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About richt

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    Advanced Member

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    04 Gas Gas 250

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    Cheshire UK
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  1. richt

    Rear Shock Bump stop

    You don't need to do anything with the rebound screw until after you get the bottom mount off. The screw can only be removed afterwards. I didn't need to get it very hot it's more a case heating it quickly to expand the aluminium before the steel rod and it breaks the "loctite" on the threads. The o-ring on mine was okay but I changed it anyway.
  2. richt

    Rear Shock Bump stop

    No gas or oil came out ?
  3. If it still uses gear oil then keep a check on the breather near the front sprocket. it can only blow it out, leak it or burn it.
  4. The pre-Pro models ran 50:1 as the fuel mix lubed the main bearings. The GG has a few mistakes in it. Pro models use the gearbox oil to lubricate the main bearings so less is required in the fuel mix. I run mine at 70:1 with a good synthetic 2T oil and its never fouled a plug.
  5. I remove the liner and wash it with hair shampoo, If you intend to machine wash it then you should put it in a pillow case and tie it up, still gets washed but helps protect from getting damaged.
  6. richt

    Rear Shock Bump stop

    The damper screw on mine has always been wound fully out as well. I couldn't tell if my old rubber had ever been cut down but its compressed and gone rock hard. Exactly like you said "IS knackered" While the spring and the rubber were removed, I checked the damping was consistent through the total length off the stroke which was spot on.
  7. richt

    Rear Shock Bump stop

    I made a clamp to grip the shaft in the vice. I ended up using a bit heat on the aluminium because they have put loc-tite on the thread. Use a good spanner on the square section of the Ally mount and shock it loose then it unscrewed easily. (normal right hand thread) Also when the mount is off the damping adjuster screw can be removed to clean and lube it.
  8. I thought the Bump stop was looking a bit tatty but until I compared to a new one I realize it was long overdue! this was on a 2004 Sachs shock and probably the original rubber. Note! The picture is only a comparison not how the shock is reassembled the rubber is fitted the other way up.
  9. I have also done the same with my gear pedal. Give it a try, you might never fall off again to find out if it works? Strange though It hasn't stopped me falling off enough times to believe it works.
  10. If you have a Delorto carb (PHBL26), first try setting the fuel screw 3 to 3.1/2 turns out. Sounds like it could running weak or there's an air leak. Petroil mix ratio 60:1 ish. The crank bearings are lubed by the gearbox oil so you don't need much oil in the fuel. Does it smoke excessively? or consume gearbox oil? this could point to crank seals. lets hope not.
  11. I've done this for about 15 years and I also heat treat the levers to normalize them so they bend instead of breaking. I can't remember when I last broke one.
  12. They are to protect your hands when you catch trees doing Enduro, not to protect the levers.
  13. richt

    Rev3 Saws Through Boot

    I had this issue on my Gasser, I cut a piece of old oil bottle and fixed it to extend the existing chain guard. Only tried it as an experiment but has worked so well it's now a permanent fixture.?
  14. richt

    MX clothing

    The first go I had on a trials bike was with my enduro gear, MX pants with Knee guards and Alpine stars T8 boots. The Tech8 boots were far too restrictive, I still use MX pants, knee guards, Trials boots and an Airoh helmet.
  15. Yes those are the wires on your photo so you are already on the rainy setting. There is only a very subtle difference between the 2 ignition settings, One is intended for slippy conditions with a very slightly softer power band with slightly restricted top revs. The second one is just normal. The switch if fitted is only an open/closed switch, the 2 wires I mentioned are connected together for the softer one and just disconnected from each other for normal one. ?
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