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Your tensioner looks ok but you are missing the rubber pad that the chain slides over the frame. The part No is BT280212026

Too much oil increases the burn temp. Since I changed to 70:1 It's never fouled the plug.

My 04 250 runs great on 70:1 fully synthetic oil. Usually Putoline or Castrol.

You've done well there! hopefully you won't need to do it again. A club member was having trouble and pumped 500ml through it and still no brake. Turned out that he thought he should shake the bottle well before use! ?

Hi Venickey, Welcome to the forum. I would also like to say that there is nothing wrong with your English, it is very good.

Ah the one behind the magneto you might be able to change in situ. If the exhaust is smoking or if oil is coming out the breather pipe then you'll need to split the motor to change the crank main seals.

You will need to split the casings and remove the crank so you can change seals.

No harm in gettin a spare sightglass for the sake of £3 or £4. One of my days finished early when something smashed the glass.?

Just seen your photo and the tensioner block is upside down!! Swap it round immediately!! Having it that way the chain has no tension and actually not enough slack. As it is the chain is more likely to snap.

With the bike on a box type stand and the swingarm at its lowest. Adjust the snails till the chain has minimum tension ie the tensioner just in contact with the swingarm. This way the chain will always be tensioned but will never be too tight and the tensioner block will last longer.

The gasket is pretty useless the cover is too flexible to seal between the bolts. I have not got one on mine and its not been a problem. All the Gassers I have bought all had a 3mm hole at the bottom of the cover, Don't know if this is a mod people do or manufactured with one.

Squeaking at the same crank position and sounds like hard rubbing metal to metal, Have you got the spark plug out so you can rule out any compression force an just be spinning the crankshaft? and take force off the big end bearing see if the sound changes position or tone. Some rust on the crank flanges and could be rubbing on the crank cases though I cant see any rubbing marks on the crank.. Main bearings are lubed by the gear oil so if you have changed oil regularly I would lean towards the con rod bearings. But unfortunately I think this is going to be a full strip down. You said the air filter could have let in dust/debris, this would get into the crankcase and big/little end bearings. A clump of grit tightly lodged in somewhere could make this type of noise. Hopefully this could help direct you to the cause.

Take the plug out so it's easier to turn the motor by hand. The squeak is just as the motor comes to a stop so rotate it slowly an listen carefully.

I couldn't tell any difference with an Iridium plug. When engine is hot if it doesn't start 1st or 2nd kick I hold the throttle slightly open while kicking does the trick, had 3 Gassers and they all needed a good kicking. Also have some mates who could sometimes do with the same

It is normal to have some play in any bearing for lubrication. A bit of play in each linkage bearing added together and times the length of the swingin arm will = about 6mm.

Installing mousses is fun. Like fitting an inflated tyre onto the rim. They are quicker and easier than tubes if you know the technique.

Is it a bike or box trailer?

Yep that's the stuff from screwfix! I didn't get very technical with it. I just made sure each spoke nipple was sealed and then a thin layer over the well of the rim. Then fitted the rim band squeezing the air out at same time. Well this sounds more technical than squelching the rim band over the sticky stuff. Because it stays soft you should be able to adjust spoke tension without causing any leaks, where as silicon sealant will just tear up and peel off.

I used 'Plumbers Mait' under the rim tape and and it has lasted 4 years upto now without any pressure loss. only when I adjust the pressure to suit the conditions. It's a non-hardening sticky putty, water proof, but it can be removed completely if required. I first tried this stuff for an experiment and it has been the perfect fix for mine and my buddies. Did I mention cheap ? a tub cost me £4 and it has done 6 wheels and still got some left.

Black and the Orange go to the sun or rain switch, or if you don't have one fitted they can either be left unconnected or joined to each other so you can alternate between the 2 ignition mapping curves.

I like my Gasser but wouldn't change it because of these niggles. So just a few things here referring to the original post you may like to consider, try or ignore! I've used plastic bolts (number plate type) to hold the rear mudguard on and they break off and save the mudguard (successfully tested many times) Used different seal strips on the airbox lid though improved but not found perfect one. (still experimenting). Warm the rubber boot to soften it attach to the rear of the carb before attaching the carb to the forward inlet boot, you will wonder why you never did this way before it is much easier. Never broken a kickstart but when I found out how much they are I got a 2nd hand one in new con for a spare very cheap. Linkage bearings will always have some play in em as like all bearings need clearance for lubrication and to act like a bearing. It is much more noticeable because of the number of bearings and length of the swing arm magnify's this.

I had an 06, both the foot peg brackets broke off, apparently a known defect for this year. The steel was cracked during manufacture where it is folded and the proof was the crack was chromed inside. It was easy enough to have them welded back on. I have an 04 that has had a harder life and there is no evidence of any defects in that area.

Is the dip tube inside the aux tank fitted correctly? and if so its that one that should be connected to the main tank.

It says it has done 900,000km. That is a long way to go with no seat!

The black forks are normal, they were fitted to the 2006 models.