I agree that fixing it properly is best.

First thing...... i'd find yourself a new bike shop. 15 quid to help you each time is taking the p*ss

Second... get down to the local bicycle shop and ask for a bottle of tyre sealant (Stans is one brand) which are mostly - 1 part liquid latex rubber to one part water. Squirt in 150-200ml through the valve hole with a pointy nozzle bottle (remove the valve core first). Ride your bike and the leaking will stop the next day. Happy me with this trick.

Ralphy

I've been using Putoline bead sealant to fit TL tyres recently - good results so far...

I agree that fixing it properly is best.

First thing...... i'd find yourself a new bike shop. 15 quid to help you each time is taking the p*ss

Second... get down to the local bicycle shop and ask for a bottle of tyre sealant (Stans is one brand) which are mostly - 1 part liquid latex rubber to one part water. Squirt in 150-200ml through the valve hole with a pointy nozzle bottle (remove the valve core first). Ride your bike and the leaking will stop the next day. Happy me with this trick.

Ralphy

I may give that a go. I have seen that tyre slime stuff advertised for tubed bicycle tyres and I was wondering if it would work. I think it may even come with a tool to remove the valve core. Thanks for that.

Hi

The slime product DOES NOT work. I tried this first. I run tubeless MTB tyres with amazing results so i thought i'd try the MTB sealant. It worked. Note that it doesn't last for ever so you have to 'top it up in 6mths time.

Ralph

Hi

The slime product DOES NOT work. I tried this first. I run tubeless MTB tyres with amazing results so i thought i'd try the MTB sealant. It worked. Note that it doesn't last for ever so you have to 'top it up in 6mths time.

Ralph

Sorry, are you saying that the slime works or that you found another product which did work. If so, what is it called. Thanks

I recently bought a rev 3, 2004. It had a tube in the rear.

Had a couple of punctures & decided to get it back tubeless.

Biggest advantage of tubeless I could see is being able to run at lower pressures with less chance of puncturing.

Did all the usual things you see on the forum, new rim tape (new type with integral valve) cleaned it etc.

Leaked through spokes & rim.

After many attempts I went for the following method, it worked perfectly.

(1) Fit rim tape

(2) Bead of Sikaflex applied between rim & rim-tape (not under rim tape)

(3) Let cure for 24 hours

(4) Fit Tyre

This stops any leak through the spokes.

I still had a small leak through sides of rim, I added 'Puncture Free' - OKI offroad puncture into the tyre.

This sealed up any rim leaks.

I am hoping it will also sort out any small 'nicks' during competition.

My tyre loses no pressure.

Fingers crossed !!!

My old Zero had 'reverse spokes' where the nipple was in the hub and the rim had a flange around the inside edge for the spoke end. There were no spoke holes to leak and if you broke a spoke you could replace it on the bike without tyre removal. Why did this change back to conventional spoking? I though it was a great idea!