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When I replaced my car last year, I got a small van (VW caddy). I use it for everything, doesn
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No, I went with the gear oil again. The clutch is good once I have broken it loose in the start of the ride. I usually start the bike in gear when it is warm, there is hardly any clutch dragging.
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Thanks Masso. Please let us know how the
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Hi all
Is there a good online source for scorpa parts?
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Hi
The scorpa sy250 has a reputation of being reliable.
But - the oil sump plug is made of soft material, the head of the plug(bolt) deforms and it (the plug) gets stuck. If you buy the scorpa you should replace the stock plug with a better one, if it has not been done already.
Some guys have had problems with the mid-section of the exhaust splitting, easy enough to weld it up again, not a big problem. The clutch gets stuck if the bike is not used for a while, but frees within seconds when you get the hang of it.
I have had my
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Thanks guys. The clutch on my bike is not really a problem. After a few meters the clutch brakes free, and then works very well. Just like Pete described.
I
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Hi all
My ‘06 SY250 has a little clutch sticking problem at the beginning of a ride. Nothing big, but I could do without it.
Has anyone here run ATF type F in their SY250 (Yamaha engine)? Any problems? Leaks? Less or more clutch sticking?
I read someplace that Dextron ATF can cause clutch plate swelling…. but I don’t know if it is true.. anyone know?
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Hi
I have a SY250 longride 2006.
Without having done it myself, it is my understanding that the long ride seat/tank bolts directly on. Obviously you remove the stock tank first. The long ride tank holds about 5 liters.
The SY250 long-ride model has lower quality forks than the standard SY250. So a standard SY250 with a long ride kit sounds good…
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Nice bikes, reliable and user friendly.
Check the sump plug, common problem.
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Ok. Thanks guys.. Great info.
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Hi all.
I need to carry a spare spark plug in my tool kit, since I am going for longer rides. I searched this forum and found that people are using plugs with different heat range. From 5 to 8. Confusing.
Some examples:
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Strange. Maybe the PO overfilled the engine with oil?
As previously said, in my experience you need to remove the sump plug to get the oil out. I tried using the little plug under the shifter (like Masso) but only got out a little, maybe 50-100 ml. I don
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Interesting, thanks. I took a look in google earth. Seems like a really beautiful place. Maybe I will take a look sometimes, when I visit my sister in Vancouver..
Sorry to wander offtopic, I will keep focused from now on..
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Masso, I had a 250 Ninja parts engine lying in the garage, so I checked.
Unfortunately you have to remove the sump plug. The drain plug under the shifter is not enough. I removed it, and laid the bike on its side for maybe 24 hours. Only got a little oil out…
Btw, where is salt-spring island?
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Masso, this is the sump plug paulmac and Godzilla are talking about in this thread. It is made out of soft material. It
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Congrads, nice bike
You should take the sump plug advice seriously, if the plug is not stuck already. If it is stuck, no fun at all..
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Hi
As far as I know, they are not repacked. No way to get them apart except with a hacksaw.
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Charlie, nice pictures.
If you feel like going again someday, maybe you should consider going in late July or in August ? At that time all the wilderness areas/deserts are open (snow melted) .
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Hi
I had a similar problem a few weeks ago on my SY250 2006. I tried bleeding the system, but that did not help. I took the master cylinder apart and all looked fine. After reassembly I took my time bleeding the system and got the air out. I tried pumping the brake fluid in from the caliper but that did not work well, I got the air out in the
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Hi
If you are new to Scorpa, here you have some info. The Scorpa SY250 has a clutch that may stick. The engine oil will make a difference, some oils will lessen/eliminate the problem, other oils will not.
I got my scorpa sy only a few months back so I am not an expert. But FWIW I had a bad problem with the clutch. It would not only stick when I started the ride but even after having the engine off for only a few minutes the clutch would stick again.
I don
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I dropped by the local GasGas dealership today. The front brake pads are not the same in the newer GasGas bikes and the Scorpa SY250.
Will the (front brake) pads from a Sherco fit?
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Thanks.
The disk is fine, it is not damaged. I am hoping the pads are junk, but will check the pistons in the caliper. Also clean the disk.
Any advice regarding which pads to buy? I am not worried about feel and modulation at this point, just want the pads that will give me the strongest brakes
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Hi all
The front brake on my ’06 SY 250 is weak. The brake lever feels firm, there is no air in the system.
I suspect the brake pads have been contaminated with fork oil since the left fork had a small leak when I got the bike.
Yesterday I did take the brake pads out, cleaned them with solvent and then re-surfaced them using sandpaper. That did not help.
Any tips what to do next? The brake pads had a ‘GG’ in the product number, is the front brake the same in Scorpa and GASGAS? Is there a known problem with the front brake of the SY250? If so, how can I fix it?
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Thanks guys.
So I definitely do not have to go 40:1. Makes me wonder why Scorpa recommends it. Maybe they want to recommend something extra-save like Chewy said.
I have been using Ipone semi-synthetic for years on my enduro bikes with great results. I guess I will use it for the Scorpa also and try mixing apprx. 65:1 to start with.
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