TXT 280 (2003) clutch problem

[tomhighcliffe]

Hello, literally only just joined the forum after owning my gasgas for a few weeks.

It needed a gearbox oil change so I removed the sump plug and other bolt at the top where you refill the oil, and let all the dirty grey oil drain away, i cleaned off the swarf from the sump plug and replaced before refilling with approx 400ml of oil. (I didnt measure it, just waited until the window was full as some of the other threads suggest)

However this has created a problem with my clutch.

Once the bike is started, pull the clutch in, engage 1st or 2nd gear and the bike stalls, the clutch is clearly not disengaging as it should. Previously it was fine, separated cleanly from hot or cold but now it wont.

Is there something I have done wrong in the oil change process that has caused this problem? Im reluctant to replace the clutch as it was perfect before this.

Thanks

Tom

[boni_tou_1]

what oil did you replace with if it was synthetic it may be to sticky and the clutch plates are sicking together.

ATF Dexron 3 is good to use.

if you put the bike in gear as it is and make sure you are in a open space the bike will prob move forward if you shift into RD and keep the clutch pulled in then this may free the plates,

I removed the clutch plates and did a similar cleaning operation as detailed in Beta clutch fix ( pin top the top of the Beta page of this forum.

oil level should be half way up sight glass

Hope the helps

[hrcmonty]

Only use ATF in the Pro series.

Don't use anything else, your clutch plates will swell up.

[tomhighcliffe]

Thanks for your replys

I used the oil that the guy gave me with the bike, it is IPONE Box 2 Synthesis 'High pressure gear box and clutch fluid'

Its nearly all gone now anyway so I will buy this new oil your recommending, would you recommend also flushing out the other oil and replacing it?

I stupidly forgot to mention before that the clutch lever adjustment bolt had fallen out on the previous ride to my oil change, so I put a new bolt in at the same time as changing the oil, I screwed it in just so it held the piston in place, I have just been out on a short ride and the bike was fine. Before I went out I turned the bolt slightly further in and this seemed to help sort the problem out. Although I fear now all I am doing is riding along with the clutch slightly engaged all the time?

Thanks

Tom

[tomhighcliffe]

Only use ATF in the Pro series.

Don't use anything else, your clutch plates will swell up.

What is ATF? Automatic transmission fluid? If so, is there a recommended brand that I should look for?

Thanks

[hrcmonty]

Hiya, yeah sure.

Use ATF Dexron 3, or Putoline ATF Dexron IID 1l

[bigfoot]

I think the problem is more likely to be the clutch master cylinder than the oil from your description. I'd bleed the clutch using the reverse bleeding technique (take the top off the master cylinder and push fluid back up from the bleed nipple on the engine case until no bubbles are seen and ideally you

[richt]

What is ATF? Automatic transmission fluid? If so, is there a recommended brand that I should look for?

Thanks

I am using Castrol TQ-D (it is ATF Dextronlll) most car spares shops sell it.

[boni_tou_1]

I use super market (Morrison's)

[jse]

Thanks for your replys

I used the oil that the guy gave me with the bike, it is IPONE Box 2 Synthesis 'High pressure gear box and clutch fluid'

Its nearly all gone now anyway so I will buy this new oil your recommending, would you recommend also flushing out the other oil and replacing it?

I stupidly forgot to mention before that the clutch lever adjustment bolt had fallen out on the previous ride to my oil change, so I put a new bolt in at the same time as changing the oil, I screwed it in just so it held the piston in place, I have just been out on a short ride and the bike was fine. Before I went out I turned the bolt slightly further in and this seemed to help sort the problem out. Although I fear now all I am doing is riding along with the clutch slightly engaged all the time?

Thanks

Tom

Tom,

Dexron ATF is probably the best fluid to use in the 03'. You mentioned taking out dirty grey oil and if it is a light grey, you may have coolant in the trans fluid which will affect clutch action.

The adjustment screw on the lever must not put any pressure on the plunger that goes through the rubber boot with the lever out at rest-ever. If the first part of travel of the lever does not build pressure there is a possibility that the seal in the master cylinder needs replacing. The master cylinder bore will have a slight taper after a few years use with the first part, under the most use, having a slightly larger diameter.

The seal lip, being worn (smaller diameter), will not seal during the first part of travel but then start to seal when it hits the smaller part of the bore. A master cylinder rebuild kit will solve this.

Turning the screw in will temporarily "help" the problem by starting the piston further down into the bore, but it will create a bigger problem by sealing off the bleed hole (between the bore and the reservoir) which makes it a "closed system" that can't equalize itself and your clutch problem will rapidly increase.

Jon

[tomhighcliffe]

Again thanks alot for your replies, it would appear, for now, that the problem has gone, I have checked the clutch lever and there is a small amount of play/rattle when the clutch lever is fully out, so im pretty confident that plunger is being allowed to also come fully out.

I will be buying the new oil this weekend and change it over just to make sure. As a general rule how many rides inbetween gearbox fluid changes? Ive been told every 2 rides but this just seems so excessive, but I am new to this game so im learning new things all the time. Usually my rides last around 2 hours on my local route to my favourite spots.

Something strange happened on todays ride however, the engine didnt not seem to be running right at all, perhaps a misfire but im still unsure where the problem is coming from.

I fear I may have bought a dodgy bike and this could be the tip of the iceberg

Thanks

Tom

[jse]

Something strange happened on todays ride however, the engine didnt not seem to be running right at all, perhaps a misfire but im still unsure where the problem is coming from.

I fear I may have bought a dodgy bike and this could be the tip of the iceberg

Thanks

Tom

Tom,

Since the Pro is a bike made for full-on competition such as flinging about on rocks, slopping through mud and at times being submerged under water and yours is about 8 years old now, you may want to spend a little time getting things sorted out before writing it off.

When buying a used bike (any bike and especially one 8 years old) it's best to assume that it has had no maintenance whatsoever and start from the beginning. A new sparkplug properly gapped, cleaning of all electrical connections and grounds, throughly cleaning the carb and adjusting it when the bike is running, through cleaning of the airbox and filter, inspection and cleaning of the stator area, checking of the wheel-suspension-steering bearings, spokes, checking all fasteners, changing out all fluids etc. is a good way to start. Most present and future problems will be solved by proper maintenance and you will get to know your bike much better.

Jon