25mm dia steel bar down to a precise OD to fit into the sleeve with a square shoulder. After heating the aluminium hub with boiling water around the bearing housing, use the drift to tap out the bearing.
The steel spacers usually prise out, if stuck then try a bearing puller or the rawl bolt (Sleeve anchor here) to remove.
Ta ta, PeterB.
Hi Peter, well you couldn't have got much further away than NZ, where did you used to live in the North East? did you ride over here too?
Hi, another way is to use a kettle full of boiling water on the alloy hub, no heat guns or blow torches needed then fit a large Rawl bolt to the inside diameter of the bearing and when it has expanded flog it out with a hammer, quick and easy with no damage hope this helps
Well i've just realised on the 09's that they have a smaller tank than the 08's and the older bikes.
but when i tried my bike yesterday to see how long it would take to run out, just riding about, not doing very much. i filled it up at about 9:00am and then i had to fill it up again off a full tank at about 10:30am,
surely it can't run out so quick, there is no sign of a fuel leak or anything like that, i just don't see why it runs out so quick??
I also compared it to my dad's beta 4t, and in about 4 hours it didn't even use half a tank! and there is only 50cc difference in the bikes.
Thnaks for help
Cheers
Ben.
Hi Ben, its not the engine size that makes the difference between you and your Dad's bike but the fact that yours is a 2 stroke, the 4 stroke design is far better at fuel economy due to the way it burns its fuel, I had over the years a lot of road going Yamaha RD's LC's Power Valves etc etc and while most of my mates on their big 4 strokes would ride all day I would be terrorizing petrol forecourts all day filling up because if you ride a 2 stroke really hard it just eats the fuel.
one and a half hours to the tank full does seem way excessive mind and a smaller tank too, how many liters does it hold? if you say you were just bumbling around was it in lower gears as that does not help either, when it was really cold back in January me and my Daughter ran my `04 280 pro out of juice in about 3 hours in the snow as we could not get any grip and the back wheel just span at high revs.
If you have a air screw - out = more air = leaner.
If you have a fuel screw - out = more gas = richer.
Most delortto carbs on the GG's use a fuel screw. Regardless, You can tell its a fuel screw as its located on the reed block side of the slide. An air screw, as used on the Keihins are on the airbox side.
You should definately be able to resolve 1/2 turn of difference on the adjustment, and 1/4 turn when you get a feel for it.
Hi Laser1, do you know what the standard factory settings would be for the fuel screw on the Delortto? thanks in advance
If your leaking through the spokes - then yes, your rim strip may be damaged/unseated. If you replace it, I like the new ones with the integrated /sealed valve base. Seem to hold air better. However, its not uncommon to have to pump up the tire 1 psi or so before each ride.
When using the tubed tires, what pressures did you run - I'll bet it was higher than on the tubeless. I always had problems when going fast - trying to make up time on the loop and sometimes hit a sharp rock.
Hi Laser1, no it's not just a couple of psi it's totally flat by the weekend and yes your right I can never remember running a tubed back tyre at 6psi, this is the first trials iron I have had in twenty years so it's just me not used to all this new technology
Just like all the modern bikes for that last several years...
I have not ridden a tube style rear wheel in many years and cant imagine going back to all the issues I used to have with tubes - especially now that the rim strips seem to seal so good on the tubless.
I have a `04 280 Pro with said tubeless rear and have to inflate it every weekend before I ride, so must be leaking on the rim somewhere but in all the years with tubed tyres never had any problems at all which is why I asked, many thanks for the reply.
Hi Guys, how do y'all keep your drive chains clean and shiney? the reason I ask is some of the bikes I see on the TC Garage their chains shine and look like they have never seen any dirt or use and mine on my 280 pro `04 is black with sludge/grease.
I was using Silkoleen chain oil spray but have now gone to PJ1 clear chain spray, so should I bath the chain in petrol/degreaser get it totally clean then start again?
How often do you clean strip your chain? any tips or hints would be great.
prevents freezing and reduces electrolytic corrosion,
De ionised water would be better but I've never, ever, heard of someone using it, so I wouldn't bother.
Fill it up just short of the cap, start the bike, squeeze all of the pipes as it warms up to displace any airlocks, and let it idle for a long time, like half an hour, lots of fan on fan off cycles, feel the radiator, top and bottom tanks should get hot. The coolant will expand, push past the cap and 'find it's own level'
I prefer the green antifreezes, but they all work.
Hi Guys, only had the bike 4 weeks and thought maybe an oil change would be good for it and was wondering what oil to use, the manual says 10w40 550cc but I have heard people say use Dexron ATF, auto tranmission fluid? ummmmmmmm so which is best and how often do I need change it?
I tried to upload one of the Metric/SAE torque charts I made, but the software deemed me unworthy.
Use the 2006' Pro owner's manual at: http://www.trialspartsusa.com/manuals/eng.pdf and you'll have the Metric chart. The 04' manual does not carry the torque values for some reason, but you can also download the 2004 manual for the usual settings for your bike.
Cheers.
Jon
Thanks Jon, yea I have the `04 manual and thats what I couldn't understand that there were no settings in that.
Suspension Linkage Bearings
in Gas Gas
Posted
Hi Tombo, yes the "the dog bones" can be removed without taking the swinging arm out and there is two triangular shaped flat links as well that will need to come off, or they did on my `04 280 pro unless the newer bikes have a different design.
Regards.