Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by richt

  1. I think your best bet is to contact The Hell Team in Sydney, Have a look on their website "thehellteam.com" they list a lot of files for trialsbike owner and parts manuals. From what I looked at The oil is 5wt or 7.5wt, leaving an air gap of 130mm. (fully compressed and without the spring) Personally I use the heavier oil, but my forks are 40mm on a 2004 gasser. Hope this helps, Rick.
  2. There has been an upgrade of of the water pump, The Shaft, the Impellor and the bronze bush are all made from better materials. Water Pump information, Pro 2002~07: Beginning in 2004, there are three changes to the waterpump. The centre shaft has a new heat treatment. The part number remains the same. The impeller is made of a new material. The part number remains the same. The outer bushing (drain cap) is made of a new alloy. It has a much longer life than the original model. The new cap uses a “Torx” bit for removal, and installation. The original one used an Allen wrench. (See photo) The part number remains the same. New Old
  3. The fan on mine will turn on just as the top of the rad is too hot to touch, from a cold start its about 5-10 mins. You say Ran with cap off, can see coolant circulating, Were there any sign of bubbles? note the rad needs to be full to the brim, I've used a piece of clear hose that fits snug in the filer neck then positioned upright. Fill with coolant so you can see any bubbles rising just like when you bleed brakes.
  4. 36 is standard, I would wait an see if it still boils when you've fitted it. There shouldn't be any great pressure in the system unlees there's a problem like head O-rings or a crack somewhere in the castings. Carry out a check by filling the rad to the very top and running the engine with the rad cap off while looking for bubbles or even a fountain coming out of the filler neck. Its not easy to see if the head O-ring has dropped out while putting the head on but it is possible. Here are some engine specs: Engine size 250 280 300 CARBURADOR PHBL26BS VHST26BS VHST26BS Main jet 118 106 106 Jet needle position D36 - 3ª D48 - 4ª D48 - 4ª Throttle valve 60 55 55 Slow jet 35 S36 S36 Spraying jet 270K 272HH 272HH Passage jet 200 270 270 Level of the floats 12.3 mm 12,7 mm 12,7 mm Fuel screw 2.5 turns out 2.5 turns out 2.5 turns out Spark plug BPR5ES BPR5ES BPR5ES Gap of electrode 0.9 mm. 0.9 mm. 0.9 mm.
  5. Yes you do have to remove the flywheel to fit a weight.
  6. Yes that's correct. If you have the owners manual there are some mistakes in it! They quote figures from the pre-pro models like the petrol/oil ratio as 2% (50:1) Pro models run 1.5% (75:1) and Gear oil quantity as 550cc Pro models have a smaller gearbox and only need 350cc.
  7. Check the mixture screw on the carb. Standard carb is a Delorto and the screw is actually a fuel screw not an air screw and should be 2.1/2 to 3.1/2 turns out. Sparkplug (NGK) BPR5ES There are casting or stamped numbers on the head and barrel. The different sizes must be paired as the bore diameter is the only difference between them and the cylinder head inner O-ring size are the only variation. In your frame number will give the original engine size example VTRGG 3002 F055 1234 30= Engine size 300cc. or 28= 280cc. & 25= 250cc F= model year 2005
  8. richt

    Rear Shock Bump stop

    I got mine from a local dealer in the UK. but they are not showing it anymore on their website. My 04 250 has a Sachs rear shocker fitted but from memory I think the 06 Gassers have Ohlins rear shocks fitted and I don't know if any of the parts are compatible between them. It may be worth contacting https://trialendurodirect.com/ formerly the UK GasGas importer.
  9. Yep NGK BPR5ES is the correct plug Base gasket should be ok.
  10. I remember when I bought mine I rang Dave Cooper to ask exactly the same question. Its a great bit of kit, If you have roof rails on your FL then attach a strap from it to the handlebars and it really steadies it up.
  11. richt

    gasser heat issue

    Cleaned up well, it should run like a new bike. 43 degrees that's too hot to ride, Its 18 degrees today in UK. I've never felt that type of heat except when I worked in a power station it still wasn't as hot as 43 though but at least you could go outside to cool down. How far away is the forest fire from you? On a lighter note, Your work bench gives the impression you've been busy (just like mine) but I hope you have used correct the tools and not the hammer and grips to fix your Gasser🤣 Enjoy Canada day and be careful.
  12. richt

