harvey_mushman

Sorry for the delay in getting the info. I had surgery last friday and am off work for at least a week so I should be able to help you with getting the dimensions you need. It sounds you are looking for a tank mount to swing arm pivot dimension. I get 692mm Swingarm itsself has two tubes which the pivot bolt passes through. They measure 70mm (around 3"). They are fitted with grease fittings. The pivot also passes through the triangular rear engine mount. I've uploaded a bunch of pictures during the diassembly of the bike. Maybe this will help you in finding what you are looking for. http://s259.photobucket.com/albums/hh316/z...erpa%20T%20350/ Let me know if there is anything else specific you are looking for. Matt

I've got a model 183. What sort of dimensions are you looking for? Swing arm is in the bike which was completely disassembled two months ago, so I can't take it apart. I should still be able to pull most critical measurements. Forgive me if my following replies are slow. Things are pretty hectic 'round here. Matt

Thanks for the reply guys. I went to check out the Shell we have a couple blocks away only to find it closed and underconstruction. I try to never leave fuel in the tanks of my non-road-going bikes just to avoid any possible issue with the fuel going bad or leaking between uses. Thanks for the input, Matt

Hello all, I've got a '77 Bultaco Sherpa T 350. It has a fiberglass tank. I'm concerned with putting ethanol-based gasoline in the tank. I've been told by several people and read that the ethanol dissolves the fiberglass resin causing the tank to weep fuel over time. I've also read online regarding concerns about its solvents. As far as I am able to research, all Ontario pump gas contains at least 10 % ethanol by law. I've got several takes on preventing this but was hoping to gage your opinions on the subject. 1. Tank was "sealed" by previous owner using an unknown chemical. The "Kreem" tank sealer website states that it may not be compatible with some fiberglass tanks. Any suggestions on an appropriate sealer or treatment technique? 2. My local MX performance shop sells race fuel. The fuel contains no ethanol. It is also lead-based. The trade off is that the fuel is over $100 taxes in for a 20L pail ($5/L). I plan on riding as frequently as possible, maybe 1 to 2 weeks a month. This route could get very expensive. 3. I'm 2-1/2 hours from the Buffalo border. A cross border fuel run is not out of question but really inconvenient. Plus I am not certain on what type of fuel is available across the border anyway. I appreciate any opinions you may have. Matt

Thats excellent! Congradulations

Are points gap and timing correctly? If out of adjustment you will still have spark. Best of luck, Matt

The other area of weight reduction I've been examining are aluminum body shocks. Of course, the rider could also stand to loose 10 to 15 lbs too!. I'm out Kitchener-Waterloo. I'll check into my schedule for the MOTA event. I've set a lofty goal making it out to 1 trial for my first full season. Here's the bike stripped down and trimmed out.

Are you shutting the fuel off between starts? I have a Yamaha DT250 Enduro that will fill the crackcase with fuel if I forget to shut it off after running. Float valve needle and seal are new, bike runs great, yet it still finds a way to flood out.

Hello, A few months back I aquired a '77 Bultaco Sherpa T 350. It is a model 183. Bike came with a street ownership. It is equipped with Headlight, taillight, horn and all the necessary switches and buttons. I'm building the bike with the intent of using it to improve my riding skills as well as participate in the occasional vintage trial event. I've been removing the road going equipment to save weight and prevent any wear and tear to these items. One day when a full restoration is in order I can reinstall these items. I'm worried I may damage an aluminum fender or hard to find/expensive component like the speedometer. I've been tracking the weights of the items as I remove/replace them. Plastic components going on the bike: Front fender 7 oz Rear Fender 9 oz Front Number Plate (lexan) 2-1/2 oz Components removed from the bike: Aluminum Front Fender with Mud Flap 15 oz Aluminum Rear Fender with Taillamp 32 oz Headlight 7-1/2 oz Headlight Bucket with light socket 13 oz Headlight Ears (2) 9 oz Horn 4-1/2 oz Resistor 2 oz Wire Harness, Kill, Light Switch 9 oz Speedometer 4 oz Speedometer Drive 7 oz Speedometer Cable 5 oz. A grand total of 5 lbs 10 oz of weight will be removed. Probably not a huge difference on a 210 lb bike. But definately a huge improvement. Here are some before pics.

Your bike is coming together well! Hows the weather holding out on your end of the county? My bike is also in peices. This is the first November I can remember without any real snow to speak of. I should have mine back together just in time fir the first huge snowfall. I haven't had to source any parts for my Bing yet. I think you can find them out of Bing USA. I know a few guys racing vintage Can-Am bikes. They occasionally have luck sourcing parts for the Bing carbs they run through local Ski-doo, Bombardier Recreational Product (BRP) dealers. Mostly NOS parts. Have you checked your timing? My bike (which is a '77 model 183) would start from cold poorly. From hot it was usually pretty good. When I tore it apart this year, I was surprised to see how far out the timing and points gap was. I beleive someone had adjusted the timing by fidgiting with the points gap. The gap is adjustable through the flywheel access hole. Mine was set to about .004" with spec being .016" (I'm going from memory so forgive me if I'm off a little.). Those points were hardly opening and the weak spark I had reflected that. I've since reset the points gap and have a bright, hot spark. Opening up the points gap to spec has thrown off my base timing a ton (almost 3mm of stroke to far advanced). I am currently waiting on a flywheel puller I've ordered to complete the adjustment. I expect a huge difference in how my bike starts and runs after dialing in the timing. Good luck, Matt

Went through this after receiving my bike. A slight adjustment of the float heigh lower solved it. The beauty of the Bing is that you can remove the bowl by simply flicking the bowl clip off. No need to remove the carb or rotate it. Wish my other Mikuni equipped bikes were this tuning friendly.

My Clymer manual (1977 edition) rates the 250 at 14.1 hp @5500 and the 350 at 18.5 hp @8500. I never would have though that my Sherpa 350 was pushing 18 horse. Power transmission is super smooth and predictable. 1st or 2nd gear from a dead stop got me moving no problem (i weigh 190lbs). My speedometer is currently not working but I'd wager she'll top out close to 50mph too. My Haines manual (72-75 model years) rates the 250 at 20 hp @5500 and the 350 at 21.5@5500. Not sure if one is in error, or if hp numbers declined in the later part of the 70's.

Here's a '77 for sale out in Calgary. http://calgary.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-m...QAdIdZ164481211 Same year as mine (except I've got a 350 model). Conditon is about same as mine. This bike could use a cleaning. I think this particular one in its present condition should be in the $1800-2000 range. The bike looks solid. A good cleaning and detailing would really do this bike a favour. This bike looks like a better start to a restoration or a vintage competition bike as it looks to have been untouched through its life span. Matt