alexei Posted February 27, 2007 Report Share Posted February 27, 2007 I am after some advise on my TXT 03's clutch. The bike has got some drag in the clutch so I have tried everything to rectify it. I firstly tried bleeding the system, following instructions in an earlier forum thread (that is no longer listed in the forum -where has it gone?? -these old forum threads are a good resource). I tried adjusting the lever. Then I got technical and replaced the two rubber seals in the clutch slave piston. I then sent the clutch away to get new plates in it & reset. I then rebled the system. None of these steps seems to have improved it. I have a feeling I may be bleeding the clutch incorrectly, and there maybe some air still trapped??? Can anyone help, as it's a bleeding pain (-nice pun ) in the @rse, and I just want to go riding. Thanks Alexei Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lineaway Posted February 28, 2007 Report Share Posted February 28, 2007 Is it the old txt engine or the pro? If it is the txt chances are that you have adjusted it too far in and now the piston in the master cylinder can not work properly. try backing it out most of the way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexei Posted March 1, 2007 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2007 Hi there No it's not the old TXT, its the Pro, - well that's what's written on the tank & swingarm. I didn't realise there was a difference. Cheers Alexei Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtt Posted March 1, 2007 Report Share Posted March 1, 2007 Alexei, First question I would have is what gearbox oil are you using? This is important because the fibre plates of Pros are effected by some oils and causes swelling and therefore clutch drag. You should use the recommended non-synthetic ATF (automatic transmission fluid). As for bleeding. Yes, they can be a PIA to bleed. Not sure of your technique but the best success I've had is using a syringe on the slave end and pushing fluid up to the master cylinder. Take the top off the master and let it overflow. It's messy, be warned. If it's particularly stubborn, I'll push fluid up for a little, then draw back on the syringe slightly pulling some fluid back...and often an air bubble as well. Now, when you changed the seals on the slave, did you make sure everything was surgically clean? Also both seals should be lightly coated with silicone grease. I've put in seals without the grease and had them fail almost immediately. With a little grease, and extreme cleanliness, they'll work fine and for an extended period of time. Hope these things help. I don't get on here as much as I used to so feel free to drop me an email if you have any more trouble. I've spent a fair amount of time on these. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexei Posted March 1, 2007 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2007 Hey Joe (cool song) Thanks very much for your response. I have switched to the ATF Dextron 3 in the box, which did help improve it a little. WRT bleeding, I have carried out the syringe technique, however I didn't know about the drawing back to free the bubble. This may be what is causing my issues, as I have heard that a bubble tends to lurk in the banjo fitting when bleeding. I will give this a try tonight to see if I can free the little bugger from it's hiding spot. When I replaced the seals I ensured everything was perfectly clean. The Australian importer told me that if I didn't have silicone I could use a fine film of the clutch hydraulic fluid, although he warned me of the dangers of any other form of mineral oil contamination. I paid particular attention to this to ensure I didn't stuff it. Thanks again, & I'll let you know how I go. Cheers Alexei Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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