Tyre Change

[stuessenhigh]

Hi all,

Its time to change the front tyre on my Beta Rev 3

I've already done the back one..which was OK...but I've never changed a front one before. I assume the bolt things are to grip the tyre on??..so presumably I have to undo those first??....but presumably they are pretty fiddly on replacing the tyre?...Then I guess I have to be pretty carefull not to pinch the inner-tube with the tyre levers.

If any of you can give me some advice I'd really appreciate it. THANKS

[charliechitlins]

Yup...the bolt things grip the tire.

Take off the nuts and push the stud in as far as you can before you start levering.

Once you take it all apart, you'll see what they do.

I do wheel work on a spackle bucket...don't put it on the floor...and you won't lose parts that you put/drop in.

Take out the valve core and get all the air out.

Break the entire bead on both sides.

I always push the lever in as far as I can, then back it out as far as possible before prying the bead up. This pushes the tube out of the way.

When removing or installing, squeeze the beads together 180deg from where you are working so they go into the dropped center of the rim.

This gives you 'slack' where you are working.

Use the levers as little as possible. As soon as you can stop using them and prying with your hands, the less chance you'll have of pinching the tube.

When you get one whole bead out, remove the tube.

Put the lever through the bead that's still on, go right through and over the other side of the rim, and lever towards the side that's off. The tire should pop right off.

For installing, use plenty of slippery stuff...soapy water, tire mounting fluid...I like Goop hand cleaner.

Get one bead on and squeeze the tube in (I put the valve stem in first and put a nut on to keep it there).

The books all say,'put a little air in the tube to make it round, This will prevent pinching' To me, this just gets the tube closer to the rim, bead and your lever.

I leave the tube empty and push it as far from the bead as possible.

Again, get as much tire on as possible before using the levers. You'll need to keep one lever in while you work the other, or you'll be chasing the bead around the rim all night.

When you get toward the end of the second bead, pull the levers as far as you can, crunch down the top of the tire and hold it there for a few seconds. Sometimes that last bit of bead will just creep on.

If you can't get the last bit of bead on, hit the tire, by the un-seated bead with a rubber, leather or plastic dead-blow hammer.

Let me know if you have a problem or are confused about my ramblings.

I've done hundreds...

[alan bechard]

I think it was Jon Stoodley that said not to bring the tire Irons over past 90 degrees. Good advice, I do not always follow, but good advice.

Alan's advice is,

Good bucket or drum or some form of stand so you are not rolling around on the ground. Charlie's spackle bucket works well.

Nice tire Irons, polished and smooth with no sharp edges.

Patience, try not to let it get too you.

Have a spare new tube on hand, the odds of pinching a tube are directly proportional to the hassle it will be to get another!

Then again, if you are like my buds, hmmm, Jeff, Bruce, Randy and others, it only takes about one beer to get me to do them for you! Then when I pinch the tube, it is on me!

[jtt]

HERE is a link to a website with tire changing information. It's streetbike based, but the principals are the same. The pictures may help some, but Charlie and Alan have pretty much covered it.

Be patient, take small bites (don't be greedy) and make sure the opposite side of the tire are in the hollow of the rim...the rest will all fall into place. It shouldn't take great force on the levers, if your doing it right. In fact a very respected journalist (Kevin Cameron) once said that a tire lever should be no longer than your hand...if you need more, your doing it wrong

ps. also what I tell the wife

Edited April 6, 2004 by JTT

[charliechitlins]

Definitely polish/buff the levers.

Some also say to never use the curved end of the iron when installing.

This is probably good advice, but I use it all the time.

I haven't pinched a tube in years.

Knock wood.

As for the 90 degree thing...I think this is the first time I'll have to disagree with Jon...who, by the way, has been doing this longer and better than I have.

When you get to that last bit, and the levers are about a foot apart, if you know you're not pinching the tube, why risk pulling out a lever and re-inserting it at the time when it will be most difficult to tell if you're pinching the tube?

I say jack those levers all the way over and hold them there for about 15 seconds and watch the bead creep on.

[jtt]

Some also say to never use the curved end of the iron when installing.

Why would that be I wonder? I always use the curved end of my Michelin style (can't find the real ones anymore ).

Another trick I use is to round the tube up with air before prying the final side of the tire on (without the valve core in). This forms the tube up into the tire and well clear of the tire levers.

[stuessenhigh]

Thanks all...

Especially Charlie..must have taken you ages to type all that.

MUCH appreciated...and I'm sure its going to help loads.

Only one thing I'm still wondering.

I assume its obvious when I get the tyre off...but is there anything special I have to do to re position the thing that grips the tyre in place, or is it just do up the bolt again?

[jtt]

Just make sure the rim lock is all the way in place, then tighten it down. I usually start the final side install from the rim lock and work my way around, that way I know it's in right.

[alan bechard]

I usually inflate the tire after it is re-installed and insure that the bead is properly and evenly seated on the wheel, at that point, I tighten down the rim locks, then deflate the tire to operational pressure.