    gasser heat issue

    The piston and bore look ok. The inner O-ring looks very poor and I reckon it has leaked hot gas into the coolant. Its not so clear on the photo but the top surface of the cylinder looks burnt/pitted, I hope it will clean up well. It may be worth turning it upside down onto an sheet of Wet & Dry sandpaper on a flat surface and polish it. at worst it may need skimming. What is the condition of the cylinder head looking like?
  13. richt

    gasser heat issue

    How many times have you changed the oil since the first contamination to flush the bad stuff out? I'm hoping you only had it happen once and it 's just some residual coolant still trapped in there. After a miss-hap my bike was fully submerged in a 3 foot deep stream everything was full of water (Tank, Carb, Exhaust and Engine) It took about 4 oil changes to to flush it out. It looked like somebody had dumped a shopping trolley.
  14. richt

    gasser heat issue

    Excellent, Hope you get it sorted soon.
  15. richt

    gasser heat issue

    "Am I correct that the thermostat should read Open Line, no resistance at room temperature?" On my wiring diagram power from the generator to the fan is halted by the Thermostat which is open line or circuit not made. Open line is high resistance so no current can pass, When the thermostat gets to hot temp it should switch to closed line, circuit made and low resistance to allow current to the fan. Does this make sense?
  16. richt

    gasser heat issue

    Any excessive pressure in the coolant should blow out of the rad breather hose under the tank. Check that the hose is clear and not kinked. The only other place it can go is via the pump seal. Excess pressure in the coolant can be caused by a leaking cylinder head O-ring, can possibly be a result of overheated engine. Test! Fill the radiator to the brim, Run the engine without the rad cap and look for bubbles coming up. If there is then you know the higher pressure of the cylinder is getting into the coolant and need to replace the O-ring seals. The high pressure is more than the Rad cap or the Pump seal can hold. 40 degrees 🥵 in that heat I would expect the fan to be running most of the time. the fan on mine comes on just after when the radiator gets is hot to hold your thumb on the top.
  17. If you don't have a spare wheel on the back then you need the "Van / Motor Home Rack" I have one one my Yeti. and plenty of clearance between handlebar and back window.👍
  18. I've used evo-stick and it worked well. It is petrol based so is can be removed easily with petrol. Also I've used double sided tape its easier to feed under the edge of a sticker and press down firmly, then trim off the excess with a knife.
  19. The bike was about two months old. They replaced the generator, pickup, wiring loom and CDI for free.
  20. I had a CDI issue with an Enduro bike I was told there was no warranty for competition bikes, but if it was road registered which it was then there is 12 months warranty.
  21. Quite certain there are only 2 available; genuine GasGas and RQF. Both are made from Aluminium. Re-assuringly expensive.
  22. When you say a spanner has no room to turn are you using open jaw spanners? If so then I think you need to use ring spanners. or Combination spanners which are ring at one end and open jaw at the other.
  23. Confirmed the seal is correct. Some checks you can do; Run the engine without the rad cap on and see if any bubbles appear, if they do then you will be getting extra pressure in the cooling system and the water gets forced passed the pump seal. The Cyl-Head O-rings will need replacing. Make sure the rad cap breather is clear and the pipe is not kinked, when the water heats up the extra pressure can't vent out so again the water gets forced passed the pump seal.
  24. The bolts are just normal cap screws but if you have the spacer fitted they are slightly longer (5mm) than the standard ones for just the cover without the spacer. My bike use to have flywheel weight and because the spacer makes the cover overhang the sump guard, it had been hit on rocks which bent one of the screws and distorted the crank case. So I had to gently reshape the crank casing it to stop it rubbing on the flywheel. I don't use the weight anymore.
  25. The covers are all the same on all Pro models and there is next no clearance. so I'm not sure why you're hang trouble unless its distorted or something has been changed by a previous owner. I recommend you remove the threaded inserts. If they were to drop out they will destroy your electrics.
  • Create New...