andysv1k Posted May 31, 2009 Report Share Posted May 31, 2009 Came home today with a 2003 TXT 250 in the back of the van. Its my first venture into trials. ridden road bikes for years but only ridden off road a few times and never ridden a trials bike at all. Cant wait to get the bike sorted, find a place and start having a play on it. The bike has a couple of issues that i know of. May find more though as i go through it. Firstly the front brake is slightly less than useless. i suspected it just needed bleeding, but now im not so sure. gave it a quick go and couldnt seem to get any air out of it. will have to get myself sorted with a syringe so i can reverse bleed it i think. May also want a new master cylinder as it looks like its had a bodge repair. The forks need re-sealing, no idea whats involved in this or even if i can do it myself as ive never stripped a pair of forks before. Is it worth re-springing at the same time? Lastly the clutch seems to drag a little, although to be fair i havnt ridden it long enough to warm up properly yet so that may prove to be no problem at all. Well any advice people can offer, im all ears, had a look through this section of the site and lots of useful info already gained. Andy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anyoldiron Posted June 1, 2009 Report Share Posted June 1, 2009 Hi Andy.I remembr seeing a video on the Gas Gas site explaining how to do the fork seals.There is also the same video on youtube.I found it helpful for my Beta which was fairly simple in the end.On mine there was a retaining clip under the dust cap that I didnt notice at first and I needed to heat the tube to finally pull the slider out of the bottom tube.Other than that it was straightforward and I imagine the GG is too.Probably got the same Paolis anyway. Clutches on trials machines are generally quite tricky at cold.They are relatively big and designed to be used as we use them so try to forgive them being a bit of a pain after start up.I cant engage first and can only clunk into second from cold.When everything is warm there is no problem.Dont know about the brake thing but I am sure you can find it in the archive here or some helpful soul will tell you what to do .All the best.Enjoy the bike. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andysv1k Posted June 2, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 Thanks for the reply Chris, very helpful. I'll go have a search on youtube. I had all the front brake off yesterday, stripped the caliper and cleaned it all as it was a bit mucky! I have a feeling i need a new master cylinder as when i put it all back together, reverse bled it and there is still almost no movement of the caliper pistons. There is a little o-ring in the caliper that im going to change too as it didnt look in great condition, i dont think it was leaking, but while its in bits im gonna find a new one for it. What are peoples thoughts on third party master cylinders? Is it worth looking around, or just get an oem one? Im guessing when sorted i should be able to stand the bike on its end with one finger on the front brake? where as at the moment with four fingers pulling the lever right back to the bar the braking force is probably the same as shutting the throttle! Andy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scotty97 Posted June 2, 2009 Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 Most of the master cylinders (Brake & Clutch) are made by AJP, do a search on google cause the prices are quite reasonable or you can buy a full seal kit for around 15 squid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andysv1k Posted June 2, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 Just been out and got a repair kit for the master cylinder and a seal kit for the caliper. hopefully after that the brake will be like new again! Now before my next question, an apology to the forum! my input to the forum has been pretty much take take take and will be for some time, the thing is, i know nothing about trials and very little about trials bike engines. As i learn i hope to be able to give back with help. so with that in mind.... Anyone got any tricks for getting the caliper pistons out? havnt tried yet so they may just pop out easily, but if the bike has any continuity they will be a right pig! bearing in mind that the master cylinder wont push them out (i guess i could sort that end first but i was hoping to strip the lot and clear out all the old fluid then rebuild as clean and fill it) Andy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scotty97 Posted June 3, 2009 Report Share Posted June 3, 2009 When i'v stripped car brake calipers in the past, i've either used a compressed air line to gently push piston out, or if not available i'v used a foot pump (using the little red plastic adaptor that normally come with the footpump). Hope this Helps PS. If your using compressed air, make sure you put something in front of pistion so it doesnt shoot accross the room!!!!!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andysv1k Posted June 3, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2009 PS. If your using compressed air, make sure you put something in front of pistion so it doesnt shoot accross the room!!!!!!!!!!! I can see it now, having to explain to the other half why the kitchen window is smashed "er.... it was my brakes....sorry " i had a go at it last night and it wasnt too bad. my little tip for removing caliper pistons... use a pair of long nose pliers and cover them in something rubber, i used self amalgamating tape as its soft and rubbery, you might get away with wrapping an elastic band around it. put the pliers inside the dish of the piston and apply a strong outward force (opening the pliers) then just gently pull away from the caliper. do it slowly otherwise you will be fighting the air rushing into the caliper that displaces the piston. hey presto out they pop. Andy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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