bigshineybike Posted March 15, 2009 Report Share Posted March 15, 2009 I have tried and tried, read the manual and studied the wiring diagram but I cannot work out how to check with a multimeter when the points open. In all the books it says to connect to the black lead on the coil and any ground point. Some also say to remove the condenser wire while doing this. I have removed the condenser ready to fix it up under the tank where the heat wont affect it so much? My continuity buzzer simply buzzes constantly trying to set the ohms at different values has no effect either It looks to me from the wiring diagram that the points are grounded through one of the generator coils. What am I missing? Thanks for any help on this. Alex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tayld Posted March 15, 2009 Report Share Posted March 15, 2009 (edited) You are right when you say the points are grounded out through a coil in the flywheel stator. To get a changed reading on your multi-meter when the points open remove both wires (coil and condenser) from the terminal on the points. Fit a single cable of your own to the points terminal and thread this through one of the holes in the stator base plate and out from under the rim of the flywheel. Connect one cable of your multi-meter to this lead and the other lead to a good earth on the engine. With points closed there will be a circuit, with the points open there will be no circuit as indicated by your buzzer. An analogue meter with a moving needle gives a very good indication of the moment the points open, with the setting on ohms there will be a full swing of the needle when the points open. I remove the flywheel first on my 349 to fit the replacement wire and to slacken the three stator clamping screws. Replace the flywheel and set the points gap. Check and set the timing. Remove the flywheel again, tighten the stator screws, remove your extra cable and refit the original cables. Replace the flywheel and tighten the nut to the required torque. Check the points gap again. it should not need adjusting. To remove and tighten the flywheel nut I use a Sammy Miller steel band type flywheel holding tool. This holds the flywheel firmly without causing any damage. I have stators which have been ruined by trying to lock the flywheel with a screwdriver or similar through the points adjusting window, the proper holding tool is worth every penny. Hope the above helps. Edited March 15, 2009 by Tayld Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
belldane Posted March 21, 2009 Report Share Posted March 21, 2009 Geez you two people must be purists!!! I tried doing the timing on my 348 the same as you. connecting wires and disconnecting them, ommbuzzers, etc etc. and by the end I got sick of it. If you have a good spark and provided the points are not worn this is what I do. File the points with a very fine grade wet and dry paper and clean them afterwards by inserting a bit of paper dipped in metho. Keep on doing this until the points contacts come up clean. Turn the flywheel clockwise until you see the points opening to their highest point and adjust between 14 and 16 thou. Take the plug out and put a dial gauge in its place. Rotate the flywheel anti clockwise and then clockwise to find tdc and lock it. Turn the flywheel again anticlockwise and when you have the highest opening of the points insert a bit of cigarette paper between the points and slighty go anticlockwise again until the paper is tight between the points. Now the good bit. Very slowly turn the flywheel clockwise having a hold of the ciggy paper and looking at the gauge, and from memory points on the 348 should be begin to open at 1.8mm btc. (Correct me if Iam wrong) You will notice a slight hold on the paper when the points begin to open and firing in the cylinder occurs. This may sound a complicated but practice makes perfect. I have been doing it on all sorts of bikes for over 40 years and it works for me. See ya Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave dix Posted March 21, 2009 Report Share Posted March 21, 2009 I bring the mag to firing point then loosen the points screw , tap them, then do up the screw and the heel should be just touching the cam. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
belldane Posted March 23, 2009 Report Share Posted March 23, 2009 Dave Never thought of that. Good idea but can you see the cam and the heel through that little hole? I will have a good look next time I have the cover off. Thanks for that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigshineybike Posted March 31, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2009 Thanks all. I had been doing the thin paper trick because that does let you easily know when the points are opening. It IS the easiest way. Frankly with so much wear and tear in my engine 1.8 mm btdc is difficult to measure accuratly. My question started since the clymer manula makes it sound so easy, taking the flywheel off isnt a job to do just for the fun of it. My bikes running better now ticks over much slower and sounds much better than it was with the points set by eye. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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