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Ty250r


pat
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Hi,

Searching for a work shop in the UK who offers the same knowlegde and machining as B&J Racing US.

Need to optimise my squish band and port the cylinder.

Im even interested of data for correct squish and head cc, so I can send it to a work shop closer to home.

About porting, guess only encreasing width gives benefits.

My TY250R-84 set up

Engine

Boyesen #663

Sammy pipe

Tot rebuilt engine

Pilot 44(have tested 35 and 40, but RON105 dont cover the pinging)The marks on ign.plate/crank case matches.

Main 122.5(mikuni)

Extended clutch lever

Twin air, same as TYZ

Single grade W30

Synt 2-s, 1.4%

Chassie

Extended shock(no leaking) and encreased pre-load set up

GasGas-04 front wheel

Stainless for rear brake (instead of the stupid wire)

Chain wheels from B&C

Lovely Michelin

Thinking of:

Engine

Dismantle the fly wheel weight, running with clutch all the time any way

Rebore and port cyl

Machining squish

Wiseco for IT

Mikuni VM28

Alloy repackable middle- and end silencer

Maybe an TYZ-like pipe

Alloy kick start

Chassie

New front end springs, fresh stock Nm/mm

Lower the foot pegs 25mm and modern wide

New rear wheel, unbelivable the hub has been welded before I bought it, could coop with a used stock hub

A smaller tank unit

Maybe lower the air box

Mini clutch lever

post-3532-1162317533.jpg

Edited by Pat
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Hi Pat,

The exhaust port needs raising quite a lot and widening a touch, I have the required dims somewhere which I'll try and dig out, the later pistons also have shaped crowns. I think I took about about 10mm off the flywheel, again I'd have to check. The inlet tract/manifold was shortened by apprx 12mm which then moves the carb and airbox down and forward, this makes BIG difference especially bottom end. Finally I advanced the ignition 3-4mm. You end up with a quieter, smoother and more poky motor which is far usable in sections. There was a brand new ally kickstart on ebay this week .

I'll try and find all the Dims and PM you with them

